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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: BKK
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Hi,
I plan building a power amp using LM3875 for my OPA3124 pre (ESP88). I wonder if 1). Can the LM3875 and big PS (10,000+1500FC+0.1 per rail) be in the same board? ( One tranny 24-0-24 240VA per channel) 2). Will it hurt from the current ripple can cause hum or ground problem? 3). Will having 1 Ohm res between the main ground and the signal ground help? 4) Will having 0.1 Ohm 5 W in series between the 10,000 cap and 1,500 cap help? 5). Is the (10,000+1,500FC) overkilled, or (4,700 + 1,500FC) per rail is sufficient? Thanks in advance! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Earth
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1). Can the LM3875 and big PS (10,000+1500FC+0.1 per rail) be in the same board? ( One tranny 24-0-24 240VA per channel)
Nina>> That's fine. Dual mono config. 2). Will it hurt from the current ripple can cause hum or ground problem? 3). Will having 1 Ohm res between the main ground and the signal ground help? Nina>> 1 Ohm is too small for that current. 100 Ohm 1W should be better, I think. ( I saw on the Leach amp, they use ~ 82 Ohm). 4) Will having 0.1 Ohm 5 W in series between the 10,000 cap and 1,500 cap help? Nina>> Don't know. May be Carlos, Nuuk and people here can answer you this question. 5). Is the (10,000+1,500FC) overkilled, or (4,700 + 1,500FC) per rail is sufficient? Nina>> According to Nelson Pass's article, The bigger the better. Big capacitors hold more charge. So, 10,000 is better if you already have/can affort it. Carlos, in this case, do we really needs both RC ( the 0.1R one orginally at PS, and the 0.47R near the clip) ???
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Hudiksvall
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Search for "Mr Ed" , Russ White did a PCB layout (and built it) with LM3886 and onboard PSU (10000uF+220uF i think) and he had a 1ohm resistor i think..
I'm gonna build one to like "Mr ED" but with MUR860 diodes instead, like this. http://www.ettnet.se/~tobias/diy/lm3..._ed_copy_1.jpg |
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#4 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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Quote:
You need high capacitance after the resistor. I suggest 20,000uF or more. Check my schematic. Everything is possible to make on a single board, but it may not be practical. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Prague,Czech Republic
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Why " not practical ", Carlos ? Look at my PCB - any problems with wiring, no hum, easy assembling... Yes, no space for own experiments, it is " problem "...
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: BKK
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Nina: Thanks for your comment. I would try the 4,700+1,500 per rail first, and keep four of my 10,000UF cap for other projects
tobias_svensk: I did search and look for a member named Mr Ed but in vain. Could you hint me more? BTW, thanks for the pic. THAT is what in my mind now ( except mine will be point-2-point on vero board, and the chip is in flat position, because I cannot make the PCB -___-" ) Carlos: How about the RC(s)? Do we still need both of them even they are on the same board? Upupa Epops : I cannot find your PCB on the posts. Could you share us your PCB and experience? Thanks! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Hudiksvall
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methar, it was a member called Russ White and the PCB was called "Mr ED"
My NI chipamp Mark-II - Mr. Ed :) |
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#8 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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Quote:
If you put diodes, 4,700uF + 1R + 2~3x10,000uF caps on the amp board it will be a big PCB, in some cases not practical to assemble on a chassis/heatsink. It can be made, of course. Btw I have no hum too. But I understand what you mean, two channels on one board is less likely to give hum problems if you don't know how to wire things properly. |
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#9 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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Quote:
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