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#121 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Fort Collins, CO
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I would gladly put the files on, except right now I dont have access to them! I may, in a few weeks (once I get my new computer :-) They're locked up on a hard disk right now.
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#122 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bangalore, India.
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Quote:
wassup with the files? still locked up? please post it... spread the good word... ~M. |
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#123 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Fort Collins, CO
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Sorry I didn't post it all this while. To make up for it, I spruced up the schematic a bit, and made it more readable. Please remember this is not the most Hi-Fi of amps, and one cannot expect wonders of the LM1036. The LM412 is just a suggestion, feel free to use any dual opamp of your choice (reasonable bandwidth, please! Dont use 250 MHz CFB types
), or even bypass it altogether to reduce the cost.I made one small mistake with this design, the tone control inputs go first to a 100nF cap, then to a 47k resistor and to the LM1036. The cap should actually come in *after* the resistor, this way any scratchiness due to old pots will be cancelled. You can do this by soldering SMD 100nF caps (or through-hole types, if you're needlessly scared of SMD) to the underside of the board, between the cap pin and the nearby ground island. Please let me know if there are any problems with opening the ZIP file, they were made using gzip (Linux fanboy now )Please pay attention to the external wiring of this board, the star ground is *not* on the board, it's at the PSU filter cap junction. I will not repeat this again to the next brightspark who decides there's something "wrong" with the board. |
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