It will depend on the caps choice. They would have to fit between side wall and the shaft extender (standing) and they can't be to tall as the rect board has to be attached on top. You can always separate big caps from PS board and mount them whenever suitable (using some sort of glue or silicone).
But really, you don't need a snubberized PS. Although I tried it briefly, I'm not using it anymore. The "old way" is better
But really, you don't need a snubberized PS. Although I tried it briefly, I'm not using it anymore. The "old way" is better
Attachments
quote:
Originally posted by mastertech
Peter, you dont use a power switch , may i ask why
Because I recommend to keep this amp always ON
------------------------------------
cool, just out of curiocity would you recommend the same thing
with a class-a one too?
Peter is there any particular technical reason why you recommend that?
component warm up, bias stabilisation,etc
or you just do that out of aesthetic appeal
Peter you have done a great job, very polished crafting
Originally posted by mastertech
Peter, you dont use a power switch , may i ask why
Because I recommend to keep this amp always ON
------------------------------------
cool, just out of curiocity would you recommend the same thing
with a class-a one too?
Peter is there any particular technical reason why you recommend that?
component warm up, bias stabilisation,etc
or you just do that out of aesthetic appeal
Peter you have done a great job, very polished crafting
mastertech said:
I never kept my class A amps on all the time, especially when they were eating 1200VA from mains.
But it's not the same with GC. Here, the power consumption is almost none (when idle) and no heat is dissipating. Constant switching on and off creates stress for the components, and when amp is always on, it always delivers the best, without need to warm up.
Does this help you curiosity? (Now I'm curious).
peter Daniels:
Constant switching on and off creates stress for the components
----------------------------------------------------------
peter you're not being serious are you?,
--------------------------------
peter Daniels:
and when amp is always on, it always delivers the best, without need to warm up.
------------------------------
peter you're not being serious are you?,
-------------------------------
peter Daniels:
Here, the power consumption is almost none (when idle)
-----------------------------
peter you're not being serious are you?,
why dont you just say it is just for aesthetics my friend to help
my curiocity a bit
Constant switching on and off creates stress for the components
----------------------------------------------------------
peter you're not being serious are you?,
--------------------------------
peter Daniels:
and when amp is always on, it always delivers the best, without need to warm up.
------------------------------
peter you're not being serious are you?,
-------------------------------
peter Daniels:
Here, the power consumption is almost none (when idle)
-----------------------------
peter you're not being serious are you?,
why dont you just say it is just for aesthetics my friend to help
my curiocity a bit
planet10:
Of course he is... i've been advising this for 25 years for most of the same reasons.
--------------------------------------------------------
A power switch could cause so much, i dont believe you guys
at what rate a switch could cause stress in components
twice a day maybe???? i dont believe you guys you say
such things, dont you ever think that we need to save
electricity even as small as we could
Peter daniels what practicality you know as i know you wouldnt
put a switch there simply because it would spoil the look of your chassis,right?) why dont you admit
Mr peter daniels what practicality are refering to? the already
mentioned one?
are you serious?????
Of course he is... i've been advising this for 25 years for most of the same reasons.
--------------------------------------------------------
A power switch could cause so much, i dont believe you guys
at what rate a switch could cause stress in components
twice a day maybe???? i dont believe you guys you say
such things, dont you ever think that we need to save
electricity even as small as we could
Peter daniels what practicality you know as i know you wouldnt
put a switch there simply because it would spoil the look of your chassis,right?
) why dont you admitMr peter daniels what practicality are refering to? the already
mentioned one?
are you serious?????
hi mastertech,
Why do you need a switch on your amp when you have a perfectly good one on the power point? Save the environment, reduce the manufacture of switches.
Also, when circuits are first turned on, transients are generated until the circuit stabilises. This only takes a fraction of a second but it potentially is a point of failure, small chance granted.
Who really cares anyway? Play your own game.
Why do you need a switch on your amp when you have a perfectly good one on the power point? Save the environment, reduce the manufacture of switches.
