Hi all I've been trying all day to find help on my problem
I have a 2x300w amp SKU: AA-AB32191,
the right channel keep going into protection mode, I have to reset the board to get it working again.
The left channel keeps playing fine, this only happens at high volumes.( Getting ready for a outdoor party.)
With the speaker connected (4ohm 300wrms) I can read 30v trms with a multimeater and when I check the current I get 4amp then it cuts out.
Using a 42v14.2a smps Chinese one. I don't get why the left channels keeps playing while the right one cuts out.
I tried swapping the speaker still no joy.
I tired to remount the heat sink changed the thermal compound and used a conductive compound on the copper plate to the chip.
I swapped the 10uh inductors with 20uh 20a ones still nothing.
Any help?
Thanks
I have a 2x300w amp SKU: AA-AB32191,
the right channel keep going into protection mode, I have to reset the board to get it working again.
The left channel keeps playing fine, this only happens at high volumes.( Getting ready for a outdoor party.)
With the speaker connected (4ohm 300wrms) I can read 30v trms with a multimeater and when I check the current I get 4amp then it cuts out.
Using a 42v14.2a smps Chinese one. I don't get why the left channels keeps playing while the right one cuts out.
I tried swapping the speaker still no joy.
I tired to remount the heat sink changed the thermal compound and used a conductive compound on the copper plate to the chip.
I swapped the 10uh inductors with 20uh 20a ones still nothing.
Any help?
Thanks
Unfortunately, I cannot point to a solution. I studied the description of the amplifier and it states "TAS5630" and "Tripath class T". TAS5630 is a TI chip, not from Tripath and not class T. Is it TAS5630 or Tripath class T chips?
Now (finally) comes the interesting part: If it is Tripath and class T that is used, two other forum members have complained about their Topping TP60 (based on TA2022 from Tripath) loosing right channel so they have to restart the amplifier. Thus, you may not be the only one with this problem.
I asked if any of those two members where interested in trying to analyze the problem, but none responded back.
Hi thanks for your reply.
mine is a tas5630b DKD pakage.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tas5630b.pdf
I've been trying various stuff I found online even though I'm not sure what it all means ie changing the inductors with different ones as someone on the ti forum has a similar problem and said the inductor are saturated.... I know how to solder and test things but it's just following instructions.
Someone Else said the chip heat slug needs a electrical connection so I added a tiny bit of conductive paste. Same person said the slug need good connection to ground which is there already.
I'm not that good at reading the data sheet but I was thinking it could be the oc_adj triggering early but then it would cut both side?
I can't figure out a situation when only one side cuts off and the amp doesn't self recover.
The fan turns on when the amp get slightly hot to the touch.
I don't mind sending any info you need.
Cheers
mine is a tas5630b DKD pakage.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tas5630b.pdf
I've been trying various stuff I found online even though I'm not sure what it all means ie changing the inductors with different ones as someone on the ti forum has a similar problem and said the inductor are saturated.... I know how to solder and test things but it's just following instructions.
Someone Else said the chip heat slug needs a electrical connection so I added a tiny bit of conductive paste. Same person said the slug need good connection to ground which is there already.
I'm not that good at reading the data sheet but I was thinking it could be the oc_adj triggering early but then it would cut both side?
I can't figure out a situation when only one side cuts off and the amp doesn't self recover.
The fan turns on when the amp get slightly hot to the touch.
I don't mind sending any info you need.
Cheers
The Tripath has a latching function for the current overload. Thus,it has to be re-started to work again.
For the TAS5630, they write that they limit the current by switching the output low and ramp down the current in the output filter inductor. Not a word about latching.
BUT, on pages 15 to 18 of the datasheet there is some interesting information. In case of "overload" or over-temperature the fault condition is latched. The amplifier is probably running BTL and then each BTL channel is handled individually. The datasheet even gives a table explaining how the combination of 3 output pins can be used to decode the fault (page 16)! How can that be used with a small chip located below a huge heatsink?
Looking at a photo of the board, I must admit the output filter inductors do not look that huge compared to the terminal posts. It is a possibility that the inductors saturate->over-current->the fault is latched for that channel.
The 20uH inductors you tried, had a 20A current rating?
What happens if you put a table-fan close to the heatsink and let the fan run full speed? I would like to know if it is an over-temperature or over-current fault that causes the latching.
NB: It is actually a class D amplifier. Does "management" want us to move to the class D section?
