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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: iowa
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I got what looks like a resistor saying "2.7ÙJ 2W" and a small relay looking thing saying "100n CR 63v BC 0423416."
I didn't find them on the parts included on the guide. Any ideas? Thanks, Matt |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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Sounds like a Zobel network to me. If it is, then you connect them in series between the two speaker terminals.
__________________
The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: California, USA
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You didn't say if it was the LM3875 or LM4780 GC kit. However, Nuuk is right: they are the Zobel network.
2.7ÙJ 2W = 2.7ohm 2W resistor 100n CR 63v BC 0423416 = .1uF cap There is a spot on the 3875 boards for the Zobel, not sure about the 4780. As an alternative, you can connect the parts in series across the speaker terminals for the same result. Peter and Brian have both suggested to only use the Zoebel if required, and there are many happy GC owners who do not use it. Unless your speakers cables are exceedingly long, or exceptional capacitive, I suggest you leave the Zobel off or at least listen both ways. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: BKK
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About the order of R C for zebol. I am curious. Typically I connect the zebol R (1 ohm) to the speaker out (signal) and the Cap ( 0.22 or 0.1 UF) connect to the speaker ground.
I found some GC board connect the R C reversely (i.e. the zebol R connect to the speaker ground instead). Any difference between both approarch? |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Illinois
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Quote:
Nuuk, would it be better to actually connect it on the speaker? or on the amp PCB? both? sorry if it's a stupid question |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Nope. The output is AC, so no polarity concerns. Sheldon |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Sheldon |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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Quote:
Yes, as Sheldon says, the Zobel needs to go close to the amp, ie on the terminals or even on the PCB if there is room.
__________________
The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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#9 | ||
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Quote:
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Melbourne
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Hi,
I noticed this thread and headed down the shop to to add a zobel to my Gainclone to see what the fuss was about. I feel that there's been an improvement in sound, particularly there was a little level difference between LR that seems to have gone - but most noticeably the top end seems less forced and less forward, perhaps less bright? It is hard to put a Zobel on and off with a switch so I can't discount a possible placebo effect, however I do feel it has compensated to the audio quality in some small improvement. Worth a try. Cheers Rod
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