My bad ideaMy Old Ugly IGC Plastic Box
A Better idea The Fake Amp - 2 Chassis
After I read Peter's Chassis kit for like a week, I decided to make a chassis for the following NIGC that I will build with Brian's PCB because horizontal chassis is too popular now. I wanted something different. And Peter's Kit tread provided many information that I needed to start my project. However, there was something that I'm unsure of. Plz input some comment/ tips.
"Materials" are pretty expensive, so I don't want to make mistake on this:
Dimensons: Thickness X Width X Height ("=inch)
Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Plate 1 (Left/Right)
0.375" x 7.88" x 6.3"
Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Plate 2 (Front/ Back)
0.375" x 3.35" x 6.3"
Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Plate 3 (Top/bottom)
0.375" x 3.35" x 8.66"
Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Extruded Square
0.75" x 2.56"
Copper 110 Plate
1" x 2.56" x 5.51"
Transformer : Avel Y236750 330VA 25+25V
Dimensons: Diameter 4.8", Height 2.1"
Questions:
1. After I installed the Transformer, I will have enough space to add a stepped attenuator. I think it has space. Do you guys think I should add it, or leave the front panel a lone and build a preamp? ( I hope I can afford Passive Pre.....)
2. I will arrange all the Binding Post, RCA Jacks, AC Inlet, Switch on the back panel. The fuse will be on the bottom. Do you think this is a good idea?
3. how do you guys cut AC inlet hole on Aluminum? Should I change the back panel to a thinner palte? Will it still support the whole standing structure?
4. What kind of screw are you using (Peter)?
plz help
A Better idea The Fake Amp - 2 Chassis
After I read Peter's Chassis kit for like a week, I decided to make a chassis for the following NIGC that I will build with Brian's PCB because horizontal chassis is too popular now. I wanted something different. And Peter's Kit tread provided many information that I needed to start my project. However, there was something that I'm unsure of. Plz input some comment/ tips.
"Materials" are pretty expensive, so I don't want to make mistake on this:
Dimensons: Thickness X Width X Height ("=inch)
Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Plate 1 (Left/Right)
0.375" x 7.88" x 6.3"
Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Plate 2 (Front/ Back)
0.375" x 3.35" x 6.3"
Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Plate 3 (Top/bottom)
0.375" x 3.35" x 8.66"
Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Extruded Square
0.75" x 2.56"
Copper 110 Plate
1" x 2.56" x 5.51"
Transformer : Avel Y236750 330VA 25+25V
Dimensons: Diameter 4.8", Height 2.1"
Questions:
1. After I installed the Transformer, I will have enough space to add a stepped attenuator. I think it has space. Do you guys think I should add it, or leave the front panel a lone and build a preamp? ( I hope I can afford Passive Pre.....)
2. I will arrange all the Binding Post, RCA Jacks, AC Inlet, Switch on the back panel. The fuse will be on the bottom. Do you think this is a good idea?
3. how do you guys cut AC inlet hole on Aluminum? Should I change the back panel to a thinner palte? Will it still support the whole standing structure?
4. What kind of screw are you using (Peter)?
plz help
S.C. - it is nearly impossible for anybody to answer your questions. Without being with you, with the exact same components in front of us, we cannot say what will work and what will not.
Even making my own cases, I can never guarantee success, especially when I try and make a case compact. Even with access to CAD (which I don't have) the odd mistake can creep in.
All I can suggest to give you the best possible chance of completing your case successfully is don't make it too small, in other words allow for something needing more room than it appears to; remember to allow for fixing components, ie how will you get a screwdriver or spanner to it; and probably most important, mock up the case using MDF or plywood first.
As regards your choice of materials, they should be plenty strong enough and whether you can cut the aluminium for the sockets will depend on what tools you have access to but it is not a difficult metal to work with.
Even making my own cases, I can never guarantee success, especially when I try and make a case compact. Even with access to CAD (which I don't have) the odd mistake can creep in.
All I can suggest to give you the best possible chance of completing your case successfully is don't make it too small, in other words allow for something needing more room than it appears to; remember to allow for fixing components, ie how will you get a screwdriver or spanner to it; and probably most important, mock up the case using MDF or plywood first.
As regards your choice of materials, they should be plenty strong enough and whether you can cut the aluminium for the sockets will depend on what tools you have access to but it is not a difficult metal to work with.
Mock up? Some of my best cases have been finished in plywood
. The case I made from tropical hardwood and teak soon found its way to the skip. IMHO plywood is one of the best materials for a case, particularly as it's very forgiving to work with! For rfi rejection just line it with nice thick aluminium foil from your kitchen.The point about leaving enough room for everything is important; unless you are very well practised, nothing less than an over-sized case will work, trust me.
