Has anybody moded this amp. I have changed the powercord and replaced it with an IEC jack and 1.5ml silver cable....wow what a sound! I also had the amp modded in switzerland by Mr Graff who opened the mid range up so much it was like a new amp. I would like to do more to it coz the basics of the amp are phenominal, its punch mainly.
What I'm looking to do is get a more realistic sound to instruments, and tighten up the bass. Everthing else is amazing! Can anyone suggest any mods?
Ps I hope this is the right section!!
What I'm looking to do is get a more realistic sound to instruments, and tighten up the bass. Everthing else is amazing! Can anyone suggest any mods?
Ps I hope this is the right section!!
53 views and nothin. Is there a secret password? I'd be happy to open up my puppy and findout where the replacement electronics have been installed for others out there who wanna modify this one. I know there are some people out there who have modded NAD's and its such a popular amp I can't believe no body has touched this one. I'll get some more info up on mine but in the meanwhile lets a thread started!Hello,
I would start at the power supply, Increasing the size of your main filter caps by 30% or more is a good thing. To achieve good results use a better cap than the stock one you remove.
You will also want to replace the bridge with some schottkys or soft recovery-fast switching diodes of a larger amperage capacity.
Think about this: Your stock mains cable was soldered directly to the circuit board. Now your mains cable is connected to a plug, plugged into an iec outlet, the iec outlet is soldered to some wire and then this wire is soldered to the board. If you can, hard wire your new mains cable directly to the circuit board.
From here replace the op-amp for a better one.
The options are almost endless. This should keep you busy for a few days.
Good luck.
KevinLee
I would start at the power supply, Increasing the size of your main filter caps by 30% or more is a good thing. To achieve good results use a better cap than the stock one you remove.
You will also want to replace the bridge with some schottkys or soft recovery-fast switching diodes of a larger amperage capacity.
Think about this: Your stock mains cable was soldered directly to the circuit board. Now your mains cable is connected to a plug, plugged into an iec outlet, the iec outlet is soldered to some wire and then this wire is soldered to the board. If you can, hard wire your new mains cable directly to the circuit board.
From here replace the op-amp for a better one.
The options are almost endless. This should keep you busy for a few days.
Good luck.
KevinLee
"Think about this: Your stock mains cable was soldered directly to the circuit board. Now your mains cable is connected to a plug, plugged into an iec outlet, the iec outlet is soldered to some wire and then this wire is soldered to the board. If you can, hard wire your new mains cable directly to the circuit board."
If you prescribe to this line of thought, should you not also solder your power cord direct to the house wiring, solder your circuit breakers directly to the wiring in the fuse box etc... Unless you had a bad connection somewhere changing mains cord will make sod all difference.
Do you know the difference between astronomy and astrology? Chemistry and alchemy? There is a lot of psudo science being peddled to audio enthusiasts, buyer beware.
If you prescribe to this line of thought, should you not also solder your power cord direct to the house wiring, solder your circuit breakers directly to the wiring in the fuse box etc... Unless you had a bad connection somewhere changing mains cord will make sod all difference.
Do you know the difference between astronomy and astrology? Chemistry and alchemy? There is a lot of psudo science being peddled to audio enthusiasts, buyer beware.
Hi guys,Cheers for your replys. I'm fine with my mains set up at the moment as my mains cable is the TNT Snake (which makes a huge difference, but single sheilding does make for a brightish sound) Cos of its size soldering to the board would not be practical. To Kevin:
Do you have part numbers for these? I'm currently a layman but do you mean the two huge Blue caps near the power supply. The black gates of these seem to retail at over £100!!? A value and type of recommended cap would be dead useful.
Again, i'm not sure what a bridge is, and where it is on the PCB. Any values or brands for replacment parts would also be cool.
Sorry!
A few things aside, when people recommend shorting caps, what do they mean, replacing them with wire or what?
Will get the details of my amp up in the next week.....
Here are the changes on my amp :
Parts C337 and C338 have been swapped with 4.7uf (50-P6)
Parts C335+C336+C101+C102 --- 1uf (63 F4)
C153+C154------ JH 220uf 50V (CD110)
C133+C134------- may have been changed, (cant tell) to 220uf 6.3v
These are just some recommendations that made my amp sound like new. It seems that WIMA was the preferd brand for the change but if anyone can suggest a better make that would be good.
Additionally has anyone modded this in other places and could they provide part numbers and suggested values and brands?
I hope this helps some of the newer people out there like me to give this stuff a go. These are good changes and quite easy to do.
My handy hint: If you burn yourself on the soldering iron , jam your hand against the freezer wall compartment for a while (not too long)!
Dont: run around like Jack Bower on 24 unless you at least run some cold water on your stomach. Hard though you may be
Cheers!
Parts C337 and C338 have been swapped with 4.7uf (50-P6)
Parts C335+C336+C101+C102 --- 1uf (63 F4)
C153+C154------ JH 220uf 50V (CD110)
C133+C134------- may have been changed, (cant tell) to 220uf 6.3v
These are just some recommendations that made my amp sound like new. It seems that WIMA was the preferd brand for the change but if anyone can suggest a better make that would be good.
Additionally has anyone modded this in other places and could they provide part numbers and suggested values and brands?
I hope this helps some of the newer people out there like me to give this stuff a go. These are good changes and quite easy to do.
My handy hint: If you burn yourself on the soldering iron
, jam your hand against the freezer wall compartment for a while (not too long)! Dont: run around like Jack Bower on 24 unless you at least run some cold water on your stomach. Hard though you may be
Cheers!There are a few other things i've noticed on the amp on the under side of the PCB, between some different caps, but I cant read the values.
Can somebody who really knows about this stuff give me a hand? Its seems no-one is really interested in sharing stuff like this for tha NAD. As a begginer some laymans instructions would be appreciated!
Can somebody who really knows about this stuff give me a hand? Its seems no-one is really interested in sharing stuff like this for tha NAD. As a begginer some laymans instructions would be appreciated!