Hi all,
I'm burning in a GC built using Brian's 3875 basic kit as follow:
- all components from Brian (without zobel parts) are used
- all components are new
- 100K log pot (Tyco)
- dual mono with 2 x Talema (RS component) toroidal transformer, each is 2 x 18V/160VA
- non-boxed yet, still on the open trial board.
- not-grounded to the earth (the CHG do not connected to the AC ground) since in my home I do not have a "real" earth ground. In Indonesia, although we use European Schuko power connector (2 pin + 1 ground), it is very rare in houses to have a Live-Neutral-Gnd electricity installation; as in my house I only have Live-Neutral, while the Gnd is actually wired to the Neutral at the distribution panel.
Accompanying equipment is:
- CD player: Meracus Tanto
- Speaker: Dynaudio Audience 40 (86.5db sens./3.9Ohm min.)
- cable, I/C: various DIY: tighly twisted thin magnet wire and parallel/taped magnet wire
(my serious I/C, Eichmann express 6 is being broken on it's connector and cannot be used temporarily)
- cable, spk: Supra 4.0 and DIY cat-5
The very first experience I had, was a bad experience. I blew up my old car speakers that were connected to the amp. I was stupidly connected the speaker to the amp without any protection and forget that the powering-up amp is a very dangerous process. With the speakers connected, I powered-up the amp: one speaker dead suddenly and the other one after playing a song for about 5 seconds.
(yes... I should test the DC voltage accross the output with dummy load first... but I was so tempted to hear the sound... and the GC seems too simple to make a mistake with...)
It reminded me that I need to install a delay/speaker-protector circuit and relayed to protect precious speakers. I'm also thinkin to add a soft start circuit before the ac mains touch the transformer (although very rare I hear a low "bump/bang/dang" sound on the transformer when it was start. In-rush current while power-up must be "bad" in a long term).
So far, the amp has been burned for about 30 hours, though I cannot burn it continuously. Mostly only about 8 hours a day. And, I can only play it low (almost very low) since I can only play it continuosly after my family went to bed at night.
My feeling with the GC is mixed. The amp actually works...
The GC sounds detailed, forward but very smooth, even from the very start. Voices (especially females) sounds beautiful. My current amp, Nakamichi IA-2 Integrated Amp, sounds cold, laid back and veiled compared to the smoothnees, forwardness and details of GC sound. Too smooth for my taste actually, since my CD player is already a refined and smooth machine. I also found that GC sounds a lot better when warm than when it is cold (something normal).
I have some annoying problems with the amp, however... (that's why my feeling is mixed...)
1. The amp sometimes sound thin, especially with rhythmical music, but do not really annoying with slow music
2. less of attack, very hearable with rhythmical music like jazz fusion, tango and rocks, for whatever the volume I set (low/soft or loud)
3. after got warmed, maybe after 5 hours, there is a soft rattling (something like mechanical hum) seems comming from the amp board (I try to distinguish, whether the sound come from the transformer or the board, but it seems they come from the board)
Guys, as more experience builders, what do you think for the cause of the problems?
For the thin and less of attack problem: Is it true that my speaker is a very bad match for my GC version?
If it is not my speaker, will one (or all) of the following updates help?
- still in passive-pre style, change pot to lower value (10K or 25K)
- use regulated PS (using LM338, CarlosFM based one)
- use snubbered unregulated PS (as CarlosFM idea)
- grounding to the earth
- burning further, maybe to more than 100 hours
For the rattling sound, what can be the source of it?
Sorry for the long post. Also, I'm living in Indonesia, which has about 12 hours difference with most US states. I will be off from the forum for the next 14 hours after this post.
Thanks,
---
David
I'm burning in a GC built using Brian's 3875 basic kit as follow:
- all components from Brian (without zobel parts) are used
- all components are new
- 100K log pot (Tyco)
- dual mono with 2 x Talema (RS component) toroidal transformer, each is 2 x 18V/160VA
- non-boxed yet, still on the open trial board.
- not-grounded to the earth (the CHG do not connected to the AC ground) since in my home I do not have a "real" earth ground. In Indonesia, although we use European Schuko power connector (2 pin + 1 ground), it is very rare in houses to have a Live-Neutral-Gnd electricity installation; as in my house I only have Live-Neutral, while the Gnd is actually wired to the Neutral at the distribution panel.
