As you got no reply from TP60 owners, I will give it a chance.
The TP60 is TA2022 (chip) based and I have an TA2022 amplifier board.
The TA2022-chip has got no error function that latches such that you have to restart the amplifier.
The TP60 has got a protection circuit with a relay (I see from photos). Do you have an impression if it is the protection circuit that disconnects one channel?
Are you familiar with electronics, willing to open your TP60 and do measurements (with a multimeter)?
The TP60 is TA2022 (chip) based and I have an TA2022 amplifier board.
The TA2022-chip has got no error function that latches such that you have to restart the amplifier.
The TP60 has got a protection circuit with a relay (I see from photos). Do you have an impression if it is the protection circuit that disconnects one channel?
Are you familiar with electronics, willing to open your TP60 and do measurements (with a multimeter)?
Unfortunately, both Jonse and Jonse's right TP60 channel dropped out so nothing more has happened to my knowledge.
What I wrote in my previous posting is not correct. Studying the datasheet carefully (page 24), the over-current detection circuit latches such that a restart (or toggling of the mute-pin) is necessary. The datasheet is not explicit about this but it is implied that such over-current latching has effect on both channels, not only one.
Just to make it clear, the TA2022 sounds really great when it works as intended. At present, I have serious hiss at supply voltages above 30V (+/-). Other have a channel that without apparent cause turns off. I don't have this sudden turn-off. Therefore, I suggest we join forces and try to figure out if it is circuit flaws or a chip-flaws that are behind these unintended effects.
Are you willing to assist in such analysis? It will not involve dramatic efforts – mainly some information about how your TP60 behaves and perhaps some measurements with a multimeter.
What I wrote in my previous posting is not correct. Studying the datasheet carefully (page 24), the over-current detection circuit latches such that a restart (or toggling of the mute-pin) is necessary. The datasheet is not explicit about this but it is implied that such over-current latching has effect on both channels, not only one.
Just to make it clear, the TA2022 sounds really great when it works as intended. At present, I have serious hiss at supply voltages above 30V (+/-). Other have a channel that without apparent cause turns off. I don't have this sudden turn-off. Therefore, I suggest we join forces and try to figure out if it is circuit flaws or a chip-flaws that are behind these unintended effects.
Are you willing to assist in such analysis? It will not involve dramatic efforts – mainly some information about how your TP60 behaves and perhaps some measurements with a multimeter.
:bump:
I also have a TP60 where the right channel drops out after a couple hours. Its bought dec 2017. I got it from a friend who told me about the issue, and i have now had it running for a couple hours on low-med volume, and the right channel has gone silent, as he said it would.
I am somewhat familiar with electronics, and am happy to do measurements if given "directions" ��
I also have a TP60 where the right channel drops out after a couple hours. Its bought dec 2017. I got it from a friend who told me about the issue, and i have now had it running for a couple hours on low-med volume, and the right channel has gone silent, as he said it would.
I am somewhat familiar with electronics, and am happy to do measurements if given "directions" ��
Hi Strozzi,
Good to see someone who will help solving this mystery.
For all three it is the right channel that fails.
I helped another guy who had the same problem but with a Sure TAS5630 based amplifier. Here, changing the output filter choke for that channel solved his problem. He was playing loud, you are not.
Do you have a digital multimeter for measuring voltages and impedances?
I will study the TA2022 datasheet again to get back in the detailed operation.
I will be back.......
Good to see someone who will help solving this mystery.
For all three it is the right channel that fails.
I helped another guy who had the same problem but with a Sure TAS5630 based amplifier. Here, changing the output filter choke for that channel solved his problem. He was playing loud, you are not.
Do you have a digital multimeter for measuring voltages and impedances?
I will study the TA2022 datasheet again to get back in the detailed operation.
I will be back.......
Come to think of it; I think there is a good chance that my amplifier is the exact same one that Jonse originally posted about 
i just bought it, hoping to eventually fix this problem.
Anyway; yes i have a digital multimeter of the standard kind. For measuring connection, voltage, resistance and amperes. If you have the opprtunity to help and give me some pointers, FauxFrench, I m happy to do what i can
i just bought it, hoping to eventually fix this problem.
Anyway; yes i have a digital multimeter of the standard kind. For measuring connection, voltage, resistance and amperes. If you have the opprtunity to help and give me some pointers, FauxFrench, I m happy to do what i can
Speakers : Large 3-way floorstanders, 8 ohm load, 103 dB sensitivity. The woofers is known to dip into 2 ohms. I have never played louder than 12 o'clock with this amp.
I could not feel any heat on the outside of the cabinet.
Update:
I have only had this amp for a few days, and the first day the right channel dropout happened when i was out of the room. But yesterday it happened as i was listening. I noticed a weak crackling sound, like a bad connection. This happened 2-3 times before the channel went silent. My first reaction was to see if i could get it back, and i gave it a little tap/knock in the cabinet, and the sound actually came back..! First at a lower level than the left channel, but i gave it a few more gentle knocks to the cabinet and eventually got it back to full level. I sat back and enjoyed the music for an hour or so with both levels playing normally. So with this in mind, i think i am going to use the amplifier for a few more days and try to "map out" a pattern. And then likely check for bad connections relating to the left channel if the same thing happens several times ��
I could not feel any heat on the outside of the cabinet.
