Hi! I am looking for recommendations for an assembled inexpensive amp (chip or otherwise). It doesn't have to be in a box. I'd use it for a small PC-speaker sized system so 10-20 "real" watts per channel is adequate. 12 VDC or laptop-adaptor for power is an option as I have a lead-acid battery lurking in a corner and spare power supplies. I know there is a bunch of cheap stuff on Ebay, AliExpress, etc but I am confused.
Please don't suggest I try to build anything. If the Soldermizer were to dare to attempt any operations with tiny SMD it would place the very fabric of space-time in jeopardy
That dire warning aside, I am competent (?) to (say) solder on the power connections.
Please don't suggest I try to build anything. If the Soldermizer were to dare to attempt any operations with tiny SMD it would place the very fabric of space-time in jeopardy
That dire warning aside, I am competent (?) to (say) solder on the power connections.
Hi,
FWIW for PC speaker systems you will do a lot better just
buying the complete active speaker package, especially
if on low total budget. Having said that trying to biuld
a PC sized hifi system any better is doomed to failure.
The PC bods are very adept at using active features, including
EQ and active bass management, most builders simply are not.
rgds, sreten.
FWIW for PC speaker systems you will do a lot better just
buying the complete active speaker package, especially
if on low total budget. Having said that trying to biuld
a PC sized hifi system any better is doomed to failure.
The PC bods are very adept at using active features, including
EQ and active bass management, most builders simply are not.
rgds, sreten.
TDA7492+19V supply
I've had good luck with two of these so far, purchased them for clients for use with their desktop systems. They're pretty good, very clean and detailed sound, with adequate power for most speakers. No failures so far, and it's all built, assembled and ready to go.
Don't be dissuaded by the many who would criticize these units without ever listening to them - they really are very decent little amps and handily meet ot surpass most AV receivers for sound quality.
2 x 50Watt Class D Audio Amplifier TDA7492 19V Adapter | eBay
If the link doesn't show up properly, search on ebay for Sure Electronics, TDA7492+19V supply
I would go for the one with the supply, I had a difficult time finding the proper size adaptor for the first one I bought. For 5 quid extra, the 19V supply is dandy.
Enjoy!
I've had good luck with two of these so far, purchased them for clients for use with their desktop systems. They're pretty good, very clean and detailed sound, with adequate power for most speakers. No failures so far, and it's all built, assembled and ready to go.
Don't be dissuaded by the many who would criticize these units without ever listening to them - they really are very decent little amps and handily meet ot surpass most AV receivers for sound quality.
2 x 50Watt Class D Audio Amplifier TDA7492 19V Adapter | eBay
If the link doesn't show up properly, search on ebay for Sure Electronics, TDA7492+19V supply
I would go for the one with the supply, I had a difficult time finding the proper size adaptor for the first one I bought. For 5 quid extra, the 19V supply is dandy.
Enjoy!
.
<< Please don't suggest I try to build anything...with tiny SMD >>
Well, I'm going to say it anyway.
Of course you're right, only the truly dedicated (read: gluttons for punishment) build with surface mount devices. But fortunately for we mere mortals surface mount is not the only option Real chips--I mean the ones with legs--are being pumped out by the factories even as we speak.
So take a look at a circuit. What could it hurt? The circuit diagram for the LM1875 is on page two of the data sheet, which is here:
http://www.ti.com/lit/gpn/lm1875
But I'm posting the same circuit below for quick reference. Just in case you might think it's worth a thought.
.
<< Please don't suggest I try to build anything...with tiny SMD >>
Well, I'm going to say it anyway.
Of course you're right, only the truly dedicated (read: gluttons for punishment) build with surface mount devices. But fortunately for we mere mortals surface mount is not the only option Real chips--I mean the ones with legs--are being pumped out by the factories even as we speak.
So take a look at a circuit. What could it hurt? The circuit diagram for the LM1875 is on page two of the data sheet, which is here:
http://www.ti.com/lit/gpn/lm1875
But I'm posting the same circuit below for quick reference. Just in case you might think it's worth a thought.
.
Attachments
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<< I am competent (?) to (say) solder on the power connections. >>
The trick is to use flux. The flux core in the solder is not enough, you need real flux. The general purpose flux sold by Radio Shack is fine. PS their power transformers are something of a best kept secret.
Full Disclosure: no I don't get a cut.
.
<< I am competent (?) to (say) solder on the power connections. >>
The trick is to use flux. The flux core in the solder is not enough, you need real flux. The general purpose flux sold by Radio Shack is fine. PS their power transformers are something of a best kept secret.
Full Disclosure: no I don't get a cut.
.
This one is reputedly better sounding
Amazon.com: SMSL SA-36A PRO 2* 20W TPA3118D2DAP Amp Stereo Digital Amplifier + Power Adapter, by Gemini Doctor: Electronics
there's also a sizable thread on it here... somewhere 🙂
Amazon.com: SMSL SA-36A PRO 2* 20W TPA3118D2DAP Amp Stereo Digital Amplifier + Power Adapter, by Gemini Doctor: Electronics
there's also a sizable thread on it here... somewhere 🙂
This is my first build. I got a USD 11 TDA7492 and spare parts. Works OK on my Bateman imitation sound bar.
Thank you! I eat a lot of fresh fruit and the plastic containers are good for storing small items. Not so small that they fall through the vent holes mind you! Also as shown, they are suitable for my half-a$$ed prototypes. If I were ever to settle upon a design, even to put them in a respectable box would be beyond my budget inclinations, as very likely also my technical skills. Even to fit audio and power terminals and jacks is a bit of a challenge for lazy types like me 
This "design" would easily be stuck inside a speaker enclosure, at least one more substantial than a cardboard box. My current build has the advantage of not having any controls whatsoever.
This "design" would easily be stuck inside a speaker enclosure, at least one more substantial than a cardboard box. My current build has the advantage of not having any controls whatsoever.
I don't think anything exists that hasn't been used as an enclosure. Mixing bowls, pie tins, the (in)famous Altoids box, tin cans (eat more soup), you name it.
All of which are, indeed, something of a pain to lay out get running, but not really much more so than a 2 or 3 hundred dollar anodized cast aluminum enclosure. In any case an el cheepO "step drill bit" from eBay/Amazon does very well drilling thin metal, although with Altoids boxes the hot ticket seems to be a hand held paper punch.
All of which are, indeed, something of a pain to lay out get running, but not really much more so than a 2 or 3 hundred dollar anodized cast aluminum enclosure. In any case an el cheepO "step drill bit" from eBay/Amazon does very well drilling thin metal, although with Altoids boxes the hot ticket seems to be a hand held paper punch.
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