Accompanying equipment is:
- CD player: Meracus Tanto
- Speaker: Dynaudio Audience 40 (86.5db sens./3.9Ohm min.)
- cable, I/C: various DIY: tighly twisted thin magnet wire and parallel/taped magnet wire
(my serious I/C, Eichmann express 6 is being broken on it's connector and cannot be used temporarily)
- cable, spk: Supra 4.0 and DIY cat-5
The very first experience I had, was a bad experience. I blew up my old car speakers that were connected to the amp. I was stupidly connected the speaker to the amp without any protection and forget that the powering-up amp is a very dangerous process. With the speakers connected, I powered-up the amp: one speaker dead suddenly and the other one after playing a song for about 5 seconds.
(yes... I should test the DC voltage accross the output with dummy load first... but I was so tempted to hear the sound... and the GC seems too simple to make a mistake with...)
It reminded me that I need to install a delay/speaker-protector circuit and relayed to protect precious speakers. I'm also thinkin to add a soft start circuit before the ac mains touch the transformer (although very rare I hear a low "bump/bang/dang" sound on the transformer when it was start. In-rush current while power-up must be "bad" in a long term).
So far, the amp has been burned for about 30 hours, though I cannot burn it continuously. Mostly only about 8 hours a day. And, I can only play it low (almost very low) since I can only play it continuosly after my family went to bed at night.
My feeling with the GC is mixed. The amp actually works...
The GC sounds detailed, forward but very smooth, even from the very start. Voices (especially females) sounds beautiful. My current amp, Nakamichi IA-2 Integrated Amp, sounds cold, laid back and veiled compared to the smoothnees, forwardness and details of GC sound. Too smooth for my taste actually, since my CD player is already a refined and smooth machine. I also found that GC sounds a lot better when warm than when it is cold (something normal).
I have some annoying problems with the amp, however... (that's why my feeling is mixed...)
1. The amp sometimes sound thin, especially with rhythmical music, but do not really annoying with slow music
2. less of attack, very hearable with rhythmical music like jazz fusion, tango and rocks, for whatever the volume I set (low/soft or loud)
3. after got warmed, maybe after 5 hours, there is a soft rattling (something like mechanical hum) seems comming from the amp board (I try to distinguish, whether the sound come from the transformer or the board, but it seems they come from the board)
Guys, as more experience builders, what do you think for the cause of the problems?
For the thin and less of attack problem: Is it true that my speaker is a very bad match for my GC version?
If it is not my speaker, will one (or all) of the following updates help?
- still in passive-pre style, change pot to lower value (10K or 25K)
- use regulated PS (using LM338, CarlosFM based one)
- use snubbered unregulated PS (as CarlosFM idea)
- grounding to the earth
- burning further, maybe to more than 100 hours
For the rattling sound, what can be the source of it?
Sorry for the long post. Also, I'm living in Indonesia, which has about 12 hours difference with most US states. I will be off from the forum for the next 14 hours after this post.
Thanks,
---
David
Selamat pagi David,
Presumably there was a fault that caused yor speakers to blow! Did you find it and if so what was it?
As suggested, make sure that you have adequate heatsinking on your GC (or move to England - I don't mind a swap for the winter
) .
A 25K pot should be better, I believe around 22K is meant to be the optimum, with the BrianGT kit.
A zobel may help.
Personally, I prefer some sort of buffer on a GC. A regulated supply improves things but also makes the chips run hotter - something to be aware of in your part of the world.
As regards a soft start, it shouldn't really be necessary. Why not just switch on each of your 160 VA transformers separately?
I was advised to make a separate earth connection by burying a coppler plate, pipe, suacepan etc in a patch of damp ground as near as possible to the hi-fi and then running an earth wire from that back to my hi-fi. Perhaps the more knowledgeable would like to comment on this!
Presumably there was a fault that caused yor speakers to blow! Did you find it and if so what was it?
As suggested, make sure that you have adequate heatsinking on your GC (or move to England - I don't mind a swap for the winter
) .A 25K pot should be better, I believe around 22K is meant to be the optimum, with the BrianGT kit.
