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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I dont understand the ratings too well but this falls within the specs for Brian GT's LM3875 kit
http://custom1.farnell.com/cpc/produ...ct%5Fid=275506 I cant find a definitive heatsink requirment... Will this do? http://www.conradheatsinks.com/produ..._350.html#MF15 the 75mm one has a thermal resistance on 0.72 C/Watt for 80C rise. They will only cost about £5.50 eachplus shipping. Oh an internal wiring...as I only intend to make these once what is the ultimate? Silver, pure crystal copper, etc etc......?
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'I have nothing. I owe much. The rest I leave to the poor. - Francois Rabelais satirist & doctor d.1553 |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Don't laugh too hard at the naff drawing.......
This is what I hope the units will look like when finished (her har har no not as bad as the drawing!!!) The chasis will be made of wood (something real nice) as my metal working skills and the lake of good looking reasonably priced high WAF metal cases are far and few between. The layout was inspired by conrad-johnson's Premier 350. Power in one side and running through to the outputs with the heatsinking at one end...keeping all powe parts away from the source input/amp board. The heatsink should screen the amp from the power supply but I may also layer the inside with copper leaf(?) to help.
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'I have nothing. I owe much. The rest I leave to the poor. - Francois Rabelais satirist & doctor d.1553 |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
they are a little bit over room temp. and my Gc is feeded with a 300Va 2x25V Tx. Marc |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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from those pictures the heatsinks I have specified may be too large....but I also need them that size for cosmetic reasons. Will that be a problem?
Is the wooden chassis ok? How do you ground it or is that not required? Is the copper leaf a good idea? What about internal wiring?
__________________
'I have nothing. I owe much. The rest I leave to the poor. - Francois Rabelais satirist & doctor d.1553 |
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#5 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Berlin
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Quote:
No, of course not. A bigger heatsink never hurts...Quote:
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For wiring the mains jack, switch, fuse and transformer primary, I'd recommend a stripped and crimped wire that fulfills all the usual standards and regulations for mains wiring, e.g. a piece of good mains wire. ![]() On the secondary side, I recommend using the same type of wire between transformer/rectifier, rectifier/amp and amp/speaker. I use quality speaker cable with a cross section of at least 2.5qmm, but 1.5qmm will also work. Which brand/type you choose is up to your taste. ![]() Try to keep the double insulation on the primary side, e.g. leave the cable sleeve on, put shrink tube around contacts and connectors, etc. Hope this helps, Sebastian. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks for the reply sek.
I'll use the wiring thats on the transformer from the power socket to transormer and the attached secondary cables to the rectifier boards. Is it wise to always have a power switch? I may just power it up from the mains. From there I'll need to make sure the cable can fit inside the front of the casinf to pass the heatsink. Shouldn't the input wiring be fairly good quality cable? The output will probably be come kimber 8tc as this is what I will probably be using to connect my loudspeakers. As the amp and power sections are in different compartments and the heatsink is between the transformer and the amp I thought I would copper line the amp compartment only.
__________________
'I have nothing. I owe much. The rest I leave to the poor. - Francois Rabelais satirist & doctor d.1553 |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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Quote:
If you haven't done so yet, have a look at my GC FAQ pages. (How many times have I typed that now?
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The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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Quote:
__________________
The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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