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Old 14th March 2004, 01:25 PM   #11
Alcaid is offline Alcaid  Norway
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Hmmm... might try that, but it's more expensive to buy pre-sensitised boards and developer though...
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Old 14th March 2004, 01:25 PM   #12
Magura is offline Magura  Denmark
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Farnell or RS components

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Old 14th March 2004, 01:44 PM   #13
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For home PCB creation I used two methods. Earlier, when I used printer and transparent film, after printing I used this spray to make better density:

Click the image to open in full size.

This spray solved lot of problems.

But now I stopped to use this method, I order films created by imagesetter which using by printing offices. Imagesetter is much more better than home printers, I think the prices is not too high if you want to make more than one pcb with the film. The film is absolute exact, no problem with double sided PCBs, possible to make 0.3-0.4 mm lines without problems.

Click the image to open in full size.



If somebody interesting how it is works, here is my page about pcb creation with unintelligible language but with numerous pictures.

comics about pcb creation

page about imagesettings
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Old 14th March 2004, 01:46 PM   #14
Alcaid is offline Alcaid  Norway
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Yes, but it still is more expensive than ironing on the design. The result will be better with photo method though, so I guess you get what you pay for
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Old 14th March 2004, 01:51 PM   #15
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Yes this is not the most cheapest method, but easy and good quality
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Old 14th March 2004, 02:27 PM   #16
tvi is offline tvi  Australia
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You might find the following Yahoo group of interest
Homebrew PCBs

Quote:
Any method allowed by law and local custom including photo, CAM, toner transfer, direct printing, plotter, laundry pen, silkscreening, toaster oven, paint stripper heat gun, etc.
They have some "Gravy" recipes to coat normal paper for toner transfer.

Hope this helps

Regards
James
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Old 15th March 2004, 01:07 AM   #17
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I want to stick with the toner method.

Can anybody suggest the best paper to use?

how do those things such as press and peel work?

Thanks!
-Mike
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Old 15th March 2004, 02:07 AM   #18
ppfred is offline ppfred  Canada
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Quote:
Originally posted by soundNERD
I want to stick with the toner method.
-Mike
Here's part of an excellent article I found on the www. Unfortunately I don't have the URL but you could do a search for:
"Easy Printed Circuit Board Transfer"
Using Laser Printer Toner Transfer
by Thomas P. Gootee

.....
... Anyway, I finally found a good paper that's always free of pinholes and still removes fairly easily. It also leaves extremely strong toner/traces on the copper, which can be scrubbed fairly hard with a toothbrush, or rubbed very hard by fingers, without being damaged.
It is the JetPrint "Graphic Image Paper, Gloss Finish", Heavy Photo Paper (their product # 02735-0), made by International Paper Co. They also make a product called JetPrint "Multi-Project Paper, Gloss Finish", Medium Weight (their product # 07033-0), which almost falls off the board by itself, after soaking for 10 minutes. Alas, it sometimes has pinholes. (I use an older HP LaserJet 4. Your mileage may vary...) However, the Multi-Project paper IS PERFECT for doing the component side markings of circuit boards, and anything else where etching isn't required, such as metal instrument panels.
.....

I hope you find the article.

fred p.
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Old 15th March 2004, 05:11 AM   #19
rwaudio is offline rwaudio  Canada
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I've been doing the toner transfer method for quite awhile it's alot easier to make a prototype yourself (in a few mins, instead of waiting a few days to a few weeks) I do everything you stated.... maybe more than 3 mins on the iron, heat it up then apply EVEN pressure to transfer the toner... but I only let the paper sit in water for 15-20 seconds tops... it's enough to let the paper "wet and seperate" but the paper is much more solid and intact and stays in one peice when removed from the board.. I use Boise Cascade semi-gloss coated inkjet paper (in my laser) haven't really tried anything else because this works.. there is usually some "cleaning" between tracks in the tighter spots.. but very little or no touchups...
hope that helps
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Old 15th March 2004, 11:43 AM   #20
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Thanks to all,

rwaudio, doesn't inkjet paper melt in lasers? I thought that, but I might be wrong.

what about HP 4x6 glossy inkjet paper or epson 8.5x11 matte inkjet photo paper? Has anybody tried either of those? They are the papers I have and since they are inkjet i am worried about them melting.


Also, that quote ppfred linked to said about making silkscreens with that paper. Is that true? After the etching can I print the silkscreen onto a piece of photo paper and iron it onto the top of the pcb? Would that stay?

Also, has anybody tried that overpriced paper they sell in catalogs?

Finally, how do you protect the board? like professional boards are green, and i think that is a coating. So, could I solder it, then spray some of that stuff on it and over the silkscreen? Where do I get it?


Thanks,
Mike
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