Lots of people seem to use use nylon screws.
>> Yes, I have nothing against wood or plywood either.
I know you are a carpenter at heart (atleast as far as case design goes) but I am looking forward to the next Decibel Dungeon amp in an aluminium (pillaged from a laboratory skip) case, cut with a sharp bread knife and nicely finished with a brillo pad gaffer-taped to the end of a drill (or something like that)
I know you are a carpenter at heart (atleast as far as case design goes) but I am looking forward to the next Decibel Dungeon amp in an aluminium (pillaged from a laboratory skip) case, cut with a sharp bread knife and nicely finished with a brillo pad gaffer-taped to the end of a drill (or something like that)
S.C said:
You have to get 7075T6 if you want to use aluminium still. Its much easier to get a reasonable result with and not as prone to bruises as 6061T6.
Besides that you should make sure you get electrlytically clean copper, anything else will most likely contain something the aluminium dosnt like and cause corrosion.
Magura
You might check this thread as weel. It provides additional info on tapping drilling, finishing and even the srews http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3981&highlight=
I usually like Allen type screws as they loog more professional. I also bore recess for the head, so the screw is flush with the panel (it's explained in the other thread how to do it easily).
You might try to go with ready made extruded bars, so you will have less cutting and finishing to do. But those extrusions come in standard widths with 1/2" variations.
As to the alloy, get whatever is available and cheap. I didn't have any problems with using 6061-T6 as this is the most popular alloy and usually regular stock with most suppliers.
I usually like Allen type screws as they loog more professional. I also bore recess for the head, so the screw is flush with the panel (it's explained in the other thread how to do it easily).
You might try to go with ready made extruded bars, so you will have less cutting and finishing to do. But those extrusions come in standard widths with 1/2" variations.
As to the alloy, get whatever is available and cheap. I didn't have any problems with using 6061-T6 as this is the most popular alloy and usually regular stock with most suppliers.
Tickness of metal?
Thickness.
You could with less thick panels. I'm using a 5"
aluminum channel for sides and 0.1" plates
for bottom and top and back.
The front is 0.25" which is already pretty thick.
If you use 0.375" thick panels it will be nice and
heavy and strong but also a lot of work of drilling
and it'll cost way more money.
Check
www.onlinemetals.com
for materials (Small quantities available).
Harry
Thickness.
You could with less thick panels. I'm using a 5"
aluminum channel for sides and 0.1" plates
for bottom and top and back.
The front is 0.25" which is already pretty thick.
If you use 0.375" thick panels it will be nice and
heavy and strong but also a lot of work of drilling
and it'll cost way more money.
Check
www.onlinemetals.com
for materials (Small quantities available).
Harry
I found it that most of these stores are quite expensive, including online metals.
The shop I got my aluminum from is called speedymetals
just as an illustration of the price, one 9"x3.5" 1/8" (6061-t651) plate cost me $3.78 ..
no minimum orders, no charges for cutting
sadly, no website, but if you email them at speedymtls AT aol DOT com they'll give you a quote (btw, i did the email like that so i don't cause them griefs w/ spam)
The shop I got my aluminum from is called speedymetals
just as an illustration of the price, one 9"x3.5" 1/8" (6061-t651) plate cost me $3.78 ..
no minimum orders, no charges for cutting
sadly, no website, but if you email them at speedymtls AT aol DOT com they'll give you a quote (btw, i did the email like that so i don't cause them griefs w/ spam)
Re: Re: My first attempt to make a chassis
Hehe, I did the cardboard phototype. I think I need to try the wood phototype this time.
Um. Thx e-mail for the address. I will send a quote e-mail. I knew that online metal is quite expensive. That's why I said the materials is kinda expensive in the beginning.
Ohoh, I don't have many tools around, but my cuz used to work in some computer company that will deal with building chassis. He said he will bring me there to use the drill press... tools....
All the tools I have is few srew driver, a drill, and hammer..... If I have a table saw life will be much easier.
Nuuk said:
Hehe, I did the cardboard phototype. I think I need to try the wood phototype this time.
I think my uncle's work place will do the job. He is working in a electric paint something. They paint lke rims, aerodynamic stuffs.Magura said:
Besides that you should make sure you get electrlytically clean copper, anything else will most likely contain something the aluminium dosnt like and cause corrosion.
Magura
elizard said:
Um. Thx e-mail for the address. I will send a quote e-mail. I knew that online metal is quite expensive. That's why I said the materials is kinda expensive in the beginning.
