Upgrading OEM Panasonic Amp, on the inside

[SPLAudioHz]

Hello gentlemen,

I have been playing around with OEM panasonic amps for the Honda Acura for the last 6mo. After ripping through a dozen of them, upgrading caps, trying different combinations of caps I have found that the sound quality is pretty awesome with the right set of caps. However I was looking to take it a step further. The current amps have three Philips TDA8563Q SC amps. Spitting out a decent 40x2 @2 I wanted to take one of the boards I have and increasing the output. Aftermarket amps could be an option, however the integrated HFL and other peripherals sort of depend on the amp to function with the OEM HU. It can be bypassed with a series of processors and line drivers, but I wanted to give this a shot.

I am looking for an higher output version of this http://media.digikey.com/pdf/data sheets/philips semiconductor pdfs/tda8563q.pdf

I will dive into the power unit later on. Mosfets will follow suit. I am not looking to push out a lot more power, just to double what I have if possible.

Thank you for any guidance gentlemen.

Jesse

 

[phase]

I have played around with the Panasonic in my Toyota, however, the hiss that is produced can be annoying, and my extra decoupling hasn't cured it.
So far there is; a CRC filter(.1uf Russian polystyrene/18 ohm/.01uf Wima FKP)at the incoming power pin, along with a 4,700uf 35v Samwha, analog decoupling on the processor(100uf 25v Panasonic Pureism), swapped out the 2114 op amps for some Phillips NE5532, with Wima FKP1 .01uf on the power pins. Also recently put a 5uf polypropylene from an old microwave oven on the output of the altenator.
I'm pretty pleased with the sound, am using the output to drive a Nakamichi PA300 with a slew of better capacitors stuffed into it, and out into what is best described as DIY JBL 4406 monitors built into the stock speaker locations.
What parts have you tried?

 

[stratus46]

Hello gentlemen,

<snip>

I am looking for an higher output version of this http://media.digikey.com/pdf/data sheets/philips semiconductor pdfs/tda8563q.pdf

I will dive into the power unit later on. Mosfets will follow suit. I am not looking to push out a lot more power, just to double what I have if possible.

Thank you for any guidance gentlemen.

Jesse

No such thing. The only way to increase power is to reduce the load impedance which will increase the current or increase the power supply Voltage which will increase the current. That chip amp is already rated for a 2 ohm load and from a practical standpoint, you can't really go much lower which leaves you with higher Voltage. Unfortunately this means a complete unit. Sorry for the bad news

G²

 

[phase]

I was going to mention that as well, without a power supply over and above the 12V battery supply, you won't be getting much more that 12 watts from any chip.

 

[SPLAudioHz]

I may need to look into redesigning the board This could be fun! Thankfully there is plenty of room min the current board for adjustments

 

[SPLAudioHz]

Does anyone know where a guy can get board schematics

 

[SPLAudioHz]

I have played around with the Panasonic in my Toyota, however, the hiss that is produced can be annoying, and my extra decoupling hasn't cured it.
So far there is; a CRC filter(.1uf Russian polystyrene/18 ohm/.01uf Wima FKP)at the incoming power pin, along with a 4,700uf 35v Samwha, analog decoupling on the processor(100uf 25v Panasonic Pureism), swapped out the 2114 op amps for some Phillips NE5532, with Wima FKP1 .01uf on the power pins. Also recently put a 5uf polypropylene from an old microwave oven on the output of the altenator.
I'm pretty pleased with the sound, am using the output to drive a Nakamichi PA300 with a slew of better capacitors stuffed into it, and out into what is best described as DIY JBL 4406 monitors built into the stock speaker locations.
What parts have you tried?

I have found a great combo of either Nichi KZ/MW series and Elna Silmic II or Silmic II and Tonerex. I have maintained the same values with the exception of the power caps, I bumped those up 110%.

 

[SPLAudioHz]

 

[phase]

Looks pretty clean, what made me want to throw in the towel was the combination of LOTS of ceramic smd caps, and areas where there were four traces within a 1/8" of space.
At this point I'm just glad it still works...
The only thing close to a schematic I found was either from a hobbyist in Asia(on a forum) or from the datasheet of the processor.
Good luck with the mods!

 

[SPLAudioHz]

Hello again gentlemen. After having my *** handed to me by infina on the "parts" section I decided to bring this thread back to life. After playing with several combinations of caps I am finding that the sound quality can be improved with the right selection. Moving onto my next question:

Does anyone know the influence of using larger uF caps on the transistor side of an amp (referring to the amp in pics above). I am trying a Cerafine power cap combination with silmic filter caps and cannot use my typical 2200 due to the size of the caps. I will need to step down to 1000s for fitment. Wasn't sure if anyone has played with the uF on the transistor side.

 

[infinia]

car audio here Car Audio - diyAudio
no need for personal comments mister

 

[SPLAudioHz]

car audio here Car Audio - diyAudio
no need for personal comments mister

Let's be honest. You totally schooled me AKA handed my *** to me. But hey that is how I learn!

 

[infinia]

Let's be honest. You totally schooled me AKA handed my *** to me. But hey that is how I learn!

often looking up the IC data sheets on line you can learn much more than from the internet audio gurus , sorry I aint one.
see where the power pins are , look at the schematics for the care and feeding of that chip.
BTW Perry Babin is a really great tech that sort of runs the car forum. Doing a lil homework before hand really helps go a long way with him too I'm sure of!