If you compare the LM1875 and LM1876 from the datasheets, there are some significant differences in particular for quiescent current. Judged on that, I wouldn't say that LM1876 is a double LM1875. The LM1876 seems a bit more performing.
LM1875 needs a boucherot-cell at the output, LM1876 not,
LM1876 is stated by TI to be from the Overture-series, LM1875 not.
But, both of them are no doubt well performing.
LM1875 needs a boucherot-cell at the output, LM1876 not,
LM1876 is stated by TI to be from the Overture-series, LM1875 not.
But, both of them are no doubt well performing.
You are right, why few LM1876 boards?
LM1875 probably earned its reputation and popularity back in days where the competitors were less and symmetrical (+/-) power supplies accepted. Like for the Tripath chips, the popularity today may relate to the past.
LM1876 arrived at a time where bridge-coupled amplifiers were on the market and required only a single supply voltage. Or, if you were willing to use a symmetrical power supply, you had some very powerful TDA7293 and LM3886 as alternatives. Perhaps the LM1876 simply got squeezed in the competition.
Anyway, it seems to be a very nice chip and one day, when time allows, I will build myself a LM1876 amplifier.
LM1875 probably earned its reputation and popularity back in days where the competitors were less and symmetrical (+/-) power supplies accepted. Like for the Tripath chips, the popularity today may relate to the past.
LM1876 arrived at a time where bridge-coupled amplifiers were on the market and required only a single supply voltage. Or, if you were willing to use a symmetrical power supply, you had some very powerful TDA7293 and LM3886 as alternatives. Perhaps the LM1876 simply got squeezed in the competition.
Anyway, it seems to be a very nice chip and one day, when time allows, I will build myself a LM1876 amplifier.
My 1st try in diy-audio was the LM1875 China kit with the blue PCB (wich may also be seen on yt @ johnaudiotech). It has become really cheap (1,70€ I think at the moment, it was about 6,00€ when I ordered it), but both circuits worked at first try and I am really impressed. I've built two little 2-way speakers, 8 liters closed, 1x Gradient W130 AL 8 & a Monacor DTM104/8 1" tweeter with just a capacitor as highpass in front of the tweeter.
Sure this isn't a setup for these deep, growling, wall shaking frequencies all people seem to like most. I am on a very very small budget, but hey, if there is a God, he loves low cost Subwoofers. The 8" Mivoc AW 2000 costs just 35€ and fits the two 5" Gradient speakers pretty good. The subwoofer has a 11liter closed enclosure and is driven by another China chipamp-kit wich has two TDA7293 in parallel mode.
It's all still under construction but I'm totally blewn away how good this combination sounds as it is. As a music player I'm using my Soundcard, an Asus Xonar D2X, wich works as a subwoofer crossover, too. I set the cutting frequency at 74Hz and that sounds pretty ok for me.
My room has about 40m² and I can say, it sounds great and if I wanted to, i could wake up the complete neighbourhood. So max. volume isn't a problem either.
Some people may be a bit sceptical about the LM1875 with just about 20 - 25W, and sure, it's not made for driving 15" woofers or 4-way passive monsters, but with a potent psu with some electrolytic capacitors its a fine chipamp. I'm planning to go from 2-way to 2.5-way by adding another 5" Gradient just to put 1 or 2 dB in the "woofer- gap" and as I have some more LM1875 chips, each chassis will get it's own chipamp. I'm an absolute beginner in diy- audio, but I read much and at the moment I'm trying to get into the Equalizer APO and I'm building a PC for audio measurements. It's all new for me, and it wil take a while, but I'm totally motivated because the music sounds soo good now
And, I'm going to buy another AW 2000 + chipamp and I'm curious how they sound in BR enclosures (each it's own).
What I wanted to say, I'm totally into the LM1875!
Some pics (as I wrote, "under construction" the chipamps will be mounted in the speakers, somewhen ...)
Greetings J.
I love when someone make something with little money. This lm1875 is ideal for that, 1.6$ x 2 for complete kits ( which sound good ), psu blue board 2$, 4 caps, diode bridge, old transformer and 2 intel old heatsinks. Anyone can make this. Its great.
I was also considering lm1876 before buying lm1875 board. Few options that was in my radar as follows:
1.LM1876 amplifier board finished ( with speaker protection )-in Integrated Circuits from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
2.LM1876 DC servo current negative feedback Constant current / high fidelity amplifier board parts DIY Kit 30W*2-in Integrated Circuits from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
3.LM1876 Amplifier HiFi Stereo amp Assembled Board-in Electricity Generation from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
I was leaning towards the 2nd board. But decided against lm1876 as I have thought I will get more accurate suggestions for lm1875 due to the popularity.
1.LM1876 amplifier board finished ( with speaker protection )-in Integrated Circuits from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
2.LM1876 DC servo current negative feedback Constant current / high fidelity amplifier board parts DIY Kit 30W*2-in Integrated Circuits from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
3.LM1876 Amplifier HiFi Stereo amp Assembled Board-in Electricity Generation from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
I was leaning towards the 2nd board. But decided against lm1876 as I have thought I will get more accurate suggestions for lm1875 due to the popularity.
I have not tried LM1875 yet because I cannot source this thing in my area, even LM1876 are already not easy available. The boards for LM1876 are easy to get online. LM1875 boards are bit difficult to find. I found out LM1876 is easy to power even with a 18v@50va center tapped transformers. Total building cost is around 18usd. Most expensive is the transformer which is costing about 9usd. LM1876 around 4usd.
I bought two of those number 3 boards what r_kalar_2 posted, from ebay. No problems so far. I soldered off the bridge diode and supply caps because I already have those in my case. Work in progress so I can't yet say much about it, but preliminary tests seem very promising. A bit darker than my current TDA7375, but seems to be better in every other way.
I suggest, if you are not on a tight budget then you may consider buying board only and get original IC from a reputed seller/distributor. This way you can get benefits of original IC.
It's very difficult here to find an authentic one. I have to buy from overseas. Problem is the shipping cost. So it isn't cheaper diy route. But you are right. This way the authenticity of the IC is assured.
Ok. I just back from the local electronic shop, they still have some left but I'm looking for a LM4766 and they don't have it.
Thanks for the answer. I remembered this in the exact opposite direction. From now on, I won't forget that. Again something learned
It's second nature to me. It's like bigger woofer = bigger bass (a generalization of course).
Pity your answer couldn't safe this poor chipamp. Must have been something like what happened '86 in Tschernobyl. My luck I had the camera at hand ...
Some of those TDA chips will blow up with just one bad solder joint on the board.
I had a big Sanken output transistor partially vaporize in an awesome corona while I was poking around the driver transistors with my VOM. Further inspection revealed that 3 of the 4 driver transistors had almost completely unsoldered themselves from the board. I could pull them out like a loose tooth, without desoldering them.
All prototypes and test setups of power amplifiers must have robust connections all around. No alligator clips, even on the input. Solder everything. Otherwise you may see the magic smoke, and it might be coming from your speakers.
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