A zobel may help.
Personally, I prefer some sort of buffer on a GC. A regulated supply improves things but also makes the chips run hotter - something to be aware of in your part of the world.
As regards a soft start, it shouldn't really be necessary. Why not just switch on each of your 160 VA transformers separately?
I was advised to make a separate earth connection by burying a coppler plate, pipe, suacepan etc in a patch of damp ground as near as possible to the hi-fi and then running an earth wire from that back to my hi-fi. Perhaps the more knowledgeable would like to comment on this!
kmj said:
No, you shoulden't need other protective components.
I did not even use a pot, as ong as the source have a variable output. (discman)
dw1narso: as for the sound, i'v had simelar findings with the lm3886 amp i built. equlization is a must with my amp, oterwhise the "rawness" gets lost in the music, and "bassrumbling" turns into a seriouse problem. the sound being TO smooth!
I'm going to try the tip i got of soldering one of the resistors on the legs of the IC instead of on-board, cutting the feedback loop short, or so the guy said.
as for burning in, i played somwhat high for about 3-4 hours after asembly, and that alone improved the sound very much, so 100 hour seem a litle overkill...
and as for speakers i personally use very hard-to-drive DIY speakers, an i dont think the gc like them very much, but your speakers apear to be what gc's like, easy to drive..
Hi David,
D>The very first experience I had, was a bad experience. I blew up my old car speakers that were connected to the amp.
Did you measure your cdp out ? maybe the source sends dc and theres no coupling cap at GC input.
D>So far, the amp has been burned for about 30 hours, though I cannot burn it continuously. Mostly only about 8 hours a day. And, I can only play it low (almost very low) since I can only play it continuosly after my family went to bed at night.
I use fm signal and 8ohm 80W dummy load set at 2V AC across the load to burn GC3875
D>My feeling with the GC is mixed. The amp actually works...
The GC sounds detailed, forward but very smooth, even from the very start. Voices (especially females) sounds beautiful. My current amp, Nakamichi IA-2 Integrated Amp, sounds cold, laid back and veiled compared to the smoothnees, forwardness and details of GC sound. Too smooth for my taste actually, since my CD player is already a refined and smooth machine. I also found that GC sounds a lot better when warm than when it is cold (something normal).
pakai komponennya apa aja ? gw pake 3875T, R full riken (ga nemu caddock uk besar, yg ada nilai2 kecil watt gede buat pasif xo) dan C black gate, dual maryland toroid... stl break in 150jam cont imo susah cari lawan 3875 ini. I have been using various amp, tube and ss inc Densen, ML, Pass Labs, Audion, Connie J, ARC, Creek, Threshold and listened many amp at any price... the CG have something that many $$$ amp cannot match. Of course its not the best amp in the world but overall it have so much rightness, directness and musicality. Some of my friends mostly mature audiophile that have well trained ear said so, komponen jg sangat berefek, begitu juga diode bridgenya, I prefer fast than ultra fast like MURxxx
D>3. after got warmed, maybe after 5 hours, there is a soft rattling (something like mechanical hum) seems comming from the amp board (I try to distinguish, whether the sound come from the transformer or the board, but it seems they come from the board)
Guys, as more experience builders, what do you think for the cause of the problems?
Did the transformer get hot ? have u installed a slo blo fuse ? The hum maybe diode from the rectifier board or transformer. Check diode rectifier, if it gets hot then replace the diode.
D>For the thin and less of attack problem: Is it true that my speaker is a very bad match for my GC version?
dyn memang berat, mungkin juga kurang match.
D>If it is not my speaker, will one (or all) of the following updates help?
- still in passive- pre style, change pot to lower value (10K or 25K)
- use regulated PS (using LM338, CarlosFM based one)
- use snubbered unregulated PS (as CarlosFM idea)
- grounding to the earth
- burning further, maybe to more than 100 hours
For the rattling sound, what can be the source of it?
mungkin bisa coba dulu pinjam/pakai spaeker lain sebagai perbandingan, selain itu komponen jg berpengaruh besar imo, coba2 saja ganti R dan C serta dioda bridge disamping karakter 3875 itu sendiri yg gak teralu tebal kaya tabung
Senang berkenalan dgn anda... ternyata ada juga yg bikin GC di indo he3
D>The very first experience I had, was a bad experience. I blew up my old car speakers that were connected to the amp.
