Re switch debate. Certainly in the UK, it is straightforward to get a mains socket or adaptor block with a switch. I use one of these on my DVD player, which otherwise only has standby. Naim audio gear has a power switch but it's round the back, so not meant for regular every day use. I never use 'em. The stuff sounds better if left on and power consumption when idle is minimal.
From an environmental point of view, it would be more beneficial to go round fitting low energy light bulbs than stressing electronic components by switching them on and off all the time (although if one is using class A mega-amplifiers, that might not apply).
IMO, even getting rid of the mains connector plug is a good idea and fitting a fixed cable, though this leaves less room for experimentation.
Colin
From an environmental point of view, it would be more beneficial to go round fitting low energy light bulbs than stressing electronic components by switching them on and off all the time (although if one is using class A mega-amplifiers, that might not apply).
IMO, even getting rid of the mains connector plug is a good idea and fitting a fixed cable, though this leaves less room for experimentation.
Colin
The chassis kit came out really nice. I have one chassis almost fully assembled. The sides are currently taped on, and I didn't mount the bottom pieces under the boards. Here are some pictures:
front of chassis
back of chassis
side of chassis with wood taken off
top removed
overhead view from front
parts from chassis 2, waiting to be assembled
Assembly is quite self-explanatory, but I will work with Peter to make a step-by-step gallery of the chassis assembly process. The only part of the chassis that you need to DIY is the holes in the wooden panels to mount to the chassis, and the holes in the brackets to mount under the boards.
Peter did a great packing job, and the chassis was shipped on the 10th from Canada, and I received it on the 16th.
The pictures don't even come close to doing the amplifier justice, as it looks very nice. The brushing is perfect, and there are no visible scratchs on the external surfaces.
--
Brian
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
front of chassis
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
back of chassis
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
side of chassis with wood taken off
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
top removed
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
overhead view from front
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
parts from chassis 2, waiting to be assembled
Assembly is quite self-explanatory, but I will work with Peter to make a step-by-step gallery of the chassis assembly process. The only part of the chassis that you need to DIY is the holes in the wooden panels to mount to the chassis, and the holes in the brackets to mount under the boards.
Peter did a great packing job, and the chassis was shipped on the 10th from Canada, and I received it on the 16th.
The pictures don't even come close to doing the amplifier justice, as it looks very nice. The brushing is perfect, and there are no visible scratchs on the external surfaces.
--
Brian
NUTZ!
AWWWWWWW CRAP!
You mean to tell me that the cool little AC inlet with the switch is now obsolete????
Mannnnnnn...
I just want you guys to know that I'm a little OCD, and now that I know the concerns raised about a single pole mains switch, I can never use one. That's just great...
...It was gonna fit perfectly in that cutout too.
*Grumble, sputter*
-Erik.
AWWWWWWW CRAP!
You mean to tell me that the cool little AC inlet with the switch is now obsolete????
Mannnnnnn...
I just want you guys to know that I'm a little OCD, and now that I know the concerns raised about a single pole mains switch, I can never use one. That's just great...
...It was gonna fit perfectly in that cutout too.
*Grumble, sputter*
-Erik.
You don't have to be paranoid to think that safety comes first... if you know what's dangerous.Peter Daniel said:
If you live in 230 VAC country it's much more dangerous than 110 V. You should have great respect for safety issues. I have got 230 VAC through my heart. I know have that feels
This is nothing I want to try again. 
Re: NUTZ!
hay if you dont mind paying shiping you can have one of these free. i have lots
e.lectronick said:AWWWWWWW CRAP!
You mean to tell me that the cool little AC inlet with the switch is now obsolete????
Mannnnnnn...
I just want you guys to know that I'm a little OCD, and now that I know the concerns raised about a single pole mains switch, I can never use one. That's just great...
...It was gonna fit perfectly in that cutout too.
*Grumble, sputter*
-Erik.
hay if you dont mind paying shiping you can have one of these free. i have lots
Attachments
peranders said:
You don't have to be paranoid to think that safety comes first... if you know what's dangerous.
If you live in 230 VAC country it's much more dangerous than 110 V. You should have great respect for safety issues. I have got 230 VAC through my heart. I know have that feels
It is not that much about safety, as it's about common sense.
An amplifier is a device built to be connected to the mains. If you feel that one pole switch is not good enough, don't use a switch at all, and remove the power cord from a socket (to be completely safe) when disconnecting the amp.
That's the approach that I have chosen in my chassis design.
Hi All-
I don't want to start any thing because some people have WAY too much free time on their hands
but.......
All of the light switches in my house are single pole, my table saw is single pole, my switch on the refrigerator for the internal light is single pole, my corded drills, jig saw and compound miter saw are single poled.
My 220 Volt AC electric stove has single pole switches for the burners. The power switch on my 220v dryer is single poled.
If installed correctly, single pole switches are COMPLETELY safe.
The ONLY time your fingers should be in the chassis with power present is when you’re troubleshooting. At which time you should be HIGHLY alert where you put your fingers any way!
Thanks,
Troy
I don't want to start any thing because some people have WAY too much free time on their hands
but.......All of the light switches in my house are single pole, my table saw is single pole, my switch on the refrigerator for the internal light is single pole, my corded drills, jig saw and compound miter saw are single poled.
My 220 Volt AC electric stove has single pole switches for the burners. The power switch on my 220v dryer is single poled.
If installed correctly, single pole switches are COMPLETELY safe.
The ONLY time your fingers should be in the chassis with power present is when you’re troubleshooting. At which time you should be HIGHLY alert where you put your fingers any way!
Thanks,
Troy
Excellent Points
Troy,
Thanks, you've helped bring reality back to the discussion. All of these devices are potentially just as deadly as an amplifier, so if they're safe, then I'm ok with a single pole ac mains.
So, Apex Jr. will be hearing from me soon.
Just waiting for the next round of Specializedkits
-ERik
Troy,
Thanks, you've helped bring reality back to the discussion. All of these devices are potentially just as deadly as an amplifier, so if they're safe, then I'm ok with a single pole ac mains.
So, Apex Jr. will be hearing from me soon.
Just waiting for the next round of Specializedkits
-ERik
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