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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I blowed Caps, blowned diodes, and broke the copper on PCB. Finally, I blow up the LM3875.....
I finally got my 25V+25V PS fix.... it actrually come out to be 38.3-.7 +/- Before I put the PS back together, I was using a stable 12V supply to run the amp section, No Problem. Later I fixed the 25V+25V PS and connected to the Amp section, and the chip blow as soon as I turn on the power. After the Chip blow, the PS still fine and getting the same reading. Then I wonder can I connect PG+/- together from the amp section then out to a cable to the rectifer board? Because it is connect together in amp section anyway. *********PG+ ---*****************-----PG-************* Amp section******\ One Power cable /********Rectifer board ***************/-----------------\******************* *********PG- ---*****************-----PG+************* * = empty spaces The problem is my amp section.... 3:45am... I need to sleep now. Continue tomorrow. Pictures tomorrow too. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Kemzeke
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I blew some LM's too: in my case it was caused by switching V+ and V-.
As for the grounding issue: I would say keep PG+ and PG- separate. It was designed this way probably for a reason |
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#3 |
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Banned
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Pictures of the blown parts of pictures of the wiring setup ? both would help us help you..
J' |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Left Channel Blown Chip
![]() Left Channel Full View ![]() Right Channel Blown Chip ![]() Right Channel Full View ![]() THE PROBLEM ![]() ![]() The wire on the paper suppose to be V- but I put V+ there..... I have a question. How come I use the a electric meter to test the connectitive. The meter beep when I connect everthing together while I put the niddle to V+ and V-? If I test The Power Supply allone, the meter won't beep. Is it the blown chip bridge or it is suppose to be like that? Also should I replace ever compounet or I just change the chip? |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: sweden
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Tip of the day : If the wires carries different signals/voltages use different coluors!
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#6 |
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Banned
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I cant really tell but it looks like that resister is in the wrong spot and looks to be shorting stuff out. got a better Picture. ?
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Vancouver
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Quote:
Yeah it looks as if it might be a cold solder as well? Nice pictures though. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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OK ! It is offical that I only mixed up V+ and V-. Now I changed the chip and switch the V+/V- back to normal. Now sounds is coming out. Thx guys !
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: California Republic
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The meter beeps because capacitors are shorts for a while. If you leave the meter there long enough for the capacitor to charge up, the beeping would stop.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: USA
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"Measure thrice, cut once!"
Having let the smoke out more than once over the years myself, I finally started triple-checking before I turned on the juice. Nothing like having a PS capacitor pop right in your face though. Smells like victory! speaker |
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