Also, when circuits are first turned on, transients are generated until the circuit stabilises. This only takes a fraction of a second but it potentially is a point of failure, small chance granted.
Who really cares anyway? Play your own game.
grege said:
An amp that won't be temperature stressed if left on will typically last longer than one that is turned off & on ( -- when does a light bulb die?), and may actually use less power (ie the power to idle it may well be less than the energy required to refill the power supply caps.
Besides howcan you keep the tunes going 24/7 if you turn it off?
dave
The pwr consumption of these chip amps at idle is on the order of a night-light.
Practically none.
However, a master switch should be included for turning off "long-term"(ie vacation, weekend/weeklong trips etc.)
If I'm not mistaken the switch I recommended a while back is still available from Apex.jr, and it is a drop in replacement.
Practically none.
However, a master switch should be included for turning off "long-term"(ie vacation, weekend/weeklong trips etc.)
If I'm not mistaken the switch I recommended a while back is still available from Apex.jr, and it is a drop in replacement.
Attachments
I got 30 of those Apex Jr. switches, and they are not drop in replacement. They require larger hole.
I knew that when ordering them though and I'm still looking for drop in replacement.
For turning off "long-term"(ie vacation, weekend/weeklong trips etc.), removing power cord either from the amp or from the wall shouldn't present that much trouble
I knew that when ordering them though and I'm still looking for drop in replacement.
For turning off "long-term"(ie vacation, weekend/weeklong trips etc.), removing power cord either from the amp or from the wall shouldn't present that much trouble
Thanks!
Hi Peter,
A big thank you for making this chassis available.
It took me a long time but I finally managed to
put it all together last night and have a functioning
GC.
Cheers,
Dennis
P.S. I looked at the LM3875 datasheet this morning.
If I calculated things correctly (using the typical figures),
my GC burns a total of ~4W at idle.
Hi Peter,
A big thank you for making this chassis available.
It took me a long time but I finally managed to
put it all together last night and have a functioning
GC.
Cheers,
Dennis
P.S. I looked at the LM3875 datasheet this morning.
If I calculated things correctly (using the typical figures),
my GC burns a total of ~4W at idle.
Peter,
I wanted to thank you as well for putting the kit together. It's really a sharp looking little amplifier. I didn't use the included maple sides, but instead some peruvian walnut. I keep meaning to post a picture, but it has to be the most well documented gainclone chassis on the board so (except for the walnut) everyone has basically seen it already.
Scott.
I wanted to thank you as well for putting the kit together. It's really a sharp looking little amplifier. I didn't use the included maple sides, but instead some peruvian walnut. I keep meaning to post a picture, but it has to be the most well documented gainclone chassis on the board so (except for the walnut) everyone has basically seen it already.
Scott.
I also used more exotic wood in my personal version. Here's the amp with Mardon Burl side panels.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
rabstg said:
Specialized Kits was actually created for the chassis offer only.
With AudioSector I have more ambitious plans.
Besides, I really like that name, especially when industrial music creates my main musical interests. The domain name, audiosector, was sugested to me by Brian, during one of our telephone conversations.
In one way, it's also continuation of Audio Zone, with more personlized projects, reflecting my philosophy and approach to audio equipment building.
Peter Daniel said:
Specialized Kits was actually created for the chassis offer only.
With AudioSector I have more ambitious plans.
Besides, I really like that name, especially when industrial music creates my main musical interests. The domain name, audiosector, was sugested to me by Brian, during one of our telephone conversations.
In one way, it's also continuation of Audio Zone, with more personlized projects, reflecting my philosophy and approach to audio equipment building.
This is a JOKE!!! Please do NOT take it any other way!!! I just thought it was the perfect setup....
*************JOKE WARNING********************
Ok, your time on the soap box has expired. Step down for the next person.
*************END OF JOKE ZONE*****************
You know I gots nuttin but love for my brotha. Just thought the above JOKE would be funny.. No? Well my wife does say I have no sense of humor....
Anyway, "With AudioSector I have more ambitious plans."
PLEASE do tell.
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