Gainclone building thread based on BrianGT's boards - Page 51

EC8010 · 27th May 2004, 11:31 PM

A 50W thermostatically-controlled iron will be far safer to PCBs than a 35W uncontrolled firestick.

slappomatt · 28th May 2004, 04:49 AM

ok im an idiot. i wired the V+ and the pg+ backwards
but luckily i fixed it and it still works

going to wire the pot as wildman noted right now. hope it works. i should get my dang camera by tuesday i hope. ebayer is lagging. but as soon as i do ill post picks. came out pretty decent i think. billet aluminum case with phenolic rear pannel with all the connectors int he rear and the noble pot in the front left. nice and small. hope there isnt issues with everything right next to each other.

slappomatt · 28th May 2004, 05:19 AM

got it all wired up and its playing right now. sounds decent. any word on how long they take to break in?

S.C · 28th May 2004, 05:47 AM

yes! I tested mine again, and nothing flied ! I'm really happy now

Devil_H@ck · 28th May 2004, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Yesh
...I'm a newbie to sodering, so I read the part of his PDF manual about sodering. He mentioned not using an Iron rated above 35w. So I went out and bough a Weller WES51 soddering station. But it's small iron is rated 50w. Though it does have heat control.

If I turn the heat all the way down do ya'll think it will work well sodering PCBs? Or should I buy a new iron rated lower for this Weller WES51?...

A solder station is way over the top for this, but I guess the temp control is nice

. Sure it'll do. I'm not sure about the temperature, I believe 350°C is OK, but then again I might be completely wrong and it should be 500°C. I'm sure someone here will tell you what a good temp is

.

Yesh · 28th May 2004, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Devil_H@ck
A solder station is way over the top for this,

Ya sort of. I had a 15W "fire Stick" :-) and it just wasn't cutting it on my earlier PCB test/learning sodering. Guess I went a bit far in the other direction.

Quote:

Originally posted by Devil_H@ck
I'm sure someone here will tell you what a good temp is .

Yes! I suppose that's what I need to know.

What is a good temp to use for my Weller on PCBs?

Yesh · 28th May 2004, 07:09 PM

Iron Temps Thread
Soldering temperatures (resistors, caps, transistors)

Please comment more if you feel so compelled.

Jimmy154 · 28th May 2004, 07:25 PM

Does any one know anything about this transformer? Will it work in a gainclone? How do I measure it (if I need to, that is)? It is out of a subwoofer amp (first picture; there's no picture of amp. I don't know how to attach more than one picture).

Black wire is V+ and red is V- and purple and green (or maybe just green?) are for each of the channels. These are just my guesses, does any one know the correct wiring?

carlmart · 28th May 2004, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jimmy154
Does any one know anything about this transformer? Will it work in a gainclone? How do I measure it (if I need to, that is)? It is out of a subwoofer amp (first picture; there's no picture of amp. I don't know how to attach more than one picture).

Black wire is V+ and red is V- and purple and green (or maybe just green?) are for each of the channels. These are just my guesses, does any one know the correct wiring?

In my opinion the green and blue pairs are the primaries, and the red-yellow-red the secondaries.

Measure for continuity between them. The black ones maybe a shield.

With a DMM set for resistance you should be able to get them identified.

Carlos

Jimmy154 · 28th May 2004, 09:34 PM

red-yellow-red have continuity between all three and all the pairs have continuity between each pair. On the sub amp PCB the black wires are labeled as "primary1" and "primary2." The black wires go to the plug in the sub amp. I don't have a DMM (just analog multimeter; measures only Kohm), can it be determined without one?

27th May 2004, 11:31 PM	#501
EC8010 diyAudio Moderator Emeritus Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Near London. UK	A 50W thermostatically-controlled iron will be far safer to PCBs than a 35W uncontrolled firestick. __________________ The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference...

28th May 2004, 07:09 PM	#507
Yesh diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: North Carolina	I found a thread about Iron Temps Iron Temps Thread Soldering temperatures (resistors, caps, transistors) Please comment more if you feel so compelled.

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28th May 2004, 04:49 AM	#502
slappomatt diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: san diego	ok im an idiot. i wired the V+ and the pg+ backwards but luckily i fixed it and it still works going to wire the pot as wildman noted right now. hope it works. i should get my dang camera by tuesday i hope. ebayer is lagging. but as soon as i do ill post picks. came out pretty decent i think. billet aluminum case with phenolic rear pannel with all the connectors int he rear and the noble pot in the front left. nice and small. hope there isnt issues with everything right next to each other.

28th May 2004, 05:19 AM	#503
slappomatt diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: san diego	got it all wired up and its playing right now. sounds decent. any word on how long they take to break in?

28th May 2004, 05:47 AM	#504
S.C diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Milpitas	yes! I tested mine again, and nothing flied ! I'm really happy now

28th May 2004, 09:34 PM	#510
Jimmy154 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: NH, USA	red-yellow-red have continuity between all three and all the pairs have continuity between each pair. On the sub amp PCB the black wires are labeled as "primary1" and "primary2." The black wires go to the plug in the sub amp. I don't have a DMM (just analog multimeter; measures only Kohm), can it be determined without one?