Nuuk said:
Greg, it is the input impedance of the amp which should be (theoretically) ten times the output impedance of the preamp (or source it there is no preamp).
The DC blocking cap does not affect the input impedance.
I meant that if you decrease the input impedance of the amp that much then you have to increase the input cap that many times so that the frequence range of the amp stays the same.
arold19 said:Today, I tried my gainclone and all seem to be Ok..... but I have 39.5 V at the output of my power supply, on the data sheet, the max seem to by 42 v..... so now, It is Ok to have about 40 V or it is dangerous ???
As long as it's gonna work it's not dangerous.
I was using those both for stereo and monoblocks. The current version of monoblocks will feature 300VA Plitrons. I like the smaller size beter (not soundwise, but for the appearance).
It also seems like using separate PS per channels improves imaging and is probably better overall.
It also seems like using separate PS per channels improves imaging and is probably better overall.
(not soundwise, but for the appearance).
can you detect any difference between the 300va and the 400va (soundwise).......?
I could detect difference between 220VA and 400VA. Didn't try 300VA yet.
My 220VA toroid had electrostatic shield, so this might affecting things too, but overall the sound from smaller one was smoother, but it seemed to lack a bit of air (or extention) that the bigger toroid offerd. The smaller sounded a bit lean and too polite. It wasn't bad, but it seemed like 400VA was a better overall choice. But maybe because of the shield on the smaller one the 400VA seemed to show a bit of harshness in comparison.
But as long as you are not comparing directly, you like both of them Which one was better, hard to say, but my partner preferred the bigger one.
My 220VA toroid had electrostatic shield, so this might affecting things too, but overall the sound from smaller one was smoother, but it seemed to lack a bit of air (or extention) that the bigger toroid offerd. The smaller sounded a bit lean and too polite. It wasn't bad, but it seemed like 400VA was a better overall choice. But maybe because of the shield on the smaller one the 400VA seemed to show a bit of harshness in comparison.
But as long as you are not comparing directly, you like both of them Which one was better, hard to say, but my partner preferred the bigger one.
Since I'm using 400VA toroid, I had to go as high as 6A on fuse to avoid blowing them at turn on, because of high inrush current toroids generate
5 or 10ohm Thermistor in series with primary will fix the thing...unless it's going to degrade the sound in any way.
B.
I'd rather use a bigger fuse, it might work better too (soundwise)
At what stage does a bigger fuse become as useless as a protection device, as having no fuse at all?
Nuuk said:
At what stage does a bigger fuse become as useless as a protection device, as having no fuse at all?
It will protect, but for a bigger fault.
Nuuk said:
At what stage does a bigger fuse become as useless as a protection device, as having no fuse at all?
Answer:
When the whole thing burns and the fuse is intact.
Toroids are real fuse blowers, because of their big inrush current at power on.
I use a 10ohm/10watt resistor in series with one of the primary wires, and it works fine.
On my 384VA toroid I use a 2.5A fuse.
Without the resistor I would have to use more than 4A so that it doesn't blow at power on.
And that's no protection at all.
Nuuk said:
At what stage does a bigger fuse become as useless as a protection device, as having no fuse at all?
And what kind of protection do you really need?
I imagine bigger fuse is still useful as a protection against short circuit, and this is all I need.
With stereo amp, I'm using two bridges, shared by both channels. I never used separate bridges per channels (except for monoblocks).
a 10ohm/10watt resistor in series with one of the primary wires, and it works fine.
This effectively destroys the transformer regulation - you are more than doubling the heat losses on the primary side.
I find the sound contribution of fuses or PS switches unacceptable and none of my equipment has ever been fused. Of course i don't manufacture for other people, have no pets or small children and my wife is smart enough to not get anywhere near (this probably explains how she still survives).
Of course this is all quite mild. I once lived in a house with a 'dedicated' unfused line for the audio 'live' wire and the neutral was supplied courtesy of the central heating pipes. It probably broke dosens of electrical code rules but the sound was incredible
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