Would anyone mind proofing my wiring diagram? - diyAudio
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Old 8th August 2014, 06:58 PM   #1
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Default Would anyone mind proofing my wiring diagram?

Thanks in advance.

Per my previous thread here, I was able to obtain a second monster transformer and I'm about ready to wire everything up. I'm most concerned about the power side. The signal side should be pretty straight forward.


Attached is my rough wiring diagram. I hope its legible. Please feel free to give me any feedback.
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Old 8th August 2014, 07:10 PM   #2
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On the surface it looks OK. I take it the reservoir caps in the PS bit When you first power it up use a bulb tester for safety. Make sure you phase the secondary windings correctly. Just measure between your two yellow 24 volt lines. You should see 48 volts. If you see zero the phase of one winding needs swapping. Just think of it like two batteries in series. If you had plus to plus or minus to minus then you would actually read zero between the two battery ends. Same for the trannies even though its AC.

Don't assume the signal side is easy... its not. That's where its make or break time.

Read this (post #38 to get an idea) but check out the whole thread.
3 stage LIN topology - NFB tappings?
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Old 10th August 2014, 05:27 AM   #3
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This is how I would build it.

Shield all AC leads and the transformers. Twist all pairs.

If you need a potentiometer (which you do), place it between the amp boards with an extension to the front plate.
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Old 12th August 2014, 05:28 PM   #4
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Thanks. I have two more questions...

(1) If you recall from my earlier thread about the transformers, they're 15A. I'm assuming my fuse between my plug and my switch should be a fast blow 15A rated fuse right? And the ones between my power supply should be 3A slow blow?

(2) If I wanted to add two more channels to this, could I just run a parallel PS/Rectifier off the connection at the terminal blocks (assuming everything from that point on is equal?)

Thanks again...
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Old 12th August 2014, 06:58 PM   #5
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The primary fuse needs to be slow blow because the inrush current into a toroid can be huge. What's your mains voltage... 120 ? or do you have a 240 option ?

If its 120 then you need around 12 amps fusing per toroid. If its 240v then it would be around 6 amps.

You need slow blow fuses directly on the secondaries and rated according to your reservoir caps. Typically you'll be looking at around 4 amp rating. Then the DC from the caps to the amps should be fused.

You could run more amps directly from the rails of this one. Given that its only a low voltage tranny but with a huge current delivery potential there wouldn't be a problem.
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Old 12th August 2014, 07:56 PM   #6
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Yep, 120.

And, are you telling me that in my diagram above, my fuse on the primary side is in the wrong place? Should I have two 14A fuses after the terminal block, headed *into* the primaries?

Also, I thought the secondary fuses are supposed to be after the power supply/rectifiers, not before. Do I have that all wrong as well?
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Old 13th August 2014, 06:38 AM   #7
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Like this for each transformer. A primary fuse, secondary fuses and then rail fuses.
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Old 13th August 2014, 08:18 AM   #8
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Your amp layout is whispering: I am going to Hum and I am going to make you spend many hours trying to find the source of this hum.

Your layout is also missing a PSU GND connection to chassis.

First make a list of design goals (diy design / diy kit / ready made units, power, number of channels, sources and speakers to be connected, etc)

Then design/select the audio part (input, output, GND, bypass, decoupling, filters, potentiometer, speaker protection.)

Then design/select the PSU that will work best with the amp (capacitors, diodes, star GND, fuses, slow start-up.)
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Last edited by Mark Whitney; 13th August 2014 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 14th August 2014, 06:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Whitney View Post
Your amp layout is whispering: I am going to Hum and I am going to make you spend many hours trying to find the source of this hum.

Your layout is also missing a PSU GND connection to chassis.

First make a list of design goals (diy design / diy kit / ready made units, power, number of channels, sources and speakers to be connected, etc)

Then design/select the audio part (input, output, GND, bypass, decoupling, filters, potentiometer, speaker protection.)

Then design/select the PSU that will work best with the amp (capacitors, diodes, star GND, fuses, slow start-up.)
Yeah, grounding is my next great challenge. So many different opinions out there. I'm using a kit with 3 PCB's. Per the diagram, I have one PS board and two amp boards. The two common wires from my two transformers are going in the one GND connector on the AC side, but, there is another GND connector on the DC side. I'm assuming I'll run a wire from the DC GND to the chassis GND, and then run one wire each to the power GND on each of the two amp boards.

What I can't decide what to do is with the rest of the grounding. IN and OUT on each PCB each have a corresponding GND. I'm thinking of running a wire from each of those to the star, with a smaller guage wire from the OUT GND and even smaller from the IN GND. But, then, I've also read to connect all of the input GND's before home-running them to the chassis GND. Or, would I isolate the signal grounds to their own "star" not on the chassis.
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Old 14th August 2014, 07:25 PM   #10
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#######IN and OUT on each PCB each have a corresponding GND.

Here GND must be interpreted as RETURN and should not be connected chassis or GND.

In my diagram you can see two chassis connections. One close to the AC entrance. The other between PSU and AMPs.
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