I ordered some boards from BrianGT and had a question.

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You could always try it. Cap values should be uneffected. Im not too familiar with these boards but I'm guessing that they use a full bridge, meaning that MUR860 will give you up to 16A in a bridge, and MBR10100 will cope with 20A, do you really need all that current handling? Lower current devices should switch quicker and a little quieter.
Steve
 
Retired diyAudio Moderator
Joined 2002
punchpeanut said:
Would it be OK to use some schottky diodes like MBR10100 instead of MUR860? I was wondering because I happened across a post by Nelson Pass saying he prefers schottky's to FREDs. Would I still use the same cap on the rectifier board?

Thanks.

If they are single diodes and the lead spacing is 0.2" (5mm), then they should work fine. The pinout should be the same.

The capacitors should be fine also.

EDIT: I looked up the part number, and it should work fine.

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Brian
 
Thanks BrianGT. I can't wait to get the boards. I think I will give it a try with the schottkys. I could always order your mono upgrade kit and swap them out to see if there is any difference is sound.

I have another quick question. Where do you have your boards made? I thought I saw somewhere else on the board that you are an EE student. Do you make them yourself at school?
 
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Joined 2002
punchpeanut said:
Thanks BrianGT. I can't wait to get the boards. I think I will give it a try with the schottkys. I could always order your mono upgrade kit and swap them out to see if there is any difference is sound.

I have another quick question. Where do you have your boards made? I thought I saw somewhere else on the board that you are an EE student. Do you make them yourself at school?

I got the boards made at Advanced Circuits: www.4pcb.com

I graduated in December as an EE from Georgia Tech, and now have a full time job doing Computer Engineering stuff. The boards from the school were not of very good quality. Here is a pictures of one of them:
http://www.briangt.com/gallery/leachamppcb/abm
The school boards were made with doublesided 1oz copper boards, milled on a milling maching by the EE dept. They had no plate through holes, so you had to solder on both sides. They also tarnished quickly if you didn't solder them right away. Also, occasionally the bits would dull, and traces didn't come out perfect.

All of the gainclone boards I ordered are very good quality from AC, doublesided with 2oz copper and plate through holes. Here are the recent pictures if you didn't see them:
http://brian.prohosting.com/pics/pcb1.jpg
http://brian.prohosting.com/pics/pcb2.jpg
http://brian.prohosting.com/pics/pcb3.jpg

If you are getting boards made, Advanced Circuits is the way to go. I also love the red soldermask, which costs an extra $150 for the board order, but I think it is worth the extra cash.

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Brian
 
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