Hey DIYers
I have lm3882 based 2.1 amp with 2*68+120w(parallel). I want to use a car sub "rockford fosgate prime subwoofer r1-s412" with 120w parallel amp. Will it perform good or not. I have heard that car subs can not be used for home. Is that true? Currently I am using an onkyo 8", 130 rms(peak), 6 ohm with this but its performance is not good.
I have lm3882 based 2.1 amp with 2*68+120w(parallel). I want to use a car sub "rockford fosgate prime subwoofer r1-s412" with 120w parallel amp. Will it perform good or not. I have heard that car subs can not be used for home. Is that true? Currently I am using an onkyo 8", 130 rms(peak), 6 ohm with this but its performance is not good.
Using car subs generally don't work well for home applications. Why you may ask?...these subs are designed primarily to function within the car environment, an enclosed space, thus this space is considered in the response of the specific driver, the space almost considered as a horn....they call it "cabin gain".
Further, considering the enclosure size is limited, constrained in a vehicle, the designers must account for this. So now we have a driver that is "compromised" on two levels.
Consider,I have designed a home subwoofer enclosure using a single 12" driver, and running thru a program, I have a response of an F3 of some 15 Hertz, but the enclosure is some 1.25 cubic meters in size....to arrive at the optimal performance.
Further, considering the enclosure size is limited, constrained in a vehicle, the designers must account for this. So now we have a driver that is "compromised" on two levels.
Consider,I have designed a home subwoofer enclosure using a single 12" driver, and running thru a program, I have a response of an F3 of some 15 Hertz, but the enclosure is some 1.25 cubic meters in size....to arrive at the optimal performance.
That's the sub I was referring to when I said 62L minimum.
The thing is that you're going to have to build an enormous box if you want it to be a good subwoofer without any electronic support. And it will give you good performance if you design a good filter.
If you're looking to buy something, there are far better options. The JBL S2-1024, for example. It's a 10", but it will wipe the floor with that Rockford. I haven't seen better for the price of that JBL, but I'm sure there are others here more experienced who have. And if buying, I think it's worth looking at drivers made for home use.
For the Rockford, 62L sealed will give F3 of 35Hz and a theoretical response to 30Hz, which, quite frankly, isn't deep enough. So you need a filter and a lot of power to pull up the lower frequencies, but with the Xmax of 6.5mm, it's not going to be extremely easy. If you're thinking of pushing say 40W, then you're going to need over 600W for response to 20Hz. Don't quote the numbers - this is just a quick way to explain. And I don't think the sub can handle that sort of excursion.
The JBL can use a 62L ported box with a tuning frequency of 25Hz, and will already give you a natural response from 20Hz, so you can use 40W and get full SPL from 20Hz.
The thing is that you can use a MASSIVE box for the Rockford, say 400L, and it might work, but I can't see it being practical. You need very strong bracing, etc, and you may as well spend the extra money on a better driver in the first place.
Car subs are designed to interact with the cabin, so they're usually not good for home use, or they require huge boxes for decent home use.
I used a cheap 10" car sub, it can handle massive excursion, and it works like a dream, but I'm also lucky that it can keep up with my system. And I am driving it from a LM3886, so what you want to do is possible. I just think if you're buying something new, rather post a thread in the subwoofers sub-forum - there are guys there who really know their stuff. Also, I think you can get a good driver designed for indoor use for cheaper than a car sub.
But, as said, a chip amp works beautifully for sub woofers...
Sheesh, now I've rambled on long enough! Good luck with your build!
It depends ...being using a car subwoofer driver for home use ... and it is doing well ... but of course your amplifier needs to be 4 ohms stable ...
you can "force" a car sub o work in your livingroom, sure.
in exchange you will loose impulse response / group delay wise.
if you have a really small room then you might get away with it,
but since it would need a relative large box, it will be impractical.
you can use ELF and other electronic systems, but then you are going to run ut of excursion/power handling soon. so there goes your dynamics.
allso notice most car subs have a low SPL value /efficiency.
a speaker that is rated to handle say 160 watt at 84 dBL will not be as loud as a 40 watt one with 90 dBL sensitivity.
Car subs usually operate in a small area. So they are designed with that in mind. So they need a relatively small box to operate properly in a car.
And, the freqvency response of these subs takes the cabin gain into account.
when you take a driver like this into your home, and just slap it in a big box, you sortha get around the problem of the freqvency response, but you sacrifice everything else.
tipically those who only look at the freqvency response graphs do make this mistake.
Just look around and get a decent driver that was made to do the job well, and don't rape a driver that was ment to do something else.
quite easy.
OK. Then I think this driver is for home and will be good. Can anyone please let me know what will be the enclosure volume for this driver?
Peerless Fabrikkerne (I) Ltd - 12" Sub-Woofer
Peerless Fabrikkerne (I) Ltd - 12" Sub-Woofer
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