I enjoy class D amps for many reasons. Efficiency and overall the best selection for a portable (Battery Powered - Portable) scenario. I've used many "But" the noise they create ruins most of my intended uses. It's almost impossible to make a build and include an FM receiver, especially in a fringe reception area.. (In which my target prospects are in)
Please lead me, in you're opinions, to an alternative "Type" of amp that doesn't emit a bunch of crap but likes to operate on a battery in a portable situation. I focus around 12 v.d.c. liPo type batteries and I don't need mega high wattage. Anything within reason with 12 volts..
I've designed with a few 5 v.d.c. AB amps and I really like them. I just need something with a little more balls than 3-5 watts but not drain a battery in 2 hrs..
I would like prefab boards. I don't have the time to do PC level builds at this point but I could..
Thanks in Advance!!
Please lead me, in you're opinions, to an alternative "Type" of amp that doesn't emit a bunch of crap but likes to operate on a battery in a portable situation. I focus around 12 v.d.c. liPo type batteries and I don't need mega high wattage. Anything within reason with 12 volts..
I've designed with a few 5 v.d.c. AB amps and I really like them. I just need something with a little more balls than 3-5 watts but not drain a battery in 2 hrs..
I would like prefab boards. I don't have the time to do PC level builds at this point but I could..
Thanks in Advance!!
If you have problem with stray HF, use snubbers, chokes and metal enclosures and separate the parts, i.e. with a separate cage. I mean, that should be done anyway because you don't want your amp go berzerk just because a cell phone close logs in. And that goes for all amps, not just class D.
In general, you have to weight what advantages you want, which points are a must and what may not be on the list. There are very nice class D aswell as A/B amps. What do you need? How much power, how expensive? What type of battery do you want to use? What runtime is needed?
50mA quiescent current and almost for free:
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You can find ready made TDA7297 boards as well, eventually on Ebay.
1set TDA7297 amplifier board spare parts dc 12v grade 2.0 dual audio encoding 15w electronic diy kit B52-in Integrated Circuits from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
You can find ready made TDA7297 boards as well, eventually on Ebay.
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Yes for sure, the correct D class power amp; an epiphany improvement over AB.
Lots of theories as to why, my theory is no crossover *action*.
Other zero crossover typologies are excellent too but toooo much waste heat.
Ultra low THD as a defining measurement looks like was a wrong turn taken years ago.
A power limiting semi-compressor is required IMO. As with AB, clipping sounds like amp is broken.
A tube pre with D power is ultimate in my opinion. I first realized at a demo by Wilson Audio in Fat City, Louisiana. I think the amp was from Rouge Audio.
Then recently I've done a lot of testing on TI's TPA311x boards from China. Its stunning the material that can be recovered from any type of audio source.
Right now I'm close to testing a pair of TPAs with a David Hafler DH100 pre that has the tone section op-amp replaced with a composite tube op-amp.
So no question, D class is here to stay and going forward will eventually take the entire audiophile market.
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Lots of theories as to why, my theory is no crossover *action*.
Other zero crossover typologies are excellent too but toooo much waste heat.
Ultra low THD as a defining measurement looks like was a wrong turn taken years ago.
A power limiting semi-compressor is required IMO. As with AB, clipping sounds like amp is broken.
A tube pre with D power is ultimate in my opinion. I first realized at a demo by Wilson Audio in Fat City, Louisiana. I think the amp was from Rouge Audio.
Then recently I've done a lot of testing on TI's TPA311x boards from China. Its stunning the material that can be recovered from any type of audio source.
Right now I'm close to testing a pair of TPAs with a David Hafler DH100 pre that has the tone section op-amp replaced with a composite tube op-amp.
So no question, D class is here to stay and going forward will eventually take the entire audiophile market.
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Did you try the tripath class T style amps. It's a little kind of class D chipamp that sounds very good. Better than other class d amps i heared and very close to class AB if yo ask me. It would also be good for me (who's not a fan of class d amps or chipamps in general) for small mobile applications.