Did you measure your cdp out ? maybe the source sends dc and theres no coupling cap at GC input.
D>So far, the amp has been burned for about 30 hours, though I cannot burn it continuously. Mostly only about 8 hours a day. And, I can only play it low (almost very low) since I can only play it continuosly after my family went to bed at night.
I use fm signal and 8ohm 80W dummy load set at 2V AC across the load to burn GC3875
D>My feeling with the GC is mixed. The amp actually works...
The GC sounds detailed, forward but very smooth, even from the very start. Voices (especially females) sounds beautiful. My current amp, Nakamichi IA-2 Integrated Amp, sounds cold, laid back and veiled compared to the smoothnees, forwardness and details of GC sound. Too smooth for my taste actually, since my CD player is already a refined and smooth machine. I also found that GC sounds a lot better when warm than when it is cold (something normal).
pakai komponennya apa aja ? gw pake 3875T, R full riken (ga nemu caddock uk besar, yg ada nilai2 kecil watt gede buat pasif xo) dan C black gate, dual maryland toroid... stl break in 150jam cont imo susah cari lawan 3875 ini. I have been using various amp, tube and ss inc Densen, ML, Pass Labs, Audion, Connie J, ARC, Creek, Threshold and listened many amp at any price... the CG have something that many $$$ amp cannot match. Of course its not the best amp in the world but overall it have so much rightness, directness and musicality. Some of my friends mostly mature audiophile that have well trained ear said so, komponen jg sangat berefek, begitu juga diode bridgenya, I prefer fast than ultra fast like MURxxx
D>3. after got warmed, maybe after 5 hours, there is a soft rattling (something like mechanical hum) seems comming from the amp board (I try to distinguish, whether the sound come from the transformer or the board, but it seems they come from the board)
Guys, as more experience builders, what do you think for the cause of the problems?
Did the transformer get hot ? have u installed a slo blo fuse ? The hum maybe diode from the rectifier board or transformer. Check diode rectifier, if it gets hot then replace the diode.
D>For the thin and less of attack problem: Is it true that my speaker is a very bad match for my GC version?
dyn memang berat, mungkin juga kurang match.
D>If it is not my speaker, will one (or all) of the following updates help?
- still in passive- pre style, change pot to lower value (10K or 25K)
- use regulated PS (using LM338, CarlosFM based one)
- use snubbered unregulated PS (as CarlosFM idea)
- grounding to the earth
- burning further, maybe to more than 100 hours
For the rattling sound, what can be the source of it?
mungkin bisa coba dulu pinjam/pakai spaeker lain sebagai perbandingan, selain itu komponen jg berpengaruh besar imo, coba2 saja ganti R dan C serta dioda bridge disamping karakter 3875 itu sendiri yg gak teralu tebal kaya tabung
Senang berkenalan dgn anda... ternyata ada juga yg bikin GC di indo he3
is it just me or was that last post waaaay incomprehencible= 
(mungkin bisa coba dulu pinjam/pakai )
Anyway Can anyone give me the dimensions of the PCB's incl components? depth, hight, breadth (condensors mounted) and it's Brians Basic-kit.
I'm goint to build the box prior to recieving the parts.
Best regards
(mungkin bisa coba dulu pinjam/pakai )
Anyway
Can anyone give me the dimensions of the PCB's incl components? depth, hight, breadth (condensors mounted) and it's Brians Basic-kit.I'm goint to build the box prior to recieving the parts.
Best regards
Earth Grounding in the US
Also termed as Bonding, building code requires a 6 foot rod be pounded into the earth 5 feet. A bonding clamp tightened around rod and ground wire. I'm not sure of the ground wire gauge required. I would use a grounding wire same gauge as breaker/fuse circuit for serviced area (the area in house being supply electric). As for the ground run, as short and convenient as possible.
Never use grounding wire as curent carrier.
