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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Northern Virginia
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Final listening is yet to be done, and I need to rework the face to take care of the hole left by the aborted potentiometer, but it's now done and playing nicely. The chassis is plywood with aluminum tape and aluminum flashing for internal shielding. The skins are white acrylic. There are oval holes in the bottom and top to let air flow through the heatsinks.
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
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Quote:
-- Brian |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Northern Virginia
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Once I get the front fixed, I will take a few more pics, fix everything up in Photoshop, and send you some for your website.
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
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Quote:
Thanks,-- Brian |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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where did you snag those rather impressive heat sinks?
__________________
Two little mice fell in a bucket of cream. The first mouse quickly gave up and drowned. The second mouse, wouldn't quit. He struggled so hard that eventually he churned that cream into butter and crawled out. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Northern Virginia
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Those came off Pentium III's. Any computer designed to have sufficient internal airflow to not necessitate a fan on the CPU will have a heatsink worth keeping even after the computer is useless
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: California
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Brian,
I've been trying to email pics of my GC a couple of months ago. I get some of the emails bounced back. Then I emailed you the link to my photobucket account. In case you do see this, here is my link http://photobucket.com/albums/v521/kecline/ Nice job on your GC MtBiker! -Ken |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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I remember seeing those over at hometheaterforum.com. And is prob the most elegant simple implementation of GC i have seen yet, and the main inspiration for me to jump into my first Chip amp.
btw I am Allen Ross over there.
__________________
Two little mice fell in a bucket of cream. The first mouse quickly gave up and drowned. The second mouse, wouldn't quit. He struggled so hard that eventually he churned that cream into butter and crawled out. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ottawa
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Hey Kec,
What kind of cable did you use in your mono blocks to go from the rca in to the signal in on the pcb? Looks like some sort of coaxial cable. I'm about to put together one of my BrianGT kits and I was wondering what sort of cable to use for this purpose. I was just going to use some twisted pair from a cat5 cable, but I would like to assemble this kit as nicely as I can. -steve |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Montreal
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Quote:
you should use whatever you used for your interconnects (assuming you like them and they are practical enough to place in chasis) same thing for connecting binding posts, use your speaker wire. this way you dont get two different colourations in one connection. |
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