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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: near Milano , Italy
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I've just completed my second gainclone - the first was a VBIGC with LM3875 - with LM3886.
This one is regulated (LM338) and uses the OPA627 as buffer 'a la Carlos'. No pot, star ground in the middle point of a thick wire that joins the gnd of the amp boards. The problem is that if I switch lamps in my flat I hear a pop in the speakers.. nothing huge but still annoying. Did anybody experience that? Any suggestion (apart from getting a mains filter?) Cheers Andrea
__________________
I don't believe in audiophile components - except when I can get them at frugal-phile(tm) prices
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Try a 0.1uf cap across the input pins of the chip.
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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I had a discussion with a friend of mine on the subject, though this was a commercial amp.
what decided to try was to use a snubber, yes, a 1uf 400V cap in series with a 1ohm resistor. it worked somewhat, the problem was reduced, though, not abolished. we should maby have tried without the resistor, but i was very set on the whole snubber subject at the time. we should altso have tried to use two caps, from each rail to ground. this was done on the mains, as we didn't bother to open the amp. we came to the conclution altso that the amp sounded a litle cleaner and had less noise idle. it's worth trying. wont cost you much anyways. regards Marius |
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#4 |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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I don't have problems with electrical switches, they are in shape, but the fridge made a "pop" in the speakers when it turned on.
I always tend to attack the source of the problem but... my wife wouldn't like to see me fiddling with the fridge. A 300~330pf cap across the inputs of the LM3886 will solve the problem, or attenuate it to practically inaudible levels, it depends. Check it out: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...amp=1112539310 PS: I use a styroflex cap. For small values, they are the best IMHO. And BTW, you need to replace those faulty switches too. |
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#5 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: near Milano , Italy
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Quote:
Quote:
cheers Andrea
__________________
I don't believe in audiophile components - except when I can get them at frugal-phile(tm) prices
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#6 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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Quote:
Pretty from the outside, nasty on the inside. I'm sure they spark inside when you turn on the lights. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Melbourne
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I have two chip amps that do this and another that doesn't. The main differences are that the one that doesn't is in a metal case and that it has an electrostatic screen between the primary and secondary of the mains transformer.
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Windy City
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Quote:
C |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Toronto
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Quote:
I think good shielding box is mandatory for any amp. Otherwise it's easy to pick up all kind of EM junk. Greg |
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#10 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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Quote:
But occasionally the fridge made "pop" on my speakers. Maby an expen$ive all-copper chassis would be better than aluminium or steel. But a 300pf cap does it for me, and I couldn't notice any effect in the sound. |
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