Heat Sink Sources?

DDF · 19th March 2005, 12:23 PM

Hi, I've been unable to find nice low profile heat sinks for my GC. Its based on the 3786, using the National Semi evaluation kit PCB. The chassis is 2U, and the part is non-insulated, so the heat sink height < 2.5". I haven't finalized thermal needs yet, but I may upgrade to the 3886 and am looking for a heat sink that's efficient.

I've checked the usual sources (digikey, electrosonic, mouser) and nothing seemed appropriate.

So, could someone recommend a good place to source heat sinks for these little guys?

Thanks!
Dave

paulb · 19th March 2005, 01:28 PM

How about an array of small CPU-type heatsinks on a plate? Should be able to find surplus sources for these.

mercator · 19th March 2005, 01:42 PM

I like the computer heatsink approach, especially the ones from zeon and slot 1 pentiums. I have a couple of 3886 chips running on some now that seem to work pretty good.

/Dave

mercator · 19th March 2005, 01:55 PM

here is a picture...

paulb · 19th March 2005, 02:22 PM

I knew I must have got the idea from somewhere...

peace brainerd · 19th March 2005, 02:31 PM

Second-hand car stereo, car power amps and computer junk lying about or from thrift stores + an aluminum angle jig to hold things steady in my milwaukee compound miter saw and using a 10" non-ferrous blade + ear plugs and safety glasses
= just about any kind of heat sink my imagination can come up with.
The non-ferrous blade leaves such a burr free clean finish that it's often not necessary to do anything more to it. Of course, unless you have these tools handy, and have enough other uses for a fifty dollar specialty blade like this, it would be far cheaper to keep looking for exactly the right off-the-shelf heatsink.

Be EXTREMELY careful. If the piece you're cutting into with this arrangement isn't clamped rock-solid against movement you greatly increase the risk of the blade over-biting, and then something's gonna break - the piece, the saw, or you. And never attempt to cut aluminum with a standard ripping blade. You can get away with it on a table saw, but not on a miter saw. The angle of the carbide teeth is greater and almost guarantees catastrophe - especially on smaller pieces. A non-ferrous blade has zero or even slightly negative "hook" on the teeth and makes things much safer.

budwiser · 19th March 2005, 04:34 PM

Try www.thermaflo.com

rabbitz · 20th March 2005, 01:31 AM

Got a low profile heatsink that's 36mm high used on my Mars probe GC.

With the chips placed on the top instead of the underside, would even squeeze into a 1U case..... maybe.

It's a 1.4 C/W extruded heatsink from here and just to give you an idea.
http://www.altronics.com.au/index.as...=item&id=H0580

theChris · 21st March 2005, 10:40 PM

you can try www.goldmine-elec.com for heatsinks. They have some 4"x2.25"x1.25" (or so) heatsinks for $1 each.

they have all types of useful capacitors and such. no resistors though.

lgreen · 21st March 2005, 11:17 PM

Read this thread.

check ElecGoldmine. or All Electronics.

FYI, this is what I used and they marked it down to $0.99.

Gets hot with a 3886 running full bore, but no problems yet.

19th March 2005, 12:23 PM	#1
DDF diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Ottawa	Heat Sink Sources? Hi, I've been unable to find nice low profile heat sinks for my GC. Its based on the 3786, using the National Semi evaluation kit PCB. The chassis is 2U, and the part is non-insulated, so the heat sink height < 2.5". I haven't finalized thermal needs yet, but I may upgrade to the 3886 and am looking for a heat sink that's efficient. I've checked the usual sources (digikey, electrosonic, mouser) and nothing seemed appropriate. So, could someone recommend a good place to source heat sinks for these little guys? Thanks! Dave

19th March 2005, 01:42 PM	#3
mercator diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Calgary	I like the computer heatsink approach, especially the ones from zeon and slot 1 pentiums. I have a couple of 3886 chips running on some now that seem to work pretty good. /Dave __________________ Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want.

21st March 2005, 10:40 PM	#9
theChris diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: SIUE, Illinois, USA	you can try www.goldmine-elec.com for heatsinks. They have some 4"x2.25"x1.25" (or so) heatsinks for $1 each. they have all types of useful capacitors and such. no resistors though. __________________ if only it could be used for good, not evil...

21st March 2005, 11:17 PM	#10
lgreen diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: San Diego, USA	Heat Sinks Read this thread. check ElecGoldmine. or All Electronics. FYI, this is what I used and they marked it down to $0.99. Gets hot with a 3886 running full bore, but no problems yet.

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19th March 2005, 01:28 PM	#2
paulb diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Calgary	How about an array of small CPU-type heatsinks on a plate? Should be able to find surplus sources for these.

19th March 2005, 02:22 PM	#5
paulb diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Calgary	I knew I must have got the idea from somewhere...

19th March 2005, 02:31 PM	#6
peace brainerd diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004	Second-hand car stereo, car power amps and computer junk lying about or from thrift stores + an aluminum angle jig to hold things steady in my milwaukee compound miter saw and using a 10" non-ferrous blade + ear plugs and safety glasses = just about any kind of heat sink my imagination can come up with. The non-ferrous blade leaves such a burr free clean finish that it's often not necessary to do anything more to it. Of course, unless you have these tools handy, and have enough other uses for a fifty dollar specialty blade like this, it would be far cheaper to keep looking for exactly the right off-the-shelf heatsink. Be EXTREMELY careful. If the piece you're cutting into with this arrangement isn't clamped rock-solid against movement you greatly increase the risk of the blade over-biting, and then something's gonna break - the piece, the saw, or you. And never attempt to cut aluminum with a standard ripping blade. You can get away with it on a table saw, but not on a miter saw. The angle of the carbide teeth is greater and almost guarantees catastrophe - especially on smaller pieces. A non-ferrous blade has zero or even slightly negative "hook" on the teeth and makes things much safer.

19th March 2005, 04:34 PM	#7
budwiser diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Greenwood, IN	Try www.thermaflo.com

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