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Old 11th December 2004, 11:41 AM   #21
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Excellent instructions! Anyone can follow them and do a great job on any parts soldering.

What temperature do you set your solder pen to? I normally use 400 degrees C on my Hakko, but it might be less for SMD.


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Old 11th December 2004, 12:31 PM   #22
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I would recommend 300-370 deg C. I usually use 300 deg. The only time I turn up the temp is when I solder TO220 SMD and similar.
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Old 11th December 2004, 12:55 PM   #23
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I use 370 on the Hakko -- when I have to solder TO-220 I change the tip.
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Old 13th December 2004, 08:18 AM   #24
Roushon is offline Roushon  India
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Quote:
Originally posted by gmphadte


Remember soldering is best done with all four touching each other
1 Iron tip 2.solder Lead 3.component pin and 4. PCB pad
No flux necessary since it is present in the solder

If you are going to fix this IC on a socket, then u will NOT get it to work what it is worth. I know U are not going to believe me now.

If u are not confident of soldring it, then I suggest u follow as below
1)Clean all the PCB pads that the IC goes into. (should be shiny)
2)Solder the pads on the PCB,
and then clean and clear the holes.
Insert the IC and solder it with clean and solder wetted iron tip

If u are afraid of damaging the IC due to static, it is IMPOSSIBLE with such high humidity(80%+). Only care that has to be taken is that u use less wattage soldering iron and follow the above method. U will not fail.

The soldering irons like weller(costs thousands) with iron coated tips are difficult to solder with since the tip does not get wetted easily.

As for the SMD IC, it is much easier with a cheap iron like TONY but the bit should be of chisel shape. If it is not, then file it to make like one(3-4 mm chisel). Don't worry it's just copper with coating for cosmetic purpose.
Now follow 1 and 2 above.
Next get rid of the globs and make them dabs by using a solder wick.
Don't have solder wick, then use your imagination.
After this, place the IC properly and glue it at the bottom using small drop of rubber based glue(quickfix, fevibond), in the middle, bottom of the IC.
Now solder as follows
Wet the iron tip (with solder This applies to all above wetting)
Now place the iron tip on the multiple pins. This will solder the pins below and after a second or so move the iron away from the IC but still touching the pins. This will take away the excess solder.
Repeat for all the pins.
After soldering the IC if u find a bridge between the pins, use solder wick or imagination to correct.
Inspect the job with a lens and move a sharp knife between all the pins to get rid of any invisible solder.

Remember, u don't need a good soldering iron but skill and say u are going to get it

Best of luck

Gajanan Phadte
Hi Gajanan,
It is a very very practical way of explaning your simple solution to the question I asked.
In fact I have a 10W and a 25W TONY soldering irons. And I used them before almost exactly the way you described. I have soldered TTL, CMOS ICs direclty without damaging them. I have filed the bits to suit it for some fine soldering. But my feeling was that a audio circuit is different and needs more care (as reproduction of sound is a difficult job). And this is the first time I am into some serious audio circuit. Yes the humidity here is very high as you know, so static problem is not there. Now it gives me confidence that I can go ahead using my old tricks and solder SMD etc....

With best regards...
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Old 14th December 2004, 07:43 AM   #25
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Default weller/hakko users...

This is for those who read quick.
The iron tip of these expensive irons is not to be filed.

Gajanan Phadte
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Old 14th December 2004, 10:19 PM   #26
gmarsh is offline gmarsh  Canada
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Default Re: weller/hakko users...

Quote:
Originally posted by gmphadte
This is for those who read quick.
The iron tip of these expensive irons is not to be filed.

Gajanan Phadte
I'm not sure what metal my 936 uses, but you can file them. I've resurrected a couple of tips at work.

I converted one of my Hakko tips to a miniwave tip with a Dremel. It tinned up and works wonderfully for soldering surface mount stuff. I'll probably take a picture of it later...
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Old 15th December 2004, 03:21 AM   #27
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no idea, but in such cases and if your iron tips are costly, try making one from copper rod. Some tip coatings are for increasing life of the tip. Only one I know was a Weller soldering station with iron coating and the tip was used for 15 years, after which the sensing component gave up.

Now at work, we don't need to use a soldering iron very often since we only replace cards.

Gajanan Phadte
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