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Chip Amps Amplifiers based on integrated circuits

Technics SUV4X  runs cool!
Technics SUV4X  runs cool!
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Old 3rd June 2017, 09:03 AM   #11
SVI2004A is offline SVI2004A  New Zealand
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Location: Feeding eels in a stream near you
Technics SUV4X  runs cool!
I'd check for dry joints on Q501-4 or replace them...

DC offset is within AN7062 - check after dealing with pre drive

I had one V4X I had to replace the AN7062 as I had 112mv iirc on one channel. !! Beware of eBay fakes !! A known good one still has the 3 point triangle triskellion logo.. the fakes have a hard to read p/n and M in a square...
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I remember when amps were amps & speakers were nervous!
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Old 3rd June 2017, 09:09 AM   #12
SVI2004A is offline SVI2004A  New Zealand
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Location: Feeding eels in a stream near you
Technics SUV4X  runs cool!
Have 25 or so V4X amps I'm my collection now...

Here is a useful tidbit of info... you can decode what day your amps are made
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Old 4th June 2017, 09:59 AM   #13
ssi is offline ssi  United Kingdom
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Hi. Need some help. Changed Q501 to Q504 but made a bit of a mess with the desoldering so had to create some repalcement copper tracks with some solder for Q501/2 - you live and learn. Also changed speaker terminals but left channel keeps dropping and dc going up and down. Checked all soldering but cannot work it out. Safety operation all OK. No drop in left channel sound through headphones. Sometimes work OK but if you turn it off and on again sound becomes varuable on left channel. Recovers to some degree if you turn up the volume so something is not getting through. Help!

Thanks
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Old 4th June 2017, 12:55 PM   #14
ssi is offline ssi  United Kingdom
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Hi

May have fixed my problem but may be too earlyto call!. It was Q701 - one of the legs had a dry solder joint. Will have to monitor.

Cheers.
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Old 4th June 2017, 04:02 PM   #15
ssi is offline ssi  United Kingdom
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Default SUV4x New Class A bulbs

Hi All

The bulbs have gone behind the new claas a logo. Any body know where I can get replacements ot equivalents in the UK or elsewhere? I do not know how to fit led's so would prefer replacement of original types.

Best Wishes
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Old 4th June 2017, 04:24 PM   #16
ssi is offline ssi  United Kingdom
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OK

Found a solution in the uk 655-9693 on RS Components
Axial Indicator Light, Clear, 10/15 V, 55 mA, 5000h

Have orderd some and will give it a go! 7.90 for a pack of 10
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Old 6th June 2017, 09:05 AM   #17
SVI2004A is offline SVI2004A  New Zealand
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Sounds like you're on top of it all
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Old 6th June 2017, 07:15 PM   #18
ssi is offline ssi  United Kingdom
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Hi all.

Replaced the bulbs but as I am an amatuer errors galore on the way but a happy ending. Cut the wire too short on one of the "New Class A" bulbs so had to solder an extension on. But then when I was refitting the ribbon cable from the "lights" board to the main circuit board my wife came in and started asking me about something and I fitted it the wrong way round. I switched the amp on and the realy started clicking on and off so I switched it off instantly and corrected it but the safety operation red led had gone. Fortunately I had some red leds and fitted it but the wrong way round (no way of telling as far as I could see). On desoldering the led the copper track came up so I had to fit some wire to reconnect the led the correct way round.

All seems to be working fine now except the new led is a bit bright and some of the circuit boards look an utter soldering mess but it lives and I am learning! The amp only cost me 20 so not doing too badly.

Last edited by ssi; 6th June 2017 at 07:20 PM.
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Old 6th June 2017, 07:21 PM   #19
SVI2004A is offline SVI2004A  New Zealand
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Technics SUV4X  runs cool!
Daymn.... do be sure to plug cables in correctly - 12Vac was back feeding to the Icq controller area... good to hear it's all still going... prolly has now only 8 lives left
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Old 7th June 2017, 05:23 AM   #20
ssi is offline ssi  United Kingdom
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Yes, I know it was a bit stupid as I had noted the white stripe on the ribbon cable to make sure I put it back on the correct way round! Still it lives for now.

Anyway learned about LED's:
"On the physical LED, the longer lead (or leg) of the LED is the anode. The cathode is marked on the rim of the LED body with a flat area shown in the diagram.
Another way to tell which lead is the anode and which is the cathode is to look at the two plates at the end of the leads inside the body of the LED. The bigger plate will be the cathode." From https://startingelectronics.org/begi...omponents/LED/
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