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Old 12th December 2005, 06:51 PM   #101
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Hi Ron

the only additional part is the extra bypass caps 100nf. there is alot of them. then the 4 x main caps. nowadays these are cheap. i prefer the Sprague seeing that are very good quality. then there is the 16 xMUR860

now i know that the original recommendation is Multilayer ceramics. but i have used polystyrene, and it does not sound as choked as the Multilayers. (and that is just my experience) I am not aware of any other ill effects. but there could be such issues but i have not experienced them

just another thought. the board should measure 175mm x 150 mm when printed.

this is two stereo boards. you can chop in half if you like once you etched them or just use the two guide lines as indicated

Mauro recommends that you keep the 12V , so go for that with 1k resistors

Cheers
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Old 12th December 2005, 07:06 PM   #102
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Rudi, incidentally, what program do you use to do your boards? I just like the look and smoothness (and resolution) of that Copper PDF so much compared to the ones I have made.

Thanks,

Ron
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Old 12th December 2005, 07:13 PM   #103
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Hi Ron

I use Sprint Layout 4.0, very easy to use and it is very cheap.
Then I use PDF995 to make the PDF

here is a slightly improved version of the X

new feature
added a LED for ON and one of OFF speaker state.
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Old 12th December 2005, 07:15 PM   #104
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and here is the component side.

you have to use A4 as a paper size. with no scaling
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Old 12th December 2005, 07:28 PM   #105
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Thank you very much. Will do. What are the parts marked as "Bridge"? Are those just low resistance jumpers, as in the original Rev.C?

- Ron

P.S. Carlos, where can I go to learn all about the snubbers you recommend. I admittedly know nothing about them and am interested in how they work. Thanks!
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Old 12th December 2005, 07:30 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally posted by ron.eddy
Thank you very much. Will do. What are the parts marked as "Bridge"? Are those just low resistance jumpers, as in the original Rev.C?

- Ron

correct you get 0 Ohm "resitors" and it looks much neater. please take notice of the two jumber under the input cap and under the relay
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Old 12th December 2005, 07:33 PM   #107
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Yea, I see those, much better now that they are in red

- Ron
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Old 12th December 2005, 08:16 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally posted by ron.eddy
P.S. Carlos, where can I go to learn all about the snubbers you recommend. I admittedly know nothing about them and am interested in how they work. Thanks!
Search this forum.
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Old 12th December 2005, 08:48 PM   #109
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Cool Let's be constructive

Quote:
Originally posted by rudi
and here is the component side.
I can't be quiet.
Rudi, there's a lot of space around those 220uF caps, so why not position them as close as possible to the LM3886, and with similar distances?
You can relocate that 1k resistor easily by rotating it by 90 and moving it a little to the right.
One thing I also don't like is the position of those 100uF electrolythics around the LM318 op-amp, but that means a lot of work to make there.
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Old 14th December 2005, 05:14 AM   #110
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Hi Carlos

something like this. this means i will have to redo my boards well that is not really a problem

I moved the 100nf for negative to pin 4 and implemented a ground through the middle of the LM318

I will have to get some low profile low ESR caps because i like to clamp the chip to the heatsink
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