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#111 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: .
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Ok this is as optimised as I can get it. there is space for some small caps closer to the chip and my two larger caps are also indicated.
I always allow for a clamp mounting method for the LM3886 so i had to move the components away a bit. this method also allows for additional cooling |
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#112 | ||
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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Quote:
I prefer this arrangement to the one you have on the next post, btw. Quote:
Now move the 100uF cap (C11) to pin 4 too. I know, that means some changes there. Sorry to give you so much work.
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#113 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rock Ridge
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Rudi-
you might have more flexibility if you use a smaller diameter for youe 220uF caps. We are using 50V caps there that are only 10mm and can get them much tighter to the 3886 chip. Also, the 5mm Wimas for the 100nF allow good access to the chip. You can also add another 100nF across the rails.
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Twisted Pear Audio |
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#114 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: .
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Carlos, do you think I am Houdini
well I see what i can do Brian i will fit some smaller ones. i did allow for 13mm cappies. i tried the one accross the rails but i prefer it without. I know it sounds strange but on recommendation from Mauro i removed as much bypass caps (also on the diodes). and HEY it sounds better. but apparently this is ONLY the case with very fast diodes, so please do not remove just because i found a difference (by the way it was more open and also a beeper soundstage)I am only indicating what is needed, and allowing space for the rest. and also keeping my personal needs in consideration, so what is the verdict. shall we stop the design once i have managed to fit the 100uf onto pin 4 anybody that wants to build the amp a"s is" please go ahead. it really is stable now and i can't get it to clip untill i have reached 56W and believe me it is LOAD in my system is probably the full 68W but i still need to test that. so that is still on my to do list there is a couple of other test that Mauro recommended and i will be doing them soon. |
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#115 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: .
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just decided. we are NOT going for the pin 4 option. it makes all other tracks to long . if somebody feels that by having the 100uf at pin 4 I have found a great deal of real estate under the board that is not used
so any other ideas before i go and enjoy my holiday and the hot sun outside
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#116 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: .
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Carlos, which one do you prefer. the first post or the second. one. on the second i have all the tracks as short as possible and the reg's are also much closer. the neatness factor did suffer a bit.
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#117 | |||
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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Quote:
Let them be as optional if you want, but just don't use them. Quote:
I would use the 100uF cap under the board, near pin4, and leave it's original position empty. Quote:
And btw as you are using 1k resistors before the regs (the same value as for the zeners, no?), why not take advantage of that and use a bigger cap just before the regs? Can you fit something around 100uF? You are making an RC filter there. |
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#118 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: .
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OK you have the option of the extra caps for the RC filter. then I will allow more holes for smaller caps closer to the Lm3886
the track length form the 100uf + to pin 7 and the track length form the 100uf - to pin 4 is almost the same |
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#119 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: .
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I have changed the layout slightly. i have included space for almost all size caps next to the LM3886 and also the option to have a RC filter on the LM318 power supply (it might, it might not work for you....but it is there for you to try) I think I'll finalize the board unless there is any other suggestions and give you all the final PDF
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#120 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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Quote:
Just a side note for those who will build this amp, fill the holes of the unused caps with solder. You can go on holidays now, Rudi.
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