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#201 |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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#202 |
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diyAudio Member
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I see you've implemented Peranders suggestions, right?
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#203 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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Quote:
And he doesn't use bypass caps. Let's say that P-A knows this snubber circuit from me, no? But well, I've been thinking in trying this, and it works. Not a big improvement as the first snubber provides, but an extra degree of midband and treble detail. The midband is gorgeous. |
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#204 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Montreal
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Can someone suggest a "hack" to integrate this snubber update onto Brian's LM3875 Rev3 or LM3886 boards? Im trying to figure it out, but im lost
also MKT caps? is this the same as metallized polypropylene, ie the blue BC caps included in Brian's kits?
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Most people wouldn't know good music if it came up and bit them in the ***. - Frank Zappa |
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#205 | ||
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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Quote:
On the film cap's place use the 100uf electrolythics. Bypass the electrolythics directly under them, under the board. On the bigger holes for the 1500uf caps insert the snubber. Quote:
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#206 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Where the rain does fall but the trees grow tall
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Quote:
Regarding using Brian's kit, the 3886 power supply and presumably the new LM3875 snubberized kit have the parts and boards to do the traditional snubber (Oh so January :-) ) that is the schematic that Carlos posted. So that part is in good shape. The change that Carlos is recommending is adding a few things at the chip and is in the comments. The 100Uf and 100nF is already there sort of. The 100uF caps are included in the 3886 kit for example. The 100nf is a polypropylene box in the 3886 kit. So you would need to use a 100nf MKT (polyester) instead that was not in the kit. So the holes are there but you would need to add this part ( quantity 4 - 2 for left, 2 for right amp ) The 300nF from V+ to V-. THis you would need to add. You would need 2 of these, one for each channel. I would expect to be able to just let the 3886 pins hange down below the board and solder to those underneath the board. Perhaps use a bit of insulation from some scrap wire to insulate each leg of the cap if it has to span across any traces. For the snubber of 0.47/3w + 47nF: You have to add this. You would need 4 of these snubbers. Hmmm. What about going from the V+ in to CHG (?) underneath the board. Again some insulation from some scrap wire likely will be needed. Do the same for V- to CHG. Edit: Carlos' method is cleaner, I would think for a new board that is not yet populated, |
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#207 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Montreal
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thanks guys, both methods make sense to me. guess i missed the obvious there....
__________________
Most people wouldn't know good music if it came up and bit them in the ***. - Frank Zappa |
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#208 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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OK some questions for Uncle Carlos (or anybody else who would like to answer them).
We now have two snubbers between the 10,000uF caps and the 100uF caps on the pins of the chip. Why is that and could these not be combined into one? Why is the 0R47 resistor specified as 3W when the 1R is specified as 2W? Is this because you can only find the 0R47 in 3W wirewound? If so could we use a pair of 1R/1W resistors in parallel? We seem to be adding a lot of polyester caps into the circuit and I have always understood these to be inferior to the polypropylenes. I presume that the polyesters are specified here for their comparitvely smaller size. Has anybody tried the mettalised polyphenylene sulphide caps?
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The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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#209 | |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I have used 3 x 1206 10 ohms and those aren't burnt yet.... see picture below, R9-R11
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/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me |
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#210 | |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I have tested PPS caps but only as input coupling caps. The are too big for ordinary decoupling. For this purpose I use 100 nF X7R 0805 size. C1 in the picture is PPS, C8, C9 are X7R.
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me |
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