Modulus-86 build thread

Yes. You'll get slightly higher gain by doing so.



You don't need to. If you'd rather not use sockets, just delete them from your cart when you order.



Opamp "rolling" (aka random opamp substitutions) is **NOT** recommended. Best case you degrade the performance of the amp. Worst case, the amp will oscillate. Composite amplifiers are not suitable for random component substitutions.



I've changed the text to read:

The build process was documented in great detail by one of my builders. Do note that this builder went overboard on component selection with “TCC Naked Z-foil” resistors and such. This is completely unnecessary from a technical performance perspective as the Modulus-86 will provide world class performance with the specified parts as shown in the image above. The fancy components do make for a good looking amp and impressive marketing copy, however. His slide show is available here: Poseidon’s Voice – Neurochrome Modulus-86 Rev. 2.1 Build.

Please let me know if that clears up the confusion or if you'd rather see the text removed altogether. I rather like the slide show. Thanks to Anand for making it available. If the slide show causes more confusion than explanation, it should go, though. Just let me know what you think.



You're welcome.

Tom, thanks for the answers again.
I would definitely leave the pictures. They are very nice. For me they prove that building the amp is doable, shows possible layout inside the case and gives idea over how amp could look like finally. I like them very much.
As for the note, yes, that clarifies your statement on fancy components and together with those pictures make your whole Modulus 86 product message consistent .
Hopefully it will reduce the number of questions like mine in the future and will save your time spend on answering to them.
Maybe you should think of FAQ page ...
 
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Anand - would the 3U Dissipante be required if one wanted the use the internal base plate? I kinda like the idea of keeping the bottom cover as sleek as possible. I can't remember the last non-kit build on which I was happy with the location of all parts on the first go-round.

Good question. The internal height of the 2U enclosure is 80mm. I don't know what the thickness of the baseplate is but I doubt it's a lot. In any case you can easily compensate by using shorter standoffs on the main board.

I understand the need for the sleek look. That's why I countersunk my screws on the bottom of my build. I could've used a baseplate but I wasn't sure about enlarging the holes on the baseplate to mount the toroid transformer and fitting the thick M8 screws as well between the baseplate and bottom of the chassis. I also insisted on using the steel transformer covers which barely fit on the standard 2U enclosure : http://www.antekinc.com/content/CA-xxx.pdf

Best,
Anand.
 
Good question. The internal height of the 2U enclosure is 80mm. I don't know what the thickness of the baseplate is but I doubt it's a lot. In any case you can easily compensate by using shorter standoffs on the main board.

I understand the need for the sleek look. That's why I countersunk my screws on the bottom of my build. I could've used a baseplate but I wasn't sure about enlarging the holes on the baseplate to mount the toroid transformer and fitting the thick M8 screws as well between the baseplate and bottom of the chassis. I also insisted on using the steel transformer covers which barely fit on the standard 2U enclosure : http://www.antekinc.com/content/CA-xxx.pdf

Best,
Anand.

I'm not sure how thick the baseplate add on is, but keep in mind that it does mount up off the bottom cover on the side rails. Add about 4mm to whatever the baseplate thickness is as an estimate of how much interior height you'll lose.
 
Oh yeah , Black Friday is everywhere! Right now I live in USA , but I'm original from Romania, even there we have it....or Halloween , valentine day...
These holidays don't mean anything, but it's a good reason for retail stores and e stores to have good sales. It's about money.
 
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I'm not sold on the idea of having sales. They create a lot of tension with those who buy just before the sale and those who miss the sale. I've had Black Friday/Monday sales before and haven't seen that much of an uptick in sales.

The sales I do have tend to be introductory sales. For example my headphone amp HP-1 is on sale as it was introduced just a few days ago. This sale runs until Christmas. I have no plans for other sales.

Tom
 
I'm not sold on the idea of having sales. They create a lot of tension with those who buy just before the sale and those who miss the sale. I've had Black Friday/Monday sales before and haven't seen that much of an uptick in sales.

The sales I do have tend to be introductory sales. For example my headphone amp HP-1 is on sale as it was introduced just a few days ago. This sale runs until Christmas. I have no plans for other sales.

Tom
Man, is there anything you can't do? You're going to drive everyone out of business. ;)
 
Man, is there anything you can't do? You're going to drive everyone out of business. ;)

The answer is "No"!!!

That HP headphone amplifier is 'da bomb!' The one thing I like about Tom's work is that he creates a reference standard so that you can use his designs to compare to all others.

Be on the lookout for higher powered amplifiers to replace the defunct Parallel 86...I have a few colleagues who are ready to fork some $$$ over :D

And for those of you on the fence with the Modulus-86, check out the measurements of the $3k Benchmark AHB2; except for higher power, the Modulus competes extraordinarily well ;)

Best,
Anand.
 
I assume that to mean 'it's good a blue LED, but I've turned the current down a bit? :p

More like: I spent a while pouring over data sheets for blue LEDs to find one that wasn't going to burn your eyes out like every other blue ON indicator out there.

I actually wanted a white LED, but they're all several thousand lux or above. I picked a couple of "low intensity" white LEDs and ran them at starvation currents (µA). I could make that look OK, but I wasn't convinced of the repeatability. The last thing I want is support calls like "yeah, the amp is AWESOME but the ON-indicator doesn't work". As Schiit has found out (and apparently there's a lengthy thread in their support forum) to get a pleasant brightness from a white LED, you need pulse-width control.
I did briefly consider implementing PWM with a 555 timer when I snapped out of it and realized that putting ten pounds of sh*t into a five pound bag wasn't in line with my design goals. Asked the question, "what's available in blue LEDs" and soon had my answer.

Yes. All this for a silly LED... It does look nice, though! :)

Then again. At the recent Calgary Head-Fi meet, someone showed up with a stack of Schiit gear. All the LEDs on the front panel had been taped over so he could be in the room with the amp. You could still see the white LED through the metallic tape! I don't want to go there.

Tom
 
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:) I know how retina searing blue LEDs have become*. First one I ever saw (circa 1986 was about £50, not very bright and ISTR only about 20k hour life expectancy). But I know the problems. I had an EGT gauge on a kit car I used to own where each tri-colour LED on the display could be set to a different colour. Did have a use as you could change colour if you went out of certain bounds, but was also a bit of 'cos we can'. Me, I'm a fan of HP green for power indicators, but I'm old.

*I have a 2001 passat with blue everything. You have to really dim it at night to stop it hurting.