Making My Own PCBs

[soundNERD]

Hi everybody!!

Right now I use the toner transfer method for making custom PCB boards. I don't waste money on those overpriced specialty papers designed for this. I just use the glossy cardstock paper from kinkos. The problem is that not all of the toner ever transfers, Also, some of the paper peels off in layers leaving some stuck between traces and inside pads.

I need to know what is the best way to do this without spending a fourtune on a special piece of glossy paper? I can't find any glossy laser besides what i have now, and i know inkjet would melt in a laser printer.

What about laser transparencies? They wouldn't have that leftover paper problem and probably not the problem with the toner tranfering to the paper since the toner would stick to plastic less than paper. Right?? But another thing i see with transparencies are it melting when put under the iron for three minutes.

Heres how I do it now:
1. Design the pcb. Only mirror it if it is a surface mount pcb.
2. print onto the paper using a laser printer
3. iron for three minutes onto the board
4. put into hot water for 30 minutes
then the rest such as etching, cleaning, drilling, etc.

what is the best cheap way to make pcbs???

Thanks!!
-Mike

 

[Kermit]

What about laser transparencies? They wouldn't have that leftover paper problem and probably not the problem with the toner tranfering to the paper since the toner would stick to plastic less than paper. Right?? But another thing i see with transparencies are it melting when put under the iron for three minutes.

Tried that. Not recommended. The transparencies tend to wrinkle under the iron, furthermore smudging of the toner will seriously degrade the end result. Expect lots of touch-up and poor clearance.

 

[soundNERD]

OK, thanks. Can they melt though? I don't think there is a method worse than what I have now so I can get it for like 50 cents a sheet so I am wondering if it is at all worth a try.

Any other ideas though?

This is a new laser printer so I am not willing to try anything that poses a risk of damage at all.

Thanks, Mike

 

[Magura]

Ive made a few PCB's. Ive allways been using a transperant printed on a laserprinter, photo printboard and exposing it across the street in the "sun" at the fitness center. It works well and is dirt cheap to do.

Magura

 

[soundNERD]

yes, but the problem with that is having to put it in developer which I don't have,

I want to stick with the toner transfer method.

or some pcb company that is cheaper than making them manually.


Thanks!
-Mike

 

[Alcaid]

How long do you expose it at the solarium?

 

[soundNERD]

the what??

 

[Alcaid]

Ops.. the "sun" at the fitness center is called a solarium in Norway, maybe also in Denmark?

 

[Magura]

It obviously differs from solarium to solarium, the one they got across the street needs approx 7 minutes.

It will have to be determined by trial and error, but i guess thats acceptable considering the advantages of the size and so forth.

A major advantage is that it exposes doublesided boards in one take.

Magura

 

[soundNERD]

I have some negative photo sensative boards, but i still don't have the developer. where can i find it for cheap??

Thanks!
-Mike

 

[Alcaid]

Hmmm... might try that, but it's more expensive to buy pre-sensitised boards and developer though...

 

[Magura]

Farnell or RS components

Magura

 

[StratoFan]

For home PCB creation I used two methods. Earlier, when I used printer and transparent film, after printing I used this spray to make better density:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

This spray solved lot of problems.

But now I stopped to use this method, I order films created by imagesetter which using by printing offices. Imagesetter is much more better than home printers, I think the prices is not too high if you want to make more than one pcb with the film. The film is absolute exact, no problem with double sided PCBs, possible to make 0.3-0.4 mm lines without problems.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

If somebody interesting how it is works, here is my page about pcb creation with unintelligible language but with numerous pictures.

comics about pcb creation

page about imagesettings

 

[Alcaid]

Yes, but it still is more expensive than ironing on the design. The result will be better with photo method though, so I guess you get what you pay for

 

[StratoFan]

Yes this is not the most cheapest method, but easy and good quality

 

[tvi]

You might find the following Yahoo group of interest
Homebrew PCBs

Any method allowed by law and local custom including photo, CAM, toner transfer, direct printing, plotter, laundry pen, silkscreening, toaster oven, paint stripper heat gun, etc.

They have some "Gravy" recipes to coat normal paper for toner transfer.

Hope this helps

Regards
James

 

[soundNERD]

I want to stick with the toner method.

Can anybody suggest the best paper to use?

how do those things such as press and peel work?

Thanks!
-Mike

 

[ppfred]

I want to stick with the toner method.
-Mike

Here's part of an excellent article I found on the www. Unfortunately I don't have the URL but you could do a search for:
"Easy Printed Circuit Board Transfer"
Using Laser Printer Toner Transfer
by Thomas P. Gootee

.....
... Anyway, I finally found a good paper that's always free of pinholes and still removes fairly easily. It also leaves extremely strong toner/traces on the copper, which can be scrubbed fairly hard with a toothbrush, or rubbed very hard by fingers, without being damaged.
It is the JetPrint "Graphic Image Paper, Gloss Finish", Heavy Photo Paper (their product # 02735-0), made by International Paper Co. They also make a product called JetPrint "Multi-Project Paper, Gloss Finish", Medium Weight (their product # 07033-0), which almost falls off the board by itself, after soaking for 10 minutes. Alas, it sometimes has pinholes. (I use an older HP LaserJet 4. Your mileage may vary...) However, the Multi-Project paper IS PERFECT for doing the component side markings of circuit boards, and anything else where etching isn't required, such as metal instrument panels.
.....

I hope you find the article.

fred p.

 

[rwaudio]

I've been doing the toner transfer method for quite awhile it's alot easier to make a prototype yourself (in a few mins, instead of waiting a few days to a few weeks) I do everything you stated.... maybe more than 3 mins on the iron, heat it up then apply EVEN pressure to transfer the toner... but I only let the paper sit in water for 15-20 seconds tops... it's enough to let the paper "wet and seperate" but the paper is much more solid and intact and stays in one peice when removed from the board.. I use Boise Cascade semi-gloss coated inkjet paper (in my laser) haven't really tried anything else because this works.. there is usually some "cleaning" between tracks in the tighter spots.. but very little or no touchups...
hope that helps

 

[soundNERD]

Thanks to all,

rwaudio, doesn't inkjet paper melt in lasers? I thought that, but I might be wrong.

what about HP 4x6 glossy inkjet paper or epson 8.5x11 matte inkjet photo paper? Has anybody tried either of those? They are the papers I have and since they are inkjet i am worried about them melting.


Also, that quote ppfred linked to said about making silkscreens with that paper. Is that true? After the etching can I print the silkscreen onto a piece of photo paper and iron it onto the top of the pcb? Would that stay?

Also, has anybody tried that overpriced paper they sell in catalogs?

Finally, how do you protect the board? like professional boards are green, and i think that is a coating. So, could I solder it, then spray some of that stuff on it and over the silkscreen? Where do I get it?


Thanks,
Mike