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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Budapest
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Hi All,
I have built a Gainclone with LM1875s, and I am very pleased with its performance. Its sound is excellent and its power is far enough for me and my room. The next step I want to take is try to get those 2 octaves which are too low for my speakers. I am planning to build an active sub. What I want is fast, clean bass, not big power. I like the gainclone idea very much, and I know (I've seen it on my oscilloscope) that my Gainclone is able to produce nice low frequency sounds. This gave the idea of building an active subwoofer with a (mono) gainclone. I tried to search through the forum for this, but didn't manage to find anything. Has anyone tried this? Should the LM1875 be able to handle this or should I try to get an LM3875 instead (they are not easy to get here)? Are there any possible problems just because it will drive a subwoofer? What special things should I take care of? Does anyone have some schemas showing how to connect the input signal of that amp? Is there any simple solution for the low-pass filter? Regards, m127 |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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I am powering my TL woofers with LM3875's but with the addition of 10,000 uF per rail. I am surprised at how well this works (-3 db at 22 Hz) although I will also try a bridged GC to see if that is any better.
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The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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Im interested to know if anyone else runs the LM3*** chips to power a sub?
I currently have a stereo LM3875 igc but no where near enough bass. So i need and active sub. Plus i have loads of these chip's
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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I have 2 lm3886's that power each coil of an Adire Shiva. It's more power then it can use in the box it's in.
There are a few pictures of it on my site. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Atlanta
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I am using a ParaPix subwoofer amp I picked up on eBay to power a Dayton 10'"DVC woofer in a sealed cabinet. This amp uses two LM3886 ICs which can supposedly be bridged though I haven't tried that. I got it sans xformer and hooked it up with a 24-0-24 initially followed by a 20-0-20 as the final choice. This amp was sold by Apex Jr. some time back and his site (http://www.apexjr.com/parapixinfo.html) has very thorough documentation including schematics.
I like it so much I'm now building my own using LM3886's. |
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#6 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Germany
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Quote:
If you havenīt got it already you should buy a LM3886 preferably due to bigger output current in comparison to LM3875. You can of course also parallel 2-3 LM1875 to get about the same power. Will it be an 4Ohm sub? 20W is the limit with one chip. With an 8Ohm sub you get about 30W max. Quote:
Guess they are 8Ohm if you thinking about bridging? Cheers
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jens |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Argyle, Texas
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Use the lm3886. In my opinion the bass sounds much better than with an lm3875. It's much tighter and punchier.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: PA
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I have a single lm3886 running my sub. it has more power than I can realistically use. because seriously. 40-50 watts of REAL power is pleanty for all but really big rooms.
sounds great. I use a tl084 for a simple line level crossover. again sounds great. simple to work with. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sosnowiec
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Hi, could you provide me some more info about that line level xover? Some schematics, PCB diagram etc?
I'm not very good in electronics, but I can follow instructions, can read diagrams, I know what parts doing, can solder and do PCB ![]() Thanks AeoN |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Pickering, Canada
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Quote:
The Butcher |
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