For the TAS5630, they write that they limit the current by switching the output low and ramp down the current in the output filter inductor. Not a word about latching.
BUT, on pages 15 to 18 of the datasheet there is some interesting information. In case of "overload" or over-temperature the fault condition is latched. The amplifier is probably running BTL and then each BTL channel is handled individually. The datasheet even gives a table explaining how the combination of 3 output pins can be used to decode the fault (page 16)! How can that be used with a small chip located below a huge heatsink?
Looking at a photo of the board, I must admit the output filter inductors do not look that huge compared to the terminal posts. It is a possibility that the inductors saturate->over-current->the fault is latched for that channel.
The 20uH inductors you tried, had a 20A current rating?
What happens if you put a table-fan close to the heatsink and let the fan run full speed? I would like to know if it is an over-temperature or over-current fault that causes the latching.
NB: It is actually a class D amplifier. Does "management" want us to move to the class D section?
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Ok I will try this in the morning it's 1am atm.
The inductors I tried were scavenged from all the tda7498e I managed to fry in mono mode, its the red board one with the fan. I think I read somewhere that they are 20amp. They are 20uh, I tested them.
The terminal are pretty big, you can't really tell in the picture.
If it's the inductors wouldn't the left channel go off as its the same inductors on both sides. I tested them as well and all 4 are reading 10uh.
Instead of the table fan, can I just disconnect the fan on the heatsink and apply external power. If I can find a table fan il use that, I guess that will cool the whole board and get under the heat sink.
Will update soon.
The inductors I tried were scavenged from all the tda7498e I managed to fry in mono mode, its the red board one with the fan. I think I read somewhere that they are 20amp. They are 20uh, I tested them.
The terminal are pretty big, you can't really tell in the picture.
If it's the inductors wouldn't the left channel go off as its the same inductors on both sides. I tested them as well and all 4 are reading 10uh.
Instead of the table fan, can I just disconnect the fan on the heatsink and apply external power. If I can find a table fan il use that, I guess that will cool the whole board and get under the heat sink.
Will update soon.
Also if that was the case then it wouldn't match what it says on the datasheet
"
In BTL and SE mode, it is fully protected against speaker terminal overloads, terminal-to-terminal short circuit, and short circuit to GND or PVDD. The protection works by limiting the current, by flipping the state of the output MOSFETs; thereby, ramping currents down in the inductor. This only works when the inductor is NOT saturated, the recommended minimum inductor values are listed in Recommended Operating Conditions. "
Or am I missing something here
Also if that was the case then it wouldn't match what it says on the datasheet
"
In BTL and SE mode, it is fully protected against speaker terminal overloads, terminal-to-terminal short circuit, and short circuit to GND or PVDD. The protection works by limiting the current, by flipping the state of the output MOSFETs; thereby, ramping currents down in the inductor. This only works when the inductor is NOT saturated, the recommended minimum inductor values are listed in Recommended Operating Conditions. "
Or am I missing something here
This was also what I read for a start in the datasheet. I believe the datasheet to be unclear rather than contradictory.
The text you highlight here could mean that only as long as the current is controllable below a certain limit, the chip will try to ramp down the current, else "overload" (latching).
Exactly what is included in "overloads"? Most likely the description including latching prevails for the situation you have.
Anyway, if you tried with 20uH/20A chokes the fault latching is likely to be a shut-down of thermal nature. Cooling of such a small chip with important power losses is delicate. You can only try with an even stronger forced cooling and see if it helps.
Alternatively, you can see if you can make access (thin wires to outside of the heatsink area) so you can read the fault code.
Indeed, you are right. They promise nice diagnostics but do not supply all the signals for the DKD-package. Actually, it is the /SD pin (pin 17) that is the most interesting as it indicates "overload" or high temperature. These two pins should have internal pull-up implemented so all you need to do, if you can fix a thin wire, is to measure the voltage at this output relative to ground when the right channel disappears.
So I tried the fan which didn't work. I soldered some thin wires and it was overload.
I changed the inductors again with a different pair and it works fine now at 45v!
Thanks for your help with this
Just one last thing, do I need to change the left inductors to match the right side? 10uh on the left and 20uh on the right.
I changed the inductors again with a different pair and it works fine now at 45v!
Thanks for your help with this
Just one last thing, do I need to change the left inductors to match the right side? 10uh on the left and 20uh on the right.
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