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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New York
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Hello all,
I'm trying to put together the specs for a BPA-200 amp. I have read the application notes and used the overture spreadsheet. I have the following plans: Transformer 625 VA +/- 25 V (Voltage rails ~ +/- 37 V) 1 per stereo chassis. The filter caps will be 2x68000uF per side. I would use 4 chips per side. I want to bolt the chips to an aluminum channel (5" high 0.2" thick and 15" long). Each channel will have 2 heatsinks of 5.25" long 7" wide and 3" high. The total has a dissipation of 0.43 oC/W per channel (Exluding the aluminum channel). The case will be aluminum with some ventilation holes. I would like the amp to be able to use at 4 ohm loads. The application notes state that this should be fine but the overture spreadsheet notes a 0.8 oC/W heat sink is required per chip. That is more then I would have. My questions: Is the tranformer adequate or do I need a higher rating (The application notes talk about 365 VA per channel)? I'm assuming that the total continuous load will be lower then the maximum load. Should I use 6 chips per channel and reduce the load per chip (Higher cost) and improve heat dissipation? Or should I reduce the voltage and go for less power? Should I go for the lm3886 chip (higher power) or the lm3875 chip? Would a 20 Ga power hookup cable be enough per chip? I would like some input on these design decisions and I would like to hear peoples personal experiences with these kind of designs. Thanks Harry Andree |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Roskilde - The vikingships
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Hi H_andree
Have a look at 200 watts Gäjnklon (Gainclone) - BPA200 Your 625 VA transformer would be fine, but the 25 V AC will only give you about 34 V DC, not that it makes a big difference. The 2 x 68000 uF is more than enough. You need some kind of "soft/slow" turn-on circuit with that size tranformer and level of capacitans With the 34 V DC voltage level I think that your cooling and number (4 pices) of LM3886 are fine. Just make sure that you take care to get the best possible cooling of the chips. Have fun Thomas L. Madsen |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New York
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About the voltage.
I agree that with the theoretical value of 1.41 x the secondaries you should get 35 Volts. However when I measure the mains it's not 110 V but 122V. That's why I got 27.1 V out of a 18V secondary. This 10% higher voltage will give me 37V in my current house. I do not know if it's important but that's why I want to stay away from +/-30V like in the application notes. I'd rather be safe then sorry. Harry |
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#4 | |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me |
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#5 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Ottawa, Canada
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Quote:
Using 6 chips wouldn't hurt (except the budget) and would help to ensure that the amp will never limit the current. Quote:
Quote:
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New York
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Thanks for the suggestions so far.
So I will use the lm3886 T. I've read somewhere that people have difficulty insolating the chips. I wonder if there are any pitfalls in this process? Should I use nylon screws? Somebody recommended TO-3 mica insulators. I'm using a single heat sink so I cannot keep the back of the chips hot. I will use the heat transfer compound. I do not want to go into the discussion of fast switching diodes vs bridges since that has been done in different treads. I'm planning to uses separate bridges for each channel. What should be the current rating for bridge diodes? The amp can draw 300 W max at 60 V. This is 5 amps. But the diodes are not constantly on. Also 2 diodes should be on at the same time. Thus a 5 amp rating would probably enough. I would double that to at least 10 amps. Is this a fair assesment? So the power hookup wire should be thick. Have people experimented with different geometry here. I was planning to have a braided design. But maybe a parallel wiring is better. The capacitance would eliminate noise? I read in the Jeff Rowland litterature something about this. They have the conductors very close together though. Anybody any thoughts on this subject? Thanks again Harry |
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#7 |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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If you are going to use the amp in light duty (at home) I suspect that the TF will perfectly and you won't have to worry about isolation. If you are thinking of heavy duty then you must choose the "T" model.
Before you do too much I'll suggest that you read listed documents carefully and also try to understand them: http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-1192.pdf http://www.national.com/appinfo/audi...gn_Guide13.xls http://www.national.com/appinfo/audi...sign_Guide.pdf and check once more Mr. Madsen's pcb. You can't connect the IC's in parallel pin by pin and I'll doubt that you can get away with this without a pcb.
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New York
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I will use the amplifier for home use. I expect the
amplifier hardly to run out of power. I'm using 12W of power now and run out of power only one few occasions. On the other hand I would like the amp to be reliable and prefer not to experience shut down. Harry |
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#9 |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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Then it's very clear, use the TF model! You will have a very powerful amp despite the fact that you can't take out continuous power at full throttle. Note also that the IC's will run rather cool so you must play for a while to get them hot (I believe, haven't tested yet).
The rectifier bridge should be 200 V / 10 A (if you have one bridge per channel) on heatsink or at least bolted in the chassis. This will also fit, I'll gather.
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New York
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Maybe I missed it but what do people typically do
for input buffer power supply. For the regular gainclone the lower voltage is ok so you can use a voltage regulator. The bridged parallel version has rails from +/- 35-40 V. A buffer opamp typically will draw < 100 ma I see a couple of solutions for the power supply of the opamp buffer: 1) Using a resistor and a Zener diode to down regulate the voltage to 24V. Then add regular voltage regulators. 2) Design a power supply from scratch with Nationals tool. Seems complex. 3) I'm wondering if this is possible: use only half of the rail with a separate diode bridge. (Which will give me 35-40V single ended and I divide it into +/- 17-20 V) and use a voltage regulator. Is this possible? 4) Is it wise to just add an extra 15 W transformer and diodes? I'm not sure I have enough space in my case for this option. I wonder which one would be easy and which one would give the best results. Any thoughts or help? Thanks Harry |
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