Ohoh, I don't have many tools around, but my cuz used to work in some computer company that will deal with building chassis. He said he will bring me there to use the drill press... tools....
All the tools I have is few srew driver, a drill, and hammer..... If I have a table saw life will be much easier.
Re: Re: Re: My first attempt to make a chassis
speedy will cut them to size for free
i found that their cuts are pretty precise, so nothing to worry about it there
then all you need is a drill (drill press preferred) and a tap to make the threads (plus the basic tools of course, like a screwdriver, etc)
S.C said:
speedy will cut them to size for free
i found that their cuts are pretty precise, so nothing to worry about it there
then all you need is a drill (drill press preferred) and a tap to make the threads (plus the basic tools of course, like a screwdriver, etc)
S.C said:
I rounded up the number, and I think this will make the chassis have enough room. Since my transformer's height is 2.1. My chassis width is 4", actural spacing is 4"-0.375"x2=3.25". It have more than enough space for the transformer and the PCB placing horionztally. The actural length space will be 9"-0.375"x2-4.8"(The Xformer)-1"(The Copper)-1"(the PCB)=1.45" I think this will be enough space for wiring.
Do you guys think a Dremel rotary cut will help me cut the AC Inlet hole on the 3/8" thick aluminum? IF it does help, which one should I pick from HD? $$<100
Working With Metal - File it!
Hope this helps- I have found that files help a whole lot when working with metal. For my AC inlet and XLR connectors, I drilled the biggest hole I could (maybe a 1/2 inch hole) and then used a large file to get it to roughly the correct size, tweaking with smaller files. You can continuously monitor your progress and it actually doesn't take much time, although it does take much effort. For the AC inlet, download a pdf from digikey of the part and outline the dimensions on the panel, then drill a hole and file away. Obviously the thicker the metal, the tougher to file, but even with thick metal its faster than you think.
Here is an example of what I have done:
Kind of crummy, huh? Here is the view from the outside after putting on the connectors with the cover propped on.
Hope this helps- I have found that files help a whole lot when working with metal. For my AC inlet and XLR connectors, I drilled the biggest hole I could (maybe a 1/2 inch hole) and then used a large file to get it to roughly the correct size, tweaking with smaller files. You can continuously monitor your progress and it actually doesn't take much time, although it does take much effort. For the AC inlet, download a pdf from digikey of the part and outline the dimensions on the panel, then drill a hole and file away. Obviously the thicker the metal, the tougher to file, but even with thick metal its faster than you think.
Here is an example of what I have done:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Kind of crummy, huh? Here is the view from the outside after putting on the connectors with the cover propped on.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
S.C.,
Since the Author pannel says you are in Milpitas, I suggest you take a run over HSC at the corner or Central Expressway and Lawrence. Often there is a lot of junk out in from that you can gut for an enclosure -- they come in all sizes and shapes.
Also look in the box (it was there last week) toward the back of the shop near the heatsinks. They have (had?) a pile of rectangular extrusions that just need fron and rear pannels. The extrusion is heavy enough you might make it do doublr duty as the heatsink.
Anyway, if you are doing DIY you really should check out HSC. If nothing else, the place has a long colorful history -- they say Ted Hof and even Wozniak still drop by sometimes to look for useful junk!
Since the Author pannel says you are in Milpitas, I suggest you take a run over HSC at the corner or Central Expressway and Lawrence. Often there is a lot of junk out in from that you can gut for an enclosure -- they come in all sizes and shapes.
Also look in the box (it was there last week) toward the back of the shop near the heatsinks. They have (had?) a pile of rectangular extrusions that just need fron and rear pannels. The extrusion is heavy enough you might make it do doublr duty as the heatsink.
Anyway, if you are doing DIY you really should check out HSC. If nothing else, the place has a long colorful history -- they say Ted Hof and even Wozniak still drop by sometimes to look for useful junk!
hehe, nice to know there is a local who know my area that well. I will go there and see what I get. I had been there a couple times before. Anyway I'm in a good mood right now, cuz I'm one course away from English 1A. I think my English have improved since I come to US. HSC
P.S: Any thought on the Dremel rotary cut? Will I be able to cut through a 3/8" thick aluminum?
HSCP.S: Any thought on the Dremel rotary cut? Will I be able to cut through a 3/8" thick aluminum?
I'm sure you can cut through 3/8" Al with a Dremel but it taked time and may not be very neat. When I needed a front plate, I oredered it pre cut by www.onlinemetals.com. Then I drilled it mayself. Drilling is much easier to be neat about than cutting rectangles.
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