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Old 16th June 2005, 05:10 PM   #41
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
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postpunk, if you do it right a LM3886 (like my designs) is totally click and thump free so if you do have problems AND has made the connection of the LM3886 right including the mute, then you have bumps coming from the preamp or you get a switch-off transient from the mains switch which (the transient) is coupled through the transformer and/or the wiring. A neat and tidy wiring may have it's advantages. One hint is to separate the mains circuitry with the secondary as much as possible.
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Old 16th June 2005, 05:26 PM   #42
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Nuuk,

There is a typo in you webpage. You say "Of course, the answer is to power up your power amplifier first" when you should say "Of course, the answer is to power up your pre amplifier first".

Also, you have IN4001 instead of 1N4001 for the Diode type.

-d
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Old 16th June 2005, 06:04 PM   #43
Nuuk is offline Nuuk  United Kingdom
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Quote:
There is a typo in you webpage. You say "Of course, the answer is to power up your power amplifier first" when you should say "Of course, the answer is to power up your pre amplifier first".
Thaks D, and well spotted! I have now corrected those mistakes.
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Old 16th June 2005, 08:05 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally posted by peranders
You must also consider the load in th other end. If it is 10 kohms 68 or 168 ohms will make not much difference but if you have 68 ohms, this will be enough I think for current limiting at startup.

Did you check how I have done my muting?
It depends.
If it's a standalone preamp it can make quite an audible difference.
Do you care? It seems you don't.
I do.
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Old 16th June 2005, 09:06 PM   #45
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
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I love your attitude Carlos. ... so your solution is...?
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Old 16th June 2005, 10:19 PM   #46
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Originally posted by peranders
I love your attitude Carlos. ... so your solution is...?
... a couple of seconds (2...3) doesn't matter.
68R is fine, and it could be lower.

Btw those snubber guidelines (link on your footer) are not right.
Why do you insist?
It beats me...
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Old 17th June 2005, 03:16 AM   #47
Franz G is offline Franz G  Switzerland
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Hi Nuuk

You wrote in your homepage:

Quote:
I'm not sure who to credit for this original idea so i can only say that it is not mine! But it is a clever idea as it does not involve adding anything extra (like a switch or relay) in the signal path. If you use the same power supply that you use for the buffers, then all you need are seven components (including the PCB) to deal with both channels.
Why are you not sure about the originator of the idea? My name is clearly stated in your first posting in this thread, so don't worry to mention me!

BTW: A nice idea is to connect a "power up" LED in parallel to the relay (for example a green LED).

And another LED (for example a red LED) between ground an pin 3, as there is a voltage during the delay.

This way, the red one is showing you the delay is working, the green shows operational status.

Have fun!
Franz
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Old 17th June 2005, 08:57 AM   #48
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Hi Franz,

Yes, I know it was you who did that diagram but I had seen the idea on this forum a long time before you put your diagram in another thread. So I didn't want to credit you with the idea and risk offending somebody else!

This can be a tricky place to avoid offending somebody and hope that, so far, I have steered a safe course!
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Old 17th June 2005, 10:15 AM   #49
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
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Off toipic:

Quote:
Originally posted by carlosfm
Btw those snubber guidelines (link on your footer) are not right.
I'll consider it accurate until somebody prove me wrong and nobody has done that yet. Feel free to develop what is wrong.
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Old 17th June 2005, 12:12 PM   #50
Franz G is offline Franz G  Switzerland
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Hi Nuuk

Sorry, it is not so important.

The idea to ground the input of an solid state power amp for delay is old and not born in this forum.

And the schematics you used, is originating from me, not my invention too, I agree, just the result of reading the datasheet of timer chips and implementing it.

Franz
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