Chassis for a group order of non-inverted GC kit? - Page 11

hifi · 27th February 2004, 03:48 PM

waaaay of topic

but about funding for this site was there not a goverment program site such as this could seek funding from?

/ micke

Peter Daniel · 27th February 2004, 03:51 PM

As to the feet, at the moment, I don't want to supply that item either, but I would suggest using one cone directly under transformer (attached to the bolt going through the center of transformer) and a sort of two regular feet in the back.

As you noticed, I decided to mount AC socket on the bottom panel. If that socket is mounted in a regualr way, a clearance of 1" is reguired for a regular 90 deg plug. But if the socket is mounted on 0.5" stand offs, this reduces the required clearance as well. Now, this arrangement may not be completely safe and a full size spacer might be more apropriate.

Peter Daniel · 27th February 2004, 03:56 PM

The attenuator and switcher are not included with a chassis, but I think Brian was considering adding it as a separate item.

chris ma · 27th February 2004, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hifi
waaaay of topic

but about funding for this site was there not a goverment program site such as this could seek funding from?

/ micke

Do you mean UN?

pinkmouse · 27th February 2004, 04:01 PM

The only problem with cutting holes for mains input sockets is that they are different throughout the world, unless everyone could use something like an IEC connection. However this does mean that a 110v piece of kit could be plugged into 240v by someone unsuspecting, not good

Peter Daniel · 27th February 2004, 04:03 PM

I believe IEC is a standard connector all over the world and since chassis is supplied without transformer, it's up to the person putting the amp together to chosse the proper voltage.

Cappy · 27th February 2004, 04:22 PM

I am a little confused as to how the IEC connector looks on the bottom of the case.

Would I be able to use thicker "boutique" power cords, such as DIY versions of these: http://www.venhaus1.com/flavor2pic.jpg ?

It seems there wouldn't be enough room?

tg3 · 27th February 2004, 05:53 PM

I'm in for one chassis.

kanaddict · 27th February 2004, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Peter Daniel
The attenuator and switcher are not included with a chassis, but I think Brian was considering adding it as a separate item.

Peter,

I think about being part og the group and would definitively like to get these items at the same time.

Also, what is the price of a good transfo for this amp ?

Regards,

Daniel from Quebec city

DC Dave · 27th February 2004, 07:33 PM

Hey Peter,
The Chassis looks great. What is the height without the feet? I read that its 9 X 10 but didn't see the height. Also you said you cut the pieces with a table saw. Did you just use a bi-metal blade and go slowly? Any lube? I never thought of using a table saw for cutting aluminum.

27th February 2004, 04:01 PM	#105
pinkmouse diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Chatham, England	The only problem with cutting holes for mains input sockets is that they are different throughout the world, unless everyone could use something like an IEC connection. However this does mean that a 110v piece of kit could be plugged into 240v by someone unsuspecting, not good __________________ Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort

27th February 2004, 05:53 PM	#108
tg3 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Seattle, WA	I'm in for one chassis. __________________ If you don't measure, you don't know.

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27th February 2004, 03:48 PM	#101
hifi diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: sweden	waaaay of topic but about funding for this site was there not a goverment program site such as this could seek funding from? / micke

27th February 2004, 03:51 PM	#102
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	As to the feet, at the moment, I don't want to supply that item either, but I would suggest using one cone directly under transformer (attached to the bolt going through the center of transformer) and a sort of two regular feet in the back. As you noticed, I decided to mount AC socket on the bottom panel. If that socket is mounted in a regualr way, a clearance of 1" is reguired for a regular 90 deg plug. But if the socket is mounted on 0.5" stand offs, this reduces the required clearance as well. Now, this arrangement may not be completely safe and a full size spacer might be more apropriate.

27th February 2004, 03:56 PM	#103
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	The attenuator and switcher are not included with a chassis, but I think Brian was considering adding it as a separate item.

27th February 2004, 04:03 PM	#106
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	I believe IEC is a standard connector all over the world and since chassis is supplied without transformer, it's up to the person putting the amp together to chosse the proper voltage.

27th February 2004, 04:22 PM	#107
Cappy diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Southern Willamette Valley	I am a little confused as to how the IEC connector looks on the bottom of the case. Would I be able to use thicker "boutique" power cords, such as DIY versions of these: http://www.venhaus1.com/flavor2pic.jpg ? It seems there wouldn't be enough room?

27th February 2004, 07:33 PM	#110
DC Dave diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Washington DC	Hey Peter, The Chassis looks great. What is the height without the feet? I read that its 9 X 10 but didn't see the height. Also you said you cut the pieces with a table saw. Did you just use a bi-metal blade and go slowly? Any lube? I never thought of using a table saw for cutting aluminum.

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