Home made PCB's - Page 2

carlosfm · 13th November 2005, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by paologatto
I use the inkjet photo glossy paper for the toner transfer (printed with laser printer!). It works fine.

That's what I use too.

Christer · 13th November 2005, 07:05 PM

I use the toner transfer method too, but I have found it to be very sensitive to the type of photo paper. I had to try many types before I found one that worked well. Most of them either wouldn't transfer well or the paper stuck too hard to the PCB after transfer. I eventually settled on a very cheap paper, which turned out best.

If you have problem with this method, have patience and try a few different types of papers. Use the same piece of PCB for the experiments. you don't have to etch it when you are experimenting with papers. After each transfer, just scrub off all paper and toner and try the next paper, or the same again, using different temperature and pressure.

demons_wing · 14th November 2005, 01:02 PM

toner transfer is what i have been using so far..its not bad but its a hassle getting the paper off after..i was contemplating using photo resist board with UV light for a much cleaner look, BUT these are so expensive here in Oz..anybody know any cheap suppliers of photoresist boards??

Christer · 14th November 2005, 01:15 PM

You don't have to buy prepared boards. They sell photoresist in spray cans too.

timpert · 14th November 2005, 03:53 PM

Hello everyone,

After reading a lot, this is my first post on DIYaudio. I have been experimenting a lot with homemade PCB's and I found it is not worth the hassle. I ended up buying a non-profit licence for Eagle PCB from Cadsoft. It took a while to get familiar with the program, and generally learning the trade of decent PCB design, but I found it to be well worth the time and effort. The completed layout can be emailed to a boardhouse. Olimex has very competitive prices, for $33 you have a double sided Euro PCB with metallized via's, solder mask on both sides and a component print (silkscreen). A single side board with the same features costs about $26. The results are superior to anything you can make at home, and additionally, you don't have to mess with chemicals that can stain your skin, clothing of furniture.

It took me a while to realize this, but unless you really enjoy pattern transfer, etching, drilling and mucking around with chemicals, having them made professionally is the better way IMHO. The added bonus is that a double sided PCB now enters the realm of possibilities.

Regards,
Jurgen

demons_wing · 14th November 2005, 10:43 PM

where can you buy resist in spray cans?..i know they were available a few years back even, BUT i just cannot find them here in australia

Christer · 14th November 2005, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by demons_wing
where can you buy resist in spray cans?..i know they were available a few years back even, BUT i just cannot find them here in australia

Well, I obviously don't know where to get it in Australia. However, the brand they sell here is the British made Electrolube. Checking their site, it seem they don't have a sales office in Australia though. But there ought to be some other brand available, I think. Hope the other australians here can help you.

demons_wing · 15th November 2005, 03:50 AM

cheers christer..thanx for the info mate..ill see what i can find..maybe the oz's round here can drop a word or 4 lol

AudioFreak · 15th November 2005, 04:03 AM

In Australia check out Jaycar, Altronics, Dick Smith, RS Components and Farnell but not always in that order.

TwoSpoons · 15th November 2005, 04:05 AM

We've built up quite a good system here for Press'n'Peel.

Its a temperature controlled hotplate (old electric frypan thingy sanded dead flat), attached to a vacuum pump, with a silicone baking sheet that seals over the top. You heat the hotplate (130C works for us), lay on a sandwich of cloth / PnP+laminate / cloth, then add the silicone sheet and turn on the vacuum! The vacuum gives a nice even 15 pounds / sq.in. over the whole board. When the heat comes through the silicone (to about 90C) the board is cooked. Then its peel and etch as usual.

We regularly use this for making doublesided Kapton flex PCBs with 10 mil track / space (because its way faster and way cheaper than commercial prototypes).

Just last week I had a crack at a paste stencil, using thin brass sheet. It worked, but needs some refining.

14th November 2005, 03:53 PM	#15
timpert diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Netherlands	Another suggestion Hello everyone, After reading a lot, this is my first post on DIYaudio. I have been experimenting a lot with homemade PCB's and I found it is not worth the hassle. I ended up buying a non-profit licence for Eagle PCB from Cadsoft. It took a while to get familiar with the program, and generally learning the trade of decent PCB design, but I found it to be well worth the time and effort. The completed layout can be emailed to a boardhouse. Olimex has very competitive prices, for $33 you have a double sided Euro PCB with metallized via's, solder mask on both sides and a component print (silkscreen). A single side board with the same features costs about $26. The results are superior to anything you can make at home, and additionally, you don't have to mess with chemicals that can stain your skin, clothing of furniture. It took me a while to realize this, but unless you really enjoy pattern transfer, etching, drilling and mucking around with chemicals, having them made professionally is the better way IMHO. The added bonus is that a double sided PCB now enters the realm of possibilities. Regards, Jurgen

15th November 2005, 04:03 AM	#19
AudioFreak Warp Engineer On Holiday Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Queensland, Australia	In Australia check out Jaycar, Altronics, Dick Smith, RS Components and Farnell but not always in that order. __________________ - Dan

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13th November 2005, 07:05 PM	#12
Christer diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Sweden	I use the toner transfer method too, but I have found it to be very sensitive to the type of photo paper. I had to try many types before I found one that worked well. Most of them either wouldn't transfer well or the paper stuck too hard to the PCB after transfer. I eventually settled on a very cheap paper, which turned out best. If you have problem with this method, have patience and try a few different types of papers. Use the same piece of PCB for the experiments. you don't have to etch it when you are experimenting with papers. After each transfer, just scrub off all paper and toner and try the next paper, or the same again, using different temperature and pressure.

14th November 2005, 01:02 PM	#13
demons_wing diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: BC	toner transfer is what i have been using so far..its not bad but its a hassle getting the paper off after..i was contemplating using photo resist board with UV light for a much cleaner look, BUT these are so expensive here in Oz..anybody know any cheap suppliers of photoresist boards??

14th November 2005, 01:15 PM	#14
Christer diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Sweden	You don't have to buy prepared boards. They sell photoresist in spray cans too.

14th November 2005, 10:43 PM	#16
demons_wing diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: BC	where can you buy resist in spray cans?..i know they were available a few years back even, BUT i just cannot find them here in australia

15th November 2005, 03:50 AM	#18
demons_wing diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: BC	cheers christer..thanx for the info mate..ill see what i can find..maybe the oz's round here can drop a word or 4 lol

15th November 2005, 04:05 AM	#20
TwoSpoons diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	We've built up quite a good system here for Press'n'Peel. Its a temperature controlled hotplate (old electric frypan thingy sanded dead flat), attached to a vacuum pump, with a silicone baking sheet that seals over the top. You heat the hotplate (130C works for us), lay on a sandwich of cloth / PnP+laminate / cloth, then add the silicone sheet and turn on the vacuum! The vacuum gives a nice even 15 pounds / sq.in. over the whole board. When the heat comes through the silicone (to about 90C) the board is cooked. Then its peel and etch as usual. We regularly use this for making doublesided Kapton flex PCBs with 10 mil track / space (because its way faster and way cheaper than commercial prototypes). Just last week I had a crack at a paste stencil, using thin brass sheet. It worked, but needs some refining.

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