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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I was never using Zobel network with chip amps, and never found the need for it. I've heard only of few cases when it was really required and some report that the amp actually sounds better without it.
CHG is for chassis ground connection. We put it there just in case somebody wanted to use different point for chassis ground hookup. Since recommended transformer is not CT but double secondaries, I don't know myself if it's better to connect chassis to that point or somwhere on rectifiers boards. I was always using negative output to connect with chassis (from both channel's binding posts to one point on chassis). We use indeed separate diode bridges for each cap and we made return connections as close to the filter cap GND terminals as possible. The suggested power connections seem to be indeed much better. It's always good when somebody comes with a fresh outlook. Any comments about creating loop with those connections and possible influence?
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Germany
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Peter,
Quote:
The improvement was quite noticable. This may have to do with my speaker cable (DNM/Reson), which is not shielded at all and quite long (low capacitance, high inductance, perhaps prone to catch up RF), but this is only an assumption. Anyway, the treble got cleaner and smoother, and I decided to keep it. Zobel Best regards, Oliver |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: sacramento
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I found Zobel more useful in the inverted design. Speaker cables for this amp need to be fast and not too thick, IMO. Same with connectors, not too much metal. You're compensating for a problem with the Zobel Network that needs not being a problem.
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Germany
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Jamh,
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But I sure may have other problems. ![]() Best regards, Oliver |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Retiree
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Spain or the pueblo of Los Angeles
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Quote:
Zobles: I would think the guys from National know what they're doing. You cannot tell what speakers and cables that will be used with this. It is part of the high frequency compensation for the amp. Telling people that you don't need them and leaving them out of the design is irresponsible. Don't stuff the parts if you think you don't need them, but why sell amps or PCB boards that are not the original design, just on a personal whim without a clue for the engineering reason for their inclusion ....... oh I forgot, you're an experienced amplifier designer. I guess the inexperienced builders can tack the parts on top of the board if they are not in the PCB layout. : |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Retiree
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Spain or the pueblo of Los Angeles
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Quote:
What is a fast speaker cable? In terms of inductance, capacitance, and dieletric constant of the insulation. What difference does being thick make to the speed? |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'm not an experienced designer, but so far I didn't experience any problems regarding that. The same for at least 100 people who already built the kit.
Just out of curiosity, I installed Zobel on one of my amps right now, and the difference in sound is quite substantial. I can't say it's for worse, but it's definitely different. It seems like highs got cleaned out and are smoother, yet I can also detect coloration from a cap and resistor. I would have to listen more to decide what's better. But definitely worth investigating. But those size resistor and cap might not be easy to place on the current board layout. I don't see any problem with mounting them directly to binding posts. BTW, AudioZone offers a series resistor/capacitor jumper to those who have problems with matching speaker cables to the amp. So far there was only one such problem and Zobel network didn't help. Changing speaker cables eliminated that problem though.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
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Quote:
Also, what do you think about not having a feedback capacitor. On the National app note for the LM3875, it was marked optional, but it wasn't marked optional for the LM4780. I tried the LM3875 with, and without this capacitor, and didn't notice any difference on the scope. It is necessary to have this capacitor, with it providing unity gain at DC, and and also create a highpass filter with the inverting input resistor? -- Brian |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Retiree
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Spain or the pueblo of Los Angeles
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"I don't see any problem with mounting them to binding posts."
They are on the wrong side of the 0.1 ohm resistors and you are adding a lot of lead inductance in series with something that needs to be resisitive at high frequencies where the capacitor has become a very low impedance.. I would use a 1 watt metal film and a good 160V to 250V metalized polypropylene. Those don't take up much PCB and you could stand the parts on end and soldered the airbourne leads together if space is that tight. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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I forgot about output resistors with that amp. As long as it does not interfere with current layout, I don't mind those. Probably Panasinic resistors from Digi Key would be fine here and some of those brown Panasonic caps from DK as well.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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