Actually if you take a piece of alu and a piece of copper with identical measures, the dissipation will be exactly the same, but copper will lead the heat faster away from the heat source to dissipation.
Painting it black will make the dissipation better in both cases.
So Vikash you are right about copper conducting better.
Painting it black will make the dissipation better in both cases.
So Vikash you are right about copper conducting better.
I'm using perforated aluminum top panel, and this dissipates most of heat in Patek design.
With the integrated chassis, the copper piece is connected to rear panel (which surface by itself is big enough), but it also connects to the mid plate, which in turn is connected to the top panel.
In any case, GC generates very little heat, and dissipating it shouldn't be a problem in most designs.
With the integrated chassis, the copper piece is connected to rear panel (which surface by itself is big enough), but it also connects to the mid plate, which in turn is connected to the top panel.
In any case, GC generates very little heat, and dissipating it shouldn't be a problem in most designs.
Vikash,
Your amp is very well done. From your attention to your own site and others you have designed, I can tell you are a designer with a keen eye.
I hope to see more of what you are doing, as it is very well thought out and is much more of a success than most comercial designs I see.
Thank you,
Sandy.
Your amp is very well done. From your attention to your own site and others you have designed, I can tell you are a designer with a keen eye.
I hope to see more of what you are doing, as it is very well thought out and is much more of a success than most comercial designs I see.
Thank you,
Sandy.
Upupa,
I think Vikash is a very accomplished web designer for sure. I personally thought his choice to build a nice small chassis using clear materials to show off the boards inside was much nicer than a plain black rack mount chassis.
On the other hand, I have seen some of the boards I believe you have designed and posted and they look very impressive as well. I'm not sure of the details, though, as the threads seem to often get muddled in people arguing and I stop reading at that time. If you had a website that shows some of your projects without the forum arguing, I'd like to learn more about that too.
Vikash gave both and I enjoyed it and still think congratulations are in order.
Sandy.
I think Vikash is a very accomplished web designer for sure. I personally thought his choice to build a nice small chassis using clear materials to show off the boards inside was much nicer than a plain black rack mount chassis.
On the other hand, I have seen some of the boards I believe you have designed and posted and they look very impressive as well. I'm not sure of the details, though, as the threads seem to often get muddled in people arguing and I stop reading at that time. If you had a website that shows some of your projects without the forum arguing, I'd like to learn more about that too.
Vikash gave both and I enjoyed it and still think congratulations are in order.
Sandy.
Not sure how thick computer cable is, but I made the umbilical using stranded cable 0.5mm2 and it seems to be fine. I'm quite enjoying it but for the attenuator. Not nearly enough steps for my taste.falcott said:
neutron7 said:I think that looks great in a "case mod" sort of way. are you making up for the fact you have a laptop
It's ironic that I hate that PC case mod look but still managed to create something you might describe as similar too I actually wanted something that would sit on top of my pillar of external computer peripherals (modem, router, sc break out box...) - hence the size and dimensions of TATCA. Not sure if RFI will allow this though I tried some holes in the top, but it didnt turn out too well. Probably try again with another design before reverting to plain and simple again.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hello Vikash
Earlyer in this thread you mentioned that you would like to make the panels less blend, if you know someone working with stainless steel they probably have the tools for glassblasting (i'm not sure if its called that in english) it's the same as sandblasting using very fine glasspowder instead of sand, this will give the surfaces a nice diffuse look still being able to see the shadows of the components through it.
The material is to "soft" to get a good result using grindingpaper.
You have to be very carefull blasting it, the "glasspowder" is "eating" the material rather fast.
Earlyer in this thread you mentioned that you would like to make the panels less blend, if you know someone working with stainless steel they probably have the tools for glassblasting (i'm not sure if its called that in english) it's the same as sandblasting using very fine glasspowder instead of sand, this will give the surfaces a nice diffuse look still being able to see the shadows of the components through it.
The material is to "soft" to get a good result using grindingpaper.
You have to be very carefull blasting it, the "glasspowder" is "eating" the material rather fast.
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