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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Its pretty much all done, just need to finish putting it in the case, then fix the volume control. I need a 20k pot I think, I used the NIGC design in BrianGT's PDF.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Illinois
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looks good,
im sure you know but if the case is metal you need the TF version of the chip, not the T version to prevent the voltage on the die of the chip from comming in contact with the case and shorting it to V-. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yep. I've got 5 of the TF samples coming, but if I can get the insulator pads and screws then I can just use the setup I have.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Adelaide
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I agree, well done.
If your going to mount it into a box, you may want to get better speaker terminals (say bananas) instead of the spring-clip type. The only other thing, hope its fused at that IEC socket of yours. Thats about it from me, I'll shut up now
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Fuse? Did someone say fuse?
/me hides shamefully in the corner Yes, I gotta get some fuses for it. Would 1.5A slo-blow be sufficient for the AC Hot in line, like directly after the IEC socket?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Adelaide
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Depends what size toroid your using.
Anyway, the toroid usually suggests a certain inline fuse value. Hope that helps.... |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Well, after i got home from my parents house after fully bolting everything into a case, I tried to test my amp. Well, arn't I intelligent in thinking the bolts holding the heatsinks to the will be fine. I forgot to insulate them. So I killed my chips, and have since been waiting for my 5 TF samples.
They arrived! Hopefully withing the next 4 hours I can have it setup and working again.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Adelaide
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Use thermal insulating pads between the chips and heatsink. Cos at the moment, it looks like your heatsink will have a -35V voltage on it due to the screw holding it to the heatsink.
And while your at it, when I built mine, I made clamps for the chips, rather than bolting them through the screw hole. That way, it'll avoid the screw from passing current onto the heatsink. The best thermal insulating pads out there I reckon is the thermagon stuff. Fairly expensive though. www.thermagon.com |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Northern CA
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How did you make that PCB??? Is there any copper on it? Did you just drill the holes?
Also, do you happen to have a link to that PDF of BrianGTs? Looking good
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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I think that is basically point to point soldering with a "board" to hold it in place.
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