Class A or AB is mostly heavy, it gets hot and use a lot of current, so not so fit for mobile applications. But it still sounds best in my book...
Some basic info: Class-T amplifier - Wikipedia
Class A or AB is mostly heavy, it gets hot and use a lot of current, so not so fit for mobile applications. But it still sounds best in my book...
Some basic info: Class-T amplifier - Wikipedia
Well, you still need a heatsink though.
The tripath amps are great, I would second that recommendation.
@OffGridKindaGuy: What kind of speaker(s) do you want to use? Type/size/impedance? That might change a lot on which amp is best for your use.
Quote..
"@OffGridKindaGuy: What kind of speaker(s) do you want to use? Type/size/impedance? That might change a lot on which amp is best for your use."
I've been experimenting lately with 4" drivers. (Full Range/Dual Cone and Coaxial) I find within that size range, a tweeter "Usually" isn't needed. Whizzer cones does enough. BSC helps balance things out and if I lose too much sparkle, I'll add a Piezo..
Impedance.. 4 or 8 ohm.. Usually single driver per channel. (L/R) Been experimenting with Mono systems with good results. Most portable units are not big enough to mess with stereo it seems..
I like paper cones but have better luck with poly. Not as harsh with smoother mids. Just a warmer sound, IMO..
I'm not looking for mega watts. Somewhere in the 10/25 watt region.. Perhaps Mono.. Something that isn't going to chew a battery up in a couple hours..
The thing I'm trying to allude is the reference oscillator noise in digital amps. They destroy an FM receiver! I've played around with some smaller analog amps (TDA2030) but they just don't have the punch I'm looking for. Not much headroom and they distort easily. They work fine with an FM receiver, though..
Ground loop issues.. I have resolved! The isolators (the good ones) are a little pricy but they are good. The ElCheepos are junk! Trust me.. I've tried most all of them..
Not looking for anything fancy. Just a good, solid analog amp that I don't have to mess around with a bunch of ferrites and caps to get rid of the garbage! I don't mind losing some efficiency for the fact of simplicity..
"@OffGridKindaGuy: What kind of speaker(s) do you want to use? Type/size/impedance? That might change a lot on which amp is best for your use."
I've been experimenting lately with 4" drivers. (Full Range/Dual Cone and Coaxial) I find within that size range, a tweeter "Usually" isn't needed. Whizzer cones does enough. BSC helps balance things out and if I lose too much sparkle, I'll add a Piezo..
Impedance.. 4 or 8 ohm.. Usually single driver per channel. (L/R) Been experimenting with Mono systems with good results. Most portable units are not big enough to mess with stereo it seems..
I like paper cones but have better luck with poly. Not as harsh with smoother mids. Just a warmer sound, IMO..
I'm not looking for mega watts. Somewhere in the 10/25 watt region.. Perhaps Mono.. Something that isn't going to chew a battery up in a couple hours..
The thing I'm trying to allude is the reference oscillator noise in digital amps. They destroy an FM receiver! I've played around with some smaller analog amps (TDA2030) but they just don't have the punch I'm looking for. Not much headroom and they distort easily. They work fine with an FM receiver, though..
Ground loop issues.. I have resolved! The isolators (the good ones) are a little pricy but they are good. The ElCheepos are junk! Trust me.. I've tried most all of them..
Not looking for anything fancy. Just a good, solid analog amp that I don't have to mess around with a bunch of ferrites and caps to get rid of the garbage! I don't mind losing some efficiency for the fact of simplicity..
On and off I would study the Tripath products.
Maybe wrong but seemed like is only hi-volume OEMs?
The IR driver looked ok. But looked at anything even the self-osc.
I spent a month on one of the hi end Ti parts, bought an evm , layed out a board then found out it had non-conforming. So dumped the d class until things improved. Then the tpa 311x parts came along. They are keepers.
Maybe wrong but seemed like is only hi-volume OEMs?
The IR driver looked ok. But looked at anything even the self-osc.
I spent a month on one of the hi end Ti parts, bought an evm , layed out a board then found out it had non-conforming. So dumped the d class until things improved. Then the tpa 311x parts came along. They are keepers.