Phil
Also termed as Bonding, building code requires a 6 foot rod be pounded into the earth 5 feet. A bonding clamp tightened around rod and ground wire. I'm not sure of the ground wire gauge required. I would use a grounding wire same gauge as breaker/fuse circuit for serviced area (the area in house being supply electric). As for the ground run, as short and convenient as possible.
Never use grounding wire as curent carrier.
Phil
Ha, ha....
we are not supposed to talk in English only on this forum, right?
Surprised that some of you knows Indonesian language....
Don't worry KMJ and other else, it is just felt nice to have other people talk in your own language... I even speak Javanese language...: Ono sing biso?
to Pavel: when rattling, the sound from speaker is not affected, just when I come close to the amp that I hear that rattling sound. Could still be caused by the SPIKE?
to KMJ: it is not just blewing up my speaker actually. My house electricity breaker also shuted off when I power up the GC, while at the same time there are other big load electrical house hold running (like rice cooker and iron). I think in-rush current must be one of the reason for this. Also some gaincloner mention about "thump" sound during power up.
Anyway, speaker relay protectors and soft start circuits won't be a bad addition to the amp, right...?
to Nuuk: Selamat Pagi/Siang... (I live 7 hours ahead of you. I must be older faster then... ) AND yes, it is hot to live in Jakarta...
I forget to mention, I routed through all the wiring and connections and parts on the board, a few times before I turned it on. And then few times again after the speakers blown-up. My last suspect was that in-rush current..
Now, for the burning process, I turn on the amp first, wait few seconds to let it stable, then I connect the speakers. Safe so far.
If I read from previous Brian's threads, I saw that previously he put 20K. It was just after he run out of stock, he used 22K.
What will zobel help?
Separated switches... That's a good idea... why I never think about it!
About DIY-ing ground, it was already on my thought sometimes ago, but I will probably move to other house next mid-year so I cancel the idea.
to demorgon: I already solder the feedback resistor to the chip legs.
to Surya: of course no coupling cap. I build Brian's GC version which use very minimal components.
http://www.chipamp.com/lm3875.shtml
Transformer is never got hot. (Not even quite warm, I think...) Diode? I use MUR860... any replacement suggestion that obtainable in Indonesia? But I though MUR 860 found to be the right match by many gaincloners...
About thin tube sound, I think it is topology/design related. I have a friend that swear by 300B, then 10Y, then RS421... I follow some his evolution of 300Bs (at lease 7 times evolved), they sound very different one to another: some thin, some deep, some sweet, some even can rock...
Boleh off-air Pak Surya, kapan-2? Saya tinggal di BSD.
to Phil: I ever saw some grounding cables accompanyed by some networking equipment. It was 8AWG at least. Some even come with 4AWG grounding cable...
Regards,
---
David
we are not supposed to talk in English only on this forum, right?
Surprised that some of you knows Indonesian language....
Don't worry KMJ and other else, it is just felt nice to have other people talk in your own language... I even speak Javanese language...: Ono sing biso?
to Pavel: when rattling, the sound from speaker is not affected, just when I come close to the amp that I hear that rattling sound. Could still be caused by the SPIKE?
to KMJ: it is not just blewing up my speaker actually. My house electricity breaker also shuted off when I power up the GC, while at the same time there are other big load electrical house hold running (like rice cooker and iron). I think in-rush current must be one of the reason for this. Also some gaincloner mention about "thump" sound during power up.
Anyway, speaker relay protectors and soft start circuits won't be a bad addition to the amp, right...?
to Nuuk: Selamat Pagi/Siang... (I live 7 hours ahead of you.
I must be older faster then... ) AND yes, it is hot to live in Jakarta... I forget to mention, I routed through all the wiring and connections and parts on the board, a few times before I turned it on. And then few times again after the speakers blown-up. My last suspect was that in-rush current..
Now, for the burning process, I turn on the amp first, wait few seconds to let it stable, then I connect the speakers. Safe so far.
If I read from previous Brian's threads, I saw that previously he put 20K. It was just after he run out of stock, he used 22K.
What will zobel help?
Separated switches... That's a good idea... why I never think about it!
