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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: mem
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Some pics for you
http://img9.imageshack.us/my.php?image=amp87vq.jpg http://img275.imageshack.us/my.php?image=amp0159rw.jpg (It's a mess, I know) http://img60.imageshack.us/my.php?image=amp0ms.jpg It's an lm3886 amplifier, I got it from chipamp.com, one of Brians. It sounds amazing, and I'm shocked that this sounds better then my dads $600 home theatre receiver. That heatsink is a bit tiny, but I'm not pushing the amp to hard so it works. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Nice going there....
Why not extend one of the LEDs with some wire and put it through the faceplate? How did you manage to dril holes through the PC heatsink? |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: mem
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That was a real challange dude, the holes are really short, but deep enough to hold the screw and the bolt in place. I just used a regular screw driver, it took alot of force, and I even lost 1 bit. I am thinking about pulling out that power LED, thanks.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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While you are at it, I would move the power button to the front too, unless you plan to mostly leave the amp on... It gets inconvenient very quickly to have to feel around the back for a switch... I love the colour on that case too... looks so clean.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: mem
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Funny that you say that, originally I really wanted that power switch in the front, but with the toroid in place along with the rectifier board I did'nt have enough room for it, so I had to put it in the back. I could reposition the toroid, and rectifier, but with all that wire in place I just think it would be real inconveniant. Guess I'll have to think in advance before the next project. That's a really small case, and orienting things was hard, but in the end I like my amp small. Oh btw, thanks for the compliment, it's a hmmond chassis made of plastic.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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I think you can pull it off if you move the toroid an inch or so to the back (where the switch used to be, lol).
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Nice small amplifier box. I'd advise to put some isolation over the mains connections! If one of the 110/230V wires gets loose it might touch the speaker connectors. Use some shrinking housings (don't know the english name, we would say krimpkous here
).Fedde
__________________
http://www.fedde.nu, gainclone and non-oversampling DAC audio projects and kits... |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Which in my homelanguage translates as "shrink socks".
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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Nice !
The PSU caps look "heavy duty". Did you use a snuberized PSU ? Also, maybe if you get some hisss or hum noise, you can twist the input wires to shield them from EMI/RFI. Their path is quite long from the input to the pot and to the amps. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cologne
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Quote:
Mick |
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