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Critique my PCB! DRV134 board
Critique my PCB! DRV134 board
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Old 31st May 2018, 04:08 PM   #1
abza is offline abza  South Africa
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Default Critique my PCB! DRV134 board

I'm busy designing a pair of DRV134 input boards to convert each stereo channel into balanced outputs for four LM3886 boards to drive (see overall design here).

The simple schematic for the DRV134 board is attached. The board will be driven by an external power supply, supplying 15V for the DRV134s and 28V for the LM3886es.

Question:
Should all the GNDs here be connected? Or rather, is there any reason not to connect the power supply GND (coming into the board via X4) and the signal GNDs (the input and outputs, X2 and X3)? Would a big, chunky ground plane be fine to use to connect all the grounds here?
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Old 31st May 2018, 09:28 PM   #2
tomchr is offline tomchr  Canada
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There's no PCB to criticize...

Tom
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Old 31st May 2018, 10:22 PM   #3
troystg is offline troystg  United States
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Do a search for "digi01" (I think) as he did some pcb's for that a while back and posted the files ( again I think).
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Old 31st May 2018, 11:26 PM   #4
rayma is offline rayma  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abza View Post
Should all the GNDs here be connected?
The grounds must all be connected together, including pin #3.
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Old 1st June 2018, 01:42 AM   #5
troystg is offline troystg  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by troystg View Post
Do a search for "digi01" (I think) as he did some pcb's for that a while back and posted the files ( again I think).
Quoting myself...


BALANCED LINE DRIVER,PCB layout share
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Old 1st June 2018, 09:20 AM   #6
abza is offline abza  South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayma View Post
The grounds must all be connected together, including pin #3.
Cool, thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomchr View Post
There's no PCB to criticize...

Tom
PCB incoming
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Old 1st June 2018, 09:25 AM   #7
abza is offline abza  South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by troystg View Post
Awesome, thanks for the reference. Bang on, pretty much! I'll post my PCB shortly - I don't think I'm far off this one already. Nice!
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Old 1st June 2018, 03:36 PM   #8
abza is offline abza  South Africa
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Right, PCB attached. I realise this is an extremely simple circuit and PCB, but I'm still learning and would value feedback as I go
  • I've kept all the traces thick (36mil), because there's plenty of room to do so.
  • I've used 0.1uF WIMA poly "red box" caps for bypassing, as this is what I have at hand.
  • Likewise for the 10uF electrolytics

Any feedback would be welcome!
...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PCB-v1.jpg (183.5 KB, 122 views)
File Type: jpg PCB-v1-Render1.jpg (92.1 KB, 116 views)
File Type: jpg PCB-v1-Render2.jpg (101.5 KB, 115 views)
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Old 1st June 2018, 05:45 PM   #9
farley is offline farley  United States
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Nice work.

If you don't mind upsetting the symmetry of the component placement, consider moving C3 and C2 down a bit to get them closer to the power pins on U1. That may or may not make a difference in this case, but it's good practice.

The power traces are very (in my opinion, unnecessarily) close to other pads. It appears there is room to move them away and, at the same time, if there's room, make them even thicker.

This is a small thing and is not a big issue for hobbyists, but in a hand placed production environment it matters. Place the electrolytic capacitors so their polarity is in the same direction.

That's all the nit picking I can come up with.
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Old 1st June 2018, 06:42 PM   #10
tomchr is offline tomchr  Canada
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If you're going to make a differential line driver, you might as well make the output ... differential. That means the output traces are equal in length and tightly coupled. Also, the DRV134 features sense inputs to sense the voltage on the output of the chip. Why not use them to compensate for the drop across the trace to the output connectors?

I suggest using pours rather than traces for the supply connections.

You've connected the dots, but it takes more than connecting the dots to form a good layout.

I also suggest cleaning up the silk screen so you don't have legend (+ on the 10uF caps, for example) overlapping with the outlines of components.

I generally prefer to have polarized components arranged in the same orientation across the board. So + on your caps would point in the same direction if I was to make it. It really makes assembly easier and makes correct assembly easier to verify. One could argue that this is nit picking for DIY, but you said you wanted to learn...

Note the layout guidelines on Page 17 of the DRV134 Data Sheet. You may find that you're missing a component in your circuit.

Tom
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Last edited by tomchr; 1st June 2018 at 06:52 PM.
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