|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Chip Amps Amplifiers based on integrated circuits |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Toronto
|
I have spent an hour or so going through posts and i cant seem to get a handle on size and such. So here is a straight question.
Is it possible to have chip amps 'inside' sealed enclosures to make active speakers or do they have to be exposed somewhere.
__________________
Persistence is better then intelligence. Unless persistence kills you. |
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Sure, the amp itself can be inside a sealed enclosure, but you will want to make sure you have adequate heatsinking. One good way to do this is to make the heatsink itegral with your design is a way that the fins are exposed to the outside air.
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Toronto
|
I can make cutsto fit it. the enclosures are already made. I am trying to get back money from my initial exburant spending spree. I have read all over this forum that chip amps are as good as any store bought SS amps available until you get into the big buck stuff. SO if i can pawn off some stuff for cash back so i can DEQX then that would be fantastic.
I want to go active on all the speakers, that way all i need outside is a pre amp and crossover, which i seem to already have top part is morel MW166 with a Hi-Vi ribbon RT8II and then there is a middle 8 inch for mid bass in its own enclosure. and the bottoms are a pair of enclosures containing 2 D10.8 10 inch subs each. Which i will obviously have to plate amp. But will the chip amps produce enough juice for the mid bass ? I know it will be enough for midrange and tweeter.
__________________
Persistence is better then intelligence. Unless persistence kills you. |
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
i had at one time thought of making a small box that would house the amp and power supply. this box would attach to the back of a speaker, over the speaker terminals, thus not altering the volume of the speaker, and allowing it to be free to "breathe".
if you had an enclosure that was slim enough, it wouldnt change the overall depth of the speaker much at all. or, if you wanna be super cool, build speaker stands with amps built in. a power cord comes out the bottom and little pig-tail leads come out at the top and connect to the speaker. you would have plenty of real estate to build whatever inside the stand, not to mention sufficient cooling. |
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Toronto
|
Unfortunately i wont have stands. Although that sounds like a great idea. I have three enclosures that stack. That way if something is off or badly built i only have to do a new design for that enclosure. Strictly modular baby. Bass Mid-bass Mid-High.
__________________
Persistence is better then intelligence. Unless persistence kills you. |
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Behind you
|
Amps inside the enclosure are ideal, since you can then use extremely short wires to the speakers, effectively eliminating any effects they may have.
__________________
https://mrevil.asvachin.eu/ |
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Just as long as you have decent signal wires, personally I would go with speaker wire instead of expensive long runs of RCAs
__________________
Two little mice fell in a bucket of cream. The first mouse quickly gave up and drowned. The second mouse, wouldn't quit. He struggled so hard that eventually he churned that cream into butter and crawled out. |
|
|
|
#8 | ||
|
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
|
Quote:
And you can even avoid speaker terminals, which are a bunch of unuseless metal. The amp can be on an isolated compartment, located on the bottom of the speaker. The wiring is internal, soldered on the amp and on the drive units. Quote:
No, let me put it this way: you don't need expensive interconnects. ![]() It is much better to have as short as possible speaker cables. |
||
|
|
|
#9 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Toronto
|
You guys are forgetting about heat ?
I wont be using 5 watt amps guys. the top amp for the mid highs is at least 25 watts the mid bass surely has to be more then that for any reasonable amount of output and 'oooomph' and the plate amps are like 350 for the subs. higher frequencies require less power i know but still, 5 watts wont really do it for me. SO attaching them to the speaker itslef in a sealed enclosure just dosent seem practical to dumb old me .
__________________
Persistence is better then intelligence. Unless persistence kills you. |
|
|
|
#10 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Behind you
|
It's quite practical to use a heatsink as part of or even all of one side of the box. Or, as has been mentioned already, put all the electronics in a self-contained enclosure attached to the speaker enclosure.
__________________
https://mrevil.asvachin.eu/ |
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Best DAC kit for price available ??? | JinMTVT | Digital Source | 28 | 27th July 2007 08:38 PM |
| price ... | tomtt | Analogue Source | 4 | 26th June 2007 05:32 AM |
| The Price of NON-DIY.. | ScottG | Multi-Way | 59 | 23rd June 2005 12:54 AM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.36646 seconds (25.61% PHP - 74.39% MySQL) with 10 queries |