Update:
I have only had this amp for a few days, and the first day the right channel dropout happened when i was out of the room. But yesterday it happened as i was listening. I noticed a weak crackling sound, like a bad connection. This happened 2-3 times before the channel went silent. My first reaction was to see if i could get it back, and i gave it a little tap/knock in the cabinet, and the sound actually came back..! First at a lower level than the left channel, but i gave it a few more gentle knocks to the cabinet and eventually got it back to full level. I sat back and enjoyed the music for an hour or so with both levels playing normally. So with this in mind, i think i am going to use the amplifier for a few more days and try to "map out" a pattern. And then likely check for bad connections relating to the left channel if the same thing happens several times ��
As you conclude yourself, it sounds like a bad connection. I would say you have four "usual suspects": The phono input connector, the volume potentiometer (read the link below), the protection relay and the speaker output connector.
The tapping on the box is a good idea that goes back to the days of vacuum tubes where poor connections were frequent. Tapping often solved the problem for a while.
If it is the phono input-connector: without tapping first, turn the connector around 90degrees one way and then 90degrees the other way. This should overcome a contact problem (rather frequent).
If it is the potentiometer: without power, turn the potentiometer full clock-wise and then full counter-clock-wise 10 times. This will remove oxide layers on the carbon tracks. If your hear scratching noise, turn the volume a bit up and then a bit down a couple of times. If it removes the noise, it is likely the potentiometer is the culprit.
The protection relay has a hard life switching in and out the important speaker current. The way to rework the relay is by removing the plastic cap, turn the amplifier around, spray contact cleaning spray on the contacts (twice) such that the spray drips away from the PCB and put the plastic cap back on (after drying).
If it is the speaker output connector, you check that the nuts are well tightened for all the four banana-type connectors.
The last two "repairs require the amplifier cover to be removed.
Another forum member had a similar problem: Topping TP-60 - help with diagnosing fault
Let me hear if you are successful with mapping of the fault-pattern.
The tapping on the box is a good idea that goes back to the days of vacuum tubes where poor connections were frequent. Tapping often solved the problem for a while.
If it is the phono input-connector: without tapping first, turn the connector around 90degrees one way and then 90degrees the other way. This should overcome a contact problem (rather frequent).
If it is the potentiometer: without power, turn the potentiometer full clock-wise and then full counter-clock-wise 10 times. This will remove oxide layers on the carbon tracks. If your hear scratching noise, turn the volume a bit up and then a bit down a couple of times. If it removes the noise, it is likely the potentiometer is the culprit.
The protection relay has a hard life switching in and out the important speaker current. The way to rework the relay is by removing the plastic cap, turn the amplifier around, spray contact cleaning spray on the contacts (twice) such that the spray drips away from the PCB and put the plastic cap back on (after drying).
If it is the speaker output connector, you check that the nuts are well tightened for all the four banana-type connectors.
The last two "repairs require the amplifier cover to be removed.
Another forum member had a similar problem: Topping TP-60 - help with diagnosing fault
Let me hear if you are successful with mapping of the fault-pattern.
Last edited:
Update
Just a little update:
since the last 'incident' with the right channel dropping out, the amplifier has been performing excellent. It has been no more dropouts or anything, and i have used it and listened to music almost every day. The amp has more or less been powered on 24/7, but i have turned it on/off a few times without problems.
So "when it works, dont fix it"?
Just a little update:
since the last 'incident' with the right channel dropping out, the amplifier has been performing excellent. It has been no more dropouts or anything, and i have used it and listened to music almost every day. The amp has more or less been powered on 24/7, but i have turned it on/off a few times without problems.
So "when it works, dont fix it"?
Hi Strozzi,
It is VERY difficult to find intermittent faults. You can measure a lot of values that all look fine and just before you have to go to bed the fault appears but it is too late to start measuring again. Next day all is fine. Frustrating!
"If it works, don't fix it" is the right approach. Wait until you have a (almost) steady fault. Until then, believe in an improvement of the amplifiers karma.
Thanks for letting us know the reason for not being on the thread recently. Those I have had contact with are all pleased with the sound and only a few have this particular but infrequent problem with right channel as I recall it. Those without the problem evidently can't help and those with the problem have to wait until the rare moments it appears.
Only one law can always be relied upon - Murphy's Law: If anything possibly can go wrong, it will.
It is VERY difficult to find intermittent faults. You can measure a lot of values that all look fine and just before you have to go to bed the fault appears but it is too late to start measuring again. Next day all is fine. Frustrating!
"If it works, don't fix it" is the right approach. Wait until you have a (almost) steady fault. Until then, believe in an improvement of the amplifiers karma.
Thanks for letting us know the reason for not being on the thread recently. Those I have had contact with are all pleased with the sound and only a few have this particular but infrequent problem with right channel as I recall it. Those without the problem evidently can't help and those with the problem have to wait until the rare moments it appears.
Only one law can always be relied upon - Murphy's Law: If anything possibly can go wrong, it will.
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