I already ordered a couple of these and they are on the inbound boat. They don't have any filtering but they will give me something to play with..
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There are more complex boards with filtering and such. Any suggestions on which one would work well with an FM receiver? Perhaps with less power out?
Thanks Guys..
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There are more complex boards with filtering and such. Any suggestions on which one would work well with an FM receiver? Perhaps with less power out?
Thanks Guys..
Hi-volume makes them cheap, which is good. And since they sound good, I don't see a problem there.
Gee, you don't have windows or a door at your house and complain about heating costs and suff getting stolen?
1. Use boards with output filters.
2. Use shielding (metal enclosure).
Yeah, if the door of your house is missing, the most logical choice is to buy a different house.
Gee, you don't have windows or a door at your house and complain about heating costs and suff getting stolen?
1. Use boards with output filters.
2. Use shielding (metal enclosure).
As for my original suggestion/question..
I'm asking you folks with experience to guide me to a nice board that would work in my situation. You suggest remedies but isn't there a product that you would purchase and not have the need to fool around for weeks looking for parts and a bunch of modification time? If I must, I can and will but it's hard to believe that there isn't an amp out there with the remedies already built in..
I don't have a warehouse of parts, nor do I have the knowledge to assure that I'm researching for the correct parts. I'm a hobbyist, not an engineer..
You have answered exactly NONE of my six questions of my several posts. If you don't answer any of these, I can NOT recommend anything as that would just be guessing.
You have answered exactly NONE of my six questions of my several posts. If you don't answer any of these, I can NOT recommend anything as that would just be guessing.
Hmm..
I believe my very first post and post #7 pretty much sums things up..
I'm not looking for an anti-gravity machine. The FM frequency receiver range is between 88-108 mHz. over here. All I was asking for was an educated suggestion for an amp that would operate frugally on a 12 v.d.c. battery and not destroy an FM receiver..
Let's Review..
#1)What do you need? #2)How much power, how expensive? #3)What type of battery do you want to use? #4)What runtime is needed?
#1_Please read above..
#2_Less than 15 - 20 watts per channel.. Perhaps Mono.. / Bargains are always welcome..
#3_As stated.. 12 volt LiPo rechargeable..
#4_ Not an issue. I can always add more aHr's if needed to fit my needs..
I will apologize if my English is broken. I just wanted some simple suggestions and direction to a unit that may fit my needs. Allow me to decide if I should make the investment..
BTW.. My home does have windows and doors. I should know. I built it..
Sarcasms don't gain merit. Honest, educated suggestions go much further..
You never said anything but the voltage. The capacity is important and that's why I asked.
#2_Less than 15 - 20 watts per channel.. Perhaps Mono.. / Bargains are always welcome..
..and still nothing about the load? Nothing on the speaker.. at all?
Okay, get a TDA7492 or TPA3116 board with output filters. Preferably the latter. If that's still too much noise, get some distance between the FM receiver/antenna and the amp and/or use a tin sheet metal enclosure for the amp. You'll get ~8W on 8 Ohm and double at 4 Ohm. If that's not enough, get a DC/DC voltage converter/doubler.BTW.. My home does have windows and doors. I should know. I built it..
Sarcasms don't gain merit. Honest, educated suggestions go much further..
You did not want to read the reasons for the noise before. That was a good matched analogy. You chose to ignore my post before, I told you already what to do. Don't complain about a drafty bedroom (FM noise) if you don't have windows (output filters).
Quoting myself from an earlier post..
From my very first post..
"Please lead me, in you're opinions, to an alternative "Type" of amp that doesn't emit a bunch of crap but likes to operate on a battery in a portable situation. I focus around 12 v.d.c. liPo type batteries and I don't need mega high wattage. Anything within reason with 12 volts.."
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From my very first post..
"Please lead me, in you're opinions, to an alternative "Type" of amp that doesn't emit a bunch of crap but likes to operate on a battery in a portable situation. I focus around 12 v.d.c. liPo type batteries and I don't need mega high wattage. Anything within reason with 12 volts.."
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