About DIY-ing ground, it was already on my thought sometimes ago, but I will probably move to other house next mid-year so I cancel the idea.
to demorgon: I already solder the feedback resistor to the chip legs.
to Surya: of course no coupling cap. I build Brian's GC version which use very minimal components.
http://www.chipamp.com/lm3875.shtml
Transformer is never got hot. (Not even quite warm, I think...) Diode? I use MUR860... any replacement suggestion that obtainable in Indonesia? But I though MUR 860 found to be the right match by many gaincloners...
About thin tube sound, I think it is topology/design related. I have a friend that swear by 300B, then 10Y, then RS421... I follow some his evolution of 300Bs (at lease 7 times evolved), they sound very different one to another: some thin, some deep, some sweet, some even can rock...
Boleh off-air Pak Surya, kapan-2? Saya tinggal di BSD.
to Phil: I ever saw some grounding cables accompanyed by some networking equipment. It was 8AWG at least. Some even come with 4AWG grounding cable...
Regards,
---
David
David and others,
I always thought that you should connect your speakers before turning on the amp?
Or is that fine as long as your music source is turned off?
You start with your speakers disconnected so your amp wont "thump" correct?
Do "thumps" happen at the same volume no matter what volume your pot is at?
I always thought that you should connect your speakers before turning on the amp?
Or is that fine as long as your music source is turned off?
You start with your speakers disconnected so your amp wont "thump" correct?
Do "thumps" happen at the same volume no matter what volume your pot is at?
mungkin bisa coba dulu pinjam/pakai spaeker lain sebagai perbandingan, selain itu komponen jg berpengaruh besar imo, coba2 saja ganti R dan C serta dioda bridge disamping karakter 3875 itu sendiri yg gak teralu tebal kaya tabung
=
you can try another loudspeakers to know the character of 3875, also the component changes may affect the sound
----
you can try burning furher the GC, also changing pots may affect sound quality, I use stepped tkd with good result.
Snubbered... in my GC the effect is very2 small, If theres blind test I cant tell if it use snub or not
grounding... mostly to hum problem (in sound not pcb or transformer)
>I always thought that you should connect your speakers before turning on the amp?
I think on the contrary.... that's why we have such a circuit called speaker protector... and decoupling capacitor...
The "thump" is the sound on the speaker when got a DC voltage across it. If I connect the speaker after the amp is stable, there would be no "thump" sound.
Yes, "thump" can happen regardless of the volume position. But can be worse if it is not on zero position, especially if the source or pre-amp is turned on after the power amp and there is no decoupling component in the middle of the system.
in fact, I believe, the safest way to turn of the whole audio system is by disconnect the speaker first then down to the source.... (right the opposite way of turning on the system)
NOTE: RCA interconnect should not be connected after the equipment turned on, due to the fact that the design make LIVE pin connect first before the GROUND (except Neutrik Profi)
O ya, Pak Surya, actually I have the premium version of the kit. But I build the the standard kit first to be safe and learn the sound. Beside, some member said that standard GC do not sound so different then one with premium components...
what about the "lack of attack" problem since this is what I really lack on my GC...
When you try snubber, did you increase the capacitor on the PS?
(Check this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=43423
)
What topology is your GC? inverted/non-inverted?
Regards,
---
David
I think on the contrary.... that's why we have such a circuit called speaker protector... and decoupling capacitor...
The "thump" is the sound on the speaker when got a DC voltage across it. If I connect the speaker after the amp is stable, there would be no "thump" sound.
Yes, "thump" can happen regardless of the volume position. But can be worse if it is not on zero position, especially if the source or pre-amp is turned on after the power amp and there is no decoupling component in the middle of the system.
in fact, I believe, the safest way to turn of the whole audio system is by disconnect the speaker first then down to the source.... (right the opposite way of turning on the system)
NOTE: RCA interconnect should not be connected after the equipment turned on, due to the fact that the design make LIVE pin connect first before the GROUND (except Neutrik Profi)
O ya, Pak Surya, actually I have the premium version of the kit. But I build the the standard kit first to be safe and learn the sound. Beside, some member said that standard GC do not sound so different then one with premium components...
what about the "lack of attack" problem since this is what I really lack on my GC...
When you try snubber, did you increase the capacitor on the PS?
(Check this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=43423
)
What topology is your GC? inverted/non-inverted?
Regards,
---
David
Hi KMJ,
>Did anyone have the dimensions?
get the "nigc_kit-users_guide.pdf" from Brian's chipamp.com site.
Open it with Acrobat.
In my 14" laptop screen, with magnification of 150% on the Acrobat, that is about the real size of the board.
If your monitor screen size is different, just do a simple math scaling...
Regards,
---
David
>Did anyone have the dimensions?
get the "nigc_kit-users_guide.pdf" from Brian's chipamp.com site.
Open it with Acrobat.
In my 14" laptop screen, with magnification of 150% on the Acrobat, that is about the real size of the board.
If your monitor screen size is different, just do a simple math scaling...
Regards,
---
David
Halo pak David,
I felt MUR series (Mot/On) sound etched, SG45 have more air and relaxed in my GC. Some says TFK is good, but at much higher price
I find that GC are very good in this area also in timing and pace... from the beginning.
More breakin gives warm, relaxed and reduce HF harshness to the sound.
I try add more capacitance once and didnt like the result, with 2000uF elco I use various snubber (brand and value) and it seems add very little gain in attack. YMMV
I use PD min NIGC with Gaincard Style pcb
, zobel at output (I use PSC R50 biwire ribbon speaker cab, seems GC didnt like it, zobel helps eliminating HF oscillation).
Katanya GC match dgn Supra cable...
beli dimana Supranya kalau boleh tau Pak ?
Oops, my mistakes...
Youre right that every tube and topology sounds different, EL34 have classic bold and warm tube sound, 45 gives clean, detailed and fast sound...so another type have a different sonic signature.
I think 3875 sound is... tdk teralu tipis jg tidak tebal (sorry I cant translate in english... my english is bad enough). One thing... it didnt have a tube liquidity, it just sounds like...3875
Changing other component may affect the sound, but not the character of GC. cmiiw
Pak David, saya tinggal di bdg, kalau sewaktu2 saya ke jkt saya akan hubungi/pm anda kalau tidak keberatan...
Regards
I felt MUR series (Mot/On) sound etched, SG45 have more air and relaxed in my GC. Some says TFK is good, but at much higher price
I find that GC are very good in this area also in timing and pace... from the beginning.
More breakin gives warm, relaxed and reduce HF harshness to the sound.
I try add more capacitance once and didnt like the result, with 2000uF elco I use various snubber (brand and value) and it seems add very little gain in attack. YMMV
I use PD min NIGC with Gaincard Style pcb
, zobel at output (I use PSC R50 biwire ribbon speaker cab, seems GC didnt like it, zobel helps eliminating HF oscillation). Katanya GC match dgn Supra cable...
beli dimana Supranya kalau boleh tau Pak ?
Oops, my mistakes...
Youre right that every tube and topology sounds different, EL34 have classic bold and warm tube sound, 45 gives clean, detailed and fast sound...so another type have a different sonic signature.
I think 3875 sound is... tdk teralu tipis jg tidak tebal (sorry I cant translate in english... my english is bad enough
). One thing... it didnt have a tube liquidity, it just sounds like...3875 Changing other component may affect the sound, but not the character of GC. cmiiw
Pak David, saya tinggal di bdg, kalau sewaktu2 saya ke jkt saya akan hubungi/pm anda kalau tidak keberatan...
Regards
to Nuuk: Selamat Pagi/Siang... (I live 7 hours ahead of you.
I am a big fan of jam karet!
The Zobel network may help the GC to drive your speakers better.
I am a bit alarmed to see all this talk of switch-on thumps and other noises.
A well-built GC should not produce anything more than a faint sound on the speakers when it is powered up. The exception is with a buffered GC where the buffer section should be powered prior to turning on the GC (this allows the DC offset on the output of the buffer to settle down).
Personally, I do not like connecting/disconnecting any cables in my system while it is powered up.
kmj said:
Can't you just connect a wire to the radiator in the room?
"
Although that would work, you wou have a potential lethal condition. By that I'm saying all piping in your house could be electrically energized. If your body provides a better ground than the pipes.... SAP. Friends visit your family.
The copper rod pounded into the ground is the real earth ground. I have two rods for my home, one by the service into the building and second grounds the pool/pool filter/shed.
Phil
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.