Gainclone building thread based on BrianGT's boards - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Chip Amps

Chip Amps Amplifiers based on integrated circuits

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 24th March 2004, 03:26 AM   #1
meat is offline meat  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: AZ
Default Gainclone building thread based on BrianGT's boards

I haven't started building my Gainclone amp yet, but since others have, I figured I would start a new thread where people can discuss the building process or ask questions, rather than fill up the group buy thread. So post away!
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2004, 03:40 AM   #2
tg3 is offline tg3  United States
diyAudio Member
 
tg3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Seattle, WA
Can't build anything until my Cardas group order comes in...
__________________
Folly befits a fool.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2004, 04:21 AM   #3
BrianGT is offline BrianGT  United States
diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
 
BrianGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: near Atlanta, GA
Send a message via AIM to BrianGT
Quote:
Originally posted by tg3
Can't build anything until my Cardas group order comes in...
That is what I said about my Aleph projects... and the Cardas posts came in, and are still sitting on the shelf.

I also have piles of heatsinks scattered all over my apartment... (8+8+4+4=24 heatsinks waiting to be used)

If anyone hasn't seen my gainclone build pictures, please visit my gallery:
http://brian.darg.net/gallery/nigc-kit
It should be fairly thorough. These pictures will be in the manual, along with schematics and descriptions.

Sorry for the delay in the manual, but I am still working hard to get all the kits done. Hopefully I should get most of the remaining kits done tonight and ready for Meredith to start shipping out tommorrow.

--
Brian
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2004, 05:01 AM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Oregon, USA
What's a rough guideline for the fuse rating to use? I have a 250VA 25-0-25 transformer. I'm assuming I should get a slo-blo, since it's a toroid?
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2004, 11:48 AM   #5
speaker is offline speaker  United States
diyAudio Member
 
speaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: USA
Quote:
Originally posted by BrianGT



If anyone hasn't seen my gainclone build pictures, please visit my gallery:
http://brian.darg.net/gallery/nigc-kit
It should be fairly thorough. These pictures will be in the manual, along with schematics and descriptions.

Sorry for the delay in the manual, but I am still working hard to get all the kits done. Hopefully I should get most of the remaining kits done tonight and ready for Meredith to start shipping out tommorrow.

--
Brian

Brian:

Excuse the n00b q, Why is the precision resistor snugged up to the LM3875?

speaker
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2004, 01:50 PM   #6
meat is offline meat  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: AZ
Quote:
Excuse the n00b q, Why is the precision resistor snugged up to the LM3875?

I believe he said that it was very important that they be as close as possible. There are 2 ways you can do it. You can solder it as shown, or solder it to the ends of those pins on the bottom side of the board.

There is more information on the top of this thread

Group order of non-inverted LM3875 pc boards? Anyone interested?
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2004, 02:12 PM   #7
BrianGT is offline BrianGT  United States
diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
 
BrianGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: near Atlanta, GA
Send a message via AIM to BrianGT
Quote:
Originally posted by speaker
Brian:

Excuse the n00b q, Why is the precision resistor snugged up to the LM3875?
The resistor is the negative feedback resistor. In order to obtain the best performance from the LM3875, the feedback look must be as short as possible. This component has the most effect on the amplifier's performance.

This resistor can be soldered right in front of the lm3875, or on the bottom side of the pcb.

--
Brian
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2004, 02:32 PM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Oregon, USA
Can anyone answer my fuse question please?
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2004, 03:27 PM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: california
Talking Fuse

I think a 1.5A to 2A fuse should be enough. Not sure if you need a slow blow type though since the inrush current should be small. If you read other threads the general comment is to keep trying different fuses until they stop blowing! :-)

cheers
vsr
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2004, 03:36 PM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Oregon, USA
Thanks. That's about what I was thinking.

Quote:
keep trying different fuses until they stop blowing
That's a nice scientific way to approach the problem
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 06:51 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2