TATCA - Tiny And Transparent Chip Amp - Page 3

ROVSING · 8th December 2004, 12:36 PM

Actually if you take a piece of alu and a piece of copper with identical measures, the dissipation will be exactly the same, but copper will lead the heat faster away from the heat source to dissipation.
Painting it black will make the dissipation better in both cases.
So Vikash you are right about copper conducting better.

earsandeyes · 8th December 2004, 02:49 PM

As Daniel pointed out: Surface (exposed to (free) flowing air) is the key factor in getting rid of the heat. In view of the free exposure copper will do better in the Peter Daniel design, where as far as I can see only the backside is freely exposed.

E&E

Peter Daniel · 8th December 2004, 03:11 PM

I'm using perforated aluminum top panel, and this dissipates most of heat in Patek design.

With the integrated chassis, the copper piece is connected to rear panel (which surface by itself is big enough), but it also connects to the mid plate, which in turn is connected to the top panel.

In any case, GC generates very little heat, and dissipating it shouldn't be a problem in most designs.

Peter Daniel · 8th December 2004, 03:13 PM

As to the computer cables, I'm not sure how much current they can take, but if you put them in parallel (per rail), chances are they will work.

BrianGT · 8th December 2004, 04:13 PM

Vikash,

Looks nice!

What does your power supply chassis look like?

--
Brian

Upupa Epops · 8th December 2004, 04:37 PM

Temperature transfer of copper ( against aluminium ) is similar as electricel conductivity - difference is a few percent

.

Vikash · 8th December 2004, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BrianGT
Vikash,

Looks nice!

What does your power supply chassis look like?

--
Brian

More transparent than the amp. So much so that you can't see any of it

I'll start on it soon hopefully, and want it to be a simple dark block for the amp to sit on.

jackinnj · 8th December 2004, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Peter Daniel
Heatsinks are definitely fine, maybe even too big

Guestimating from their size the "Therminator" says that C/W=2.1 which is just dandy for ambient air flow.

XELB · 10th December 2004, 08:44 AM

Nice work

I Like the ideia.... small, simple and we can say original

When you finish, tell us about the sound quality

Sandy H. · 10th December 2004, 10:56 PM

Vikash,

Your amp is very well done. From your attention to your own site and others you have designed, I can tell you are a designer with a keen eye.

I hope to see more of what you are doing, as it is very well thought out and is much more of a success than most comercial designs I see.

Thank you,

Sandy.

8th December 2004, 12:36 PM	#21
ROVSING diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Fyn Odense	Actually if you take a piece of alu and a piece of copper with identical measures, the dissipation will be exactly the same, but copper will lead the heat faster away from the heat source to dissipation. Painting it black will make the dissipation better in both cases. So Vikash you are right about copper conducting better. __________________ Frandsen

8th December 2004, 02:49 PM	#22
earsandeyes diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: utrecht	heattransfer As Daniel pointed out: Surface (exposed to (free) flowing air) is the key factor in getting rid of the heat. In view of the free exposure copper will do better in the Peter Daniel design, where as far as I can see only the backside is freely exposed. E&E

8th December 2004, 03:11 PM	#23
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	I'm using perforated aluminum top panel, and this dissipates most of heat in Patek design. With the integrated chassis, the copper piece is connected to rear panel (which surface by itself is big enough), but it also connects to the mid plate, which in turn is connected to the top panel. In any case, GC generates very little heat, and dissipating it shouldn't be a problem in most designs. __________________ www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

8th December 2004, 03:13 PM	#24
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	As to the computer cables, I'm not sure how much current they can take, but if you put them in parallel (per rail), chances are they will work. __________________ www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

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8th December 2004, 04:13 PM	#25
BrianGT diyAudio Moderator Emeritus Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: near Atlanta, GA	Vikash, Looks nice! What does your power supply chassis look like? -- Brian

8th December 2004, 04:37 PM	#26
Upupa Epops diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Prague,Czech Republic	Temperature transfer of copper ( against aluminium ) is similar as electricel conductivity - difference is a few percent .

10th December 2004, 08:44 AM	#29
XELB diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Lisboa	Nice work I Like the ideia.... small, simple and we can say original When you finish, tell us about the sound quality

10th December 2004, 10:56 PM	#30
Sandy H. diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC - USA	Vikash, Your amp is very well done. From your attention to your own site and others you have designed, I can tell you are a designer with a keen eye. I hope to see more of what you are doing, as it is very well thought out and is much more of a success than most comercial designs I see. Thank you, Sandy.

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