I am looking for something I can experiment with in a couple of different scenarios... primarily I would like something that can do ~45-60w RMS into 4ohm for car audio, but possibly also 8ohm home audio.
I understand that I would probably need at least a 30v SMPS to get close to those numbers, and have found a few schematics to make a DC-DC.
I have seen some 2x100w Tk2050 amps that look like a good fit, wondering if there is anything better?
I understand that I would probably need at least a 30v SMPS to get close to those numbers, and have found a few schematics to make a DC-DC.
I have seen some 2x100w Tk2050 amps that look like a good fit, wondering if there is anything better?
30Vdc will limit the output to a maximum of around 28Vpp, if you use a regulated 30Vdc and you make a good job of designing the system to deliver current.
That 28Vpp gives 24.5W into 4r0 or 12.25W into 8r0.
If you can build an amp that can drive 2ohms, and that means able to drive a 1r0 load as well, then you could bridge a pair of these 2ohms amplifiers to deliver double the power into double the impedance.
i.e. start with two 2ohms capable power amplifiers each capable of 49W into 2r0 and you can get 98W into 4r0.
But both those amplifiers must be capable of driving a 1r0 dummy test load.
However, that prediction of 98W into 4r0 depends on: a regulated 30Vdc and you make a good job of designing the system to deliver current.
Using an unregulated PSU and an adequate current delivery and your maximum power could end up less than half the 98W, maybe 30W to 40W into 4ohms.
That 28Vpp gives 24.5W into 4r0 or 12.25W into 8r0.
If you can build an amp that can drive 2ohms, and that means able to drive a 1r0 load as well, then you could bridge a pair of these 2ohms amplifiers to deliver double the power into double the impedance.
i.e. start with two 2ohms capable power amplifiers each capable of 49W into 2r0 and you can get 98W into 4r0.
But both those amplifiers must be capable of driving a 1r0 dummy test load.
However, that prediction of 98W into 4r0 depends on: a regulated 30Vdc and you make a good job of designing the system to deliver current.
Using an unregulated PSU and an adequate current delivery and your maximum power could end up less than half the 98W, maybe 30W to 40W into 4ohms.
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You do know that the best (most popular/reviewed) Auto amps are markedly different devices from those for Home Audio ?
Home /residential audio aspires to detail and accuracy.. pace and rhythm.
Car audio is focused on Slam Bang contrasts.
Subtlety / details is wasted in a car and avoided by consumers of the gear.
Two differing animals. Either of which will sound poorly out of context.
Home /residential audio aspires to detail and accuracy.. pace and rhythm.
Car audio is focused on Slam Bang contrasts.
Subtlety / details is wasted in a car and avoided by consumers of the gear.
Two differing animals. Either of which will sound poorly out of context.
Please do not introduce pace and rhythm in a rational discussion.
The question here is:
An amp which can deliver, say, 50W RMS into 4 ohms inside a car, which needs some +/-23V rails and 50W / 8 ohms at home, which needs some +/- 32V rails.
Since that last supply will be conventional unregulated call it +/- 35V raw.
The LM3886 matches beautifully both requirements and with less than 0.1% distortion.
The home Power Supply is easy and conventional, just a transformer, bridge and capacitors and has been covered hundreds of times.
Parts are standard and easy to get.
Now the car supply is more complex, an SMPS with 12.6V input and +/- 23V output, at some 4A total (both channels) .
Did you say you had a couple schematics?
The question here is:
An amp which can deliver, say, 50W RMS into 4 ohms inside a car, which needs some +/-23V rails and 50W / 8 ohms at home, which needs some +/- 32V rails.
Since that last supply will be conventional unregulated call it +/- 35V raw.
The LM3886 matches beautifully both requirements and with less than 0.1% distortion.
The home Power Supply is easy and conventional, just a transformer, bridge and capacitors and has been covered hundreds of times.
Parts are standard and easy to get.
Now the car supply is more complex, an SMPS with 12.6V input and +/- 23V output, at some 4A total (both channels) .
Did you say you had a couple schematics?
Attachments
gotta love the nonsense of "automotive chip" thingy.
it is still an amplifier, be it in a car or in your house.
i tell something even better, you can drive headphones with an "automotive" chip, and You can drive Your 10 gigawhat rated sub with an earphone amp.
(okay to some extent, SPL will be limited due to lack of enough OOOOMpH, but that is not the question. they work vice-versa , all of them are just amplifiers. if the load is whitin specs it will drive it. case closed)
it is still an amplifier, be it in a car or in your house.
i tell something even better, you can drive headphones with an "automotive" chip, and You can drive Your 10 gigawhat rated sub with an earphone amp.
(okay to some extent, SPL will be limited due to lack of enough OOOOMpH, but that is not the question. they work vice-versa , all of them are just amplifiers. if the load is whitin specs it will drive it. case closed)
Where do people get all that junk? When I was 12 and already assumed those people are idiots... Many car chipamps have ALOT better perfomance and reliability than chips made for micro systems and TVs, many of those TV class D chips have worse performance than most 10 year old chips made for car stereos.
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