Case idea to make you resin-ate - Page 2

Nordic · 20th September 2005, 06:31 PM

Looks like alot of work, compared to just slowly filling a mold with a bit a resin for a base, let it dry, stick your things in, and top up with more resin, Spray can caps work well for making cylinders... in fact thats what we used in school... lol but that was 20 years ago...

P.S. I c't see any way of doing this without adding at least one LED :P

theAnonymous1 · 20th September 2005, 06:47 PM

If you use anything other than casting resin, like quick set epoxy, you will probably end up with tons of air bubbles in the mix because most of them gas out while they set. Quick epoxy can also get VERY hot when it sets, and the more of it you use the more heat it will produce.

Bearman · 20th September 2005, 08:34 PM

Yes, Casting Resin is what you are looking for. Here's a link for the type of material.

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=75&

BrianDonegan · 21st September 2005, 03:04 AM

I suspect that this may cause a lot of heat buildup in the chip, as even though the base side it attached to the heatsink, the other side it now well insulated, contining the heat in the chip.

It would be cool if it works. Interested in the outcome.

Bearman · 21st September 2005, 06:15 AM

That's what I was thinking also Brian.

Plastics actually insulate and heatsinks work on airflow principal and without that...... Well, I have a feeling your gonna be toast.

Good luck though!

Nordic · 21st September 2005, 09:36 AM

Well consider that the very IC case is constructed of photocatalystic resin, I think the Resin housing would just become an extention of the IC in terms of heat distribution etc...

Also note that Heatsink side of chip will be exposed and connected to a heatsink... Been thinking of using a pc heatsink as that would allow the ability to add low RPM fans if needed.

neutron7 · 22nd September 2005, 03:19 AM

if you have anything like a zobel on there which might have a resistor or other component that needs to dissipate heat, make sure to use a larger wattage than you would for free-air because the heat has nowhere to go except out the wires of the resistors, and its not like you can just de-solder them if it is wrong.

21st September 2005, 03:04 AM	#14
BrianDonegan diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Rock Ridge	I suspect that this may cause a lot of heat buildup in the chip, as even though the base side it attached to the heatsink, the other side it now well insulated, contining the heat in the chip. It would be cool if it works. Interested in the outcome. __________________ Twisted Pear Audio

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20th September 2005, 06:31 PM	#11
Nordic diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2005	Looks like alot of work, compared to just slowly filling a mold with a bit a resin for a base, let it dry, stick your things in, and top up with more resin, Spray can caps work well for making cylinders... in fact thats what we used in school... lol but that was 20 years ago... P.S. I c't see any way of doing this without adding at least one LED :P

20th September 2005, 06:47 PM	#12
theAnonymous1 diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Anonymityville	If you use anything other than casting resin, like quick set epoxy, you will probably end up with tons of air bubbles in the mix because most of them gas out while they set. Quick epoxy can also get VERY hot when it sets, and the more of it you use the more heat it will produce.

20th September 2005, 08:34 PM	#13
Bearman diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utah	Yes, Casting Resin is what you are looking for. Here's a link for the type of material. http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=75&

21st September 2005, 06:15 AM	#15
Bearman diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utah	That's what I was thinking also Brian. Plastics actually insulate and heatsinks work on airflow principal and without that...... Well, I have a feeling your gonna be toast. Good luck though!

21st September 2005, 09:36 AM	#16
Nordic diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2005	Well consider that the very IC case is constructed of photocatalystic resin, I think the Resin housing would just become an extention of the IC in terms of heat distribution etc... Also note that Heatsink side of chip will be exposed and connected to a heatsink... Been thinking of using a pc heatsink as that would allow the ability to add low RPM fans if needed.

22nd September 2005, 03:19 AM	#17
neutron7 diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Toronto Canada	if you have anything like a zobel on there which might have a resistor or other component that needs to dissipate heat, make sure to use a larger wattage than you would for free-air because the heat has nowhere to go except out the wires of the resistors, and its not like you can just de-solder them if it is wrong.

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