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Old 5th October 2005, 04:43 AM   #11
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Originally posted by demogorgon
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fluorinert?
yeah, thats cheap.. real cheap..

for your test go for de-ionized water..

Are you mad? If you use de-ionized water, it'll likely eat the hell out of the metal parts and if that doesn't kill it, the water will still conduct electricity and short out. Mineral oil is the only cheap and safe way to go.
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Old 5th October 2005, 06:48 AM   #12
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You would still need a heatsink to draw the heat away from the GC into the surrounding liquid better. Maybe a much smaller one, but you would still need one.

Also, I played around with my multimeter, and noticed that Water and Peroxide conduct good, 1-10K ohms, but 91% Alcohol hardly gets a reading on my meter. My meter reads up to 30Megohm and I had to have the prongs almost touching to get readings. Lowest I got was 15 Megohm before prongs touch.

I would think that submerging a GC with a small heatsink in Alcohol would do the trick.
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Old 5th October 2005, 06:57 AM   #13
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Mineral oil doesn't conduct heat well enough, actually the part may even become heat saturated. Dip your hand in a vat of hot oil, enough to cause severe burns, now rub baby oil on it and tell me how cool it is, lol... Polo..
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Old 5th October 2005, 07:10 AM   #14
Nordic is offline Nordic  South Africa
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Dip your hand in a vat of hot oil, enough to cause severe burns, now rub baby oil on it and tell me how cool it is, lol... Polo..

Something gives me the idea you allready did this....
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Old 5th October 2005, 07:11 AM   #15
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Old 5th October 2005, 07:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by JWFokker



Are you mad? If you use de-ionized water, it'll likely eat the hell out of the metal parts and if that doesn't kill it, the water will still conduct electricity and short out. Mineral oil is the only cheap and safe way to go.
deionized water dont conduct.. there is nothing in it to conduct, and eat up the metal?
my computer waterblocks are holding on just fine after two years of using the stuff..
for a tast it'l work just fine.
it did when i submerged my old computer in the stuff to see if it was anything to shout hourray for.. not that it was anyways, didnt come over 2ghz on my xp1700 that does 2.3 on air. but back to topic..
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Old 5th October 2005, 08:51 PM   #17
Variac is offline Variac  United States
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It eats up the metal to a point- a point where it will then conduct-because it is then ionized. So why bother with deionized.
The fluid coolinfg of amps has been discussed a LOT in various threads and can be found by searching
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Old 6th October 2005, 05:08 AM   #18
lgreen is offline lgreen  United States
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Default do it!

fluid cooling is different from actually submerging the amp in a liquid. I've not seen that done before, so I would like to see you try.

Kind of the opposite, but after reading about how certain dialetrics were "almost" as good as a vacuum, my idea was to vacuum seal or evacuate a cable or preamp.
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Old 6th October 2005, 06:35 AM   #19
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So far electrical things may be in oil but I have never heard about electronics in water of the purpose of cooling. I'll guess time will tell and give us the answers.
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Old 6th October 2005, 11:53 AM   #20
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Hmmm. Liquid cooled amps?

http://www.vongaylordaudio.com/product_html/prouni.htm

I would say if you can't afford the flourinert (isn't it $300/gallon?), mineral oil is the way to go. There have been countless overlcockers who've submerged their machines in mineral oil for cooling experiments.

Most of the rigs that I've seen put the components in a container and fill it with mineral oil. They then place the container and oil combination inside the refridgerator. The oil aids heat transfer and also keeps condensation from forming on any of the components.
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