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Old 18th August 2004, 08:47 AM   #1
Zemo is offline Zemo  United States
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Default gainclone as a car amp?

Hey all. I want to build a gainclone as a simple car stereo amplifier, and mount it in the dash. It will have auxilliary inputs and the like, but I just need to know how to wire it up... I get +14.5V and 0V rails to work with. To put enough power to the chip what do I need? Would just getting a DC-DC converter work? (I recently discovered DC-DC converters). I'm using BrianGT's boards.

My guess is that I'd take a 15V input +/- 12V output DC-DC converter and wire up the +12V to V+, -12V to V-, and wire the com pin to PG+, PG-, OG, and CHG....or actually any one of those, since the board ties all of those together...

Then just wire the in's and out's as normal?

Any help is much appruciated!
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Old 18th August 2004, 09:28 AM   #2
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hmmm...+ / - 12V would get really iffy...not sure it'll even work at this voltage though...try something higher...
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Old 18th August 2004, 10:54 AM   #3
matjans is offline matjans  Netherlands
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or try a opa541 / opa549. from the datasheet:

Quote:
WIDE POWER-SUPPLY RANGE:
Single Supply: +8V to +60V
Dual Supply: ±4V to ±30V
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Old 18th August 2004, 11:38 PM   #4
rwaudio is offline rwaudio  Canada
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or you could steal the power supply section out of another amp... like this:
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Old 20th August 2004, 01:49 AM   #5
Zemo is offline Zemo  United States
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Cool, thanks.

Just so I know... a DC-DC converter won't work? They are small IC's that convert one DC voltage input into another DC voltage output.

Here's the datasheet for one that I thought might work:

http://www.cdpowerelectronics.com/pr...c_hpr4xx_g.pdf

Is there some reason this won't work? To be honest, I don't really know very much about them....

-Z
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Old 20th August 2004, 02:55 AM   #6
digi01 is offline digi01  China
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tda1521 is a good choice.
Supply with +/-12V,in bridge mode can get 2x30W power.
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Old 20th August 2004, 03:02 AM   #7
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You'll need a little more than 30 ma to run an amp
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Old 21st August 2004, 05:11 AM   #8
Zemo is offline Zemo  United States
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I'd rather not run bridged...how much voltage should I try to get to get a reasonable amount of watts without going bridged?
...and how many mA would be a good amount?

-Z
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Old 21st August 2004, 05:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zemo
I'd rather not run bridged...how much voltage should I try to get to get a reasonable amount of watts without going bridged?
...and how many mA would be a good amount?

-Z
I did get a very nice sounding result from just 12.7 volts using 2 x tda2050 per channel with a phase splitter at the i/p to give balance working. with efficient speakers this might be a good bet.

but when experimenting later wth lm 3875 also in balanced mode the best rail voltges came out at about + / - 24V

as I increased the voltage the sound became bigger and more dynamic.

I would think you will need a power supply that can give a minimum of 3amps continuous and perhaps 5A peak.

if you use DC to DC converters I would imagine that you will need at least one C L C filter to remove HF noise.

good luck

mike
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Old 21st August 2004, 06:05 PM   #10
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don't forget that you can use the LM3875 or LM3886 in single-supply mode -- but you will need 2X the voltage, so you will wind up using a "boost" converter anyway.

i have (not in use now) an LM3875 with a switching power supply mounted in a PC-type power supply enclosure. i retained the fan and this adds greatly to the heat-sink's ability to wick away energy. the device was in the trunk of one of my MB's so there was no fan noise. (the rear sway-bar of the MB is shot, so it only goes short distances now!)
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