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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Vilnius
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200W trafos, 10mF capacitors, non-inverting configuration dual stereo.
Intended for bi-amping, hence the small heatsinks. The case is actually bottom-up in the pictures, it's an old pc case from some ancient cluster or smth (no openings in the front panel)
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Vilnius
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another pic
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Vilnius
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and another
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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That's a neat idea putting the rectifier bridges on the caps!
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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I like it. I've been planning on using some Copper computer heatsinks myself.. Those look like they're for a Pentium Pro or maybe a socket A chip?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Vilnius
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Nuuk: yeah, neat and very compact
motherone: yep, these are Socket A heatsinks. Got them from a local supplier for about 3$ each and they even had fans! Though they were very noisy and as these heatsinks proved to be quite effective up to about 50W output power, I decided to get rid of fans altogether.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: UK, bristol
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I like the zero tolerance of pcb/strip board.
This must limit the choice of components based on physical size. Could you give a rundown of the amp components for those of us who can't yet tell a capacitor from a resistor. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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Quote:
Lucky you! I've been looking for copper socket-A coolers, but haven't been able to locate a deal like that. Most of the suppliers out there will charge you more for the shipping than the heatsinks cost! You'd think there'd be some good places to get stuff like that here in Seattle, but I must always miss the sales where they clear them out
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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One thing that comes to mind is have you thought about using thermal epoxy to mount the chips to the heatsinks? It'd be a nice, no-screw method to do it. Might be worth it once you verify that the amp works, and assuming all the heatsinks are isolated from each other and the chassis.
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#10 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Vilnius
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Quote:
Quote:
Anyway I will use screws for this project as these heatsinks are a bit small (+-35V supply) and a good physical contact with the case could provide additional heasinking which is important as I'm not planning to put any fans there